January 1902  
Wed 1st Jan 1902

Note: This diary only reached me at end of January. I am copying the monthy's entries from note book.

New Year Day, second year of 20th Century.
Murray much better. He certainly has not got "blackwater" as he feared. Very late home and slept here (Ft. Nkala).
Breakfast generally about 11 am, lunch 4 pm and so on.
It seems quite strange after the regular hours of my own camp - the cattle kraal here is half way up the koppie & is approached by a track covered with huge rocks & steep as a precipace.
It must be bad for stock. One of my donkeys has cut his leg on a rock & I have ordered that my two donkeys are to be left below at the Mission station. Have strongly advised Harris to make kraal at bottom of hill.

2 Jan 1902

Breakfast late as usual. Heavy rain during the night & water poured through my roof.
Sloped about camp feeling horribly lazy!
Murray is almost fit again and speaks of returning to the Falls. Rain in evening, looks like another wet night.

3 Jan 1902

Rain poured in on me in bed again. Woke with slight fever, due no doubt to irregular hours and want of excercise.
Must make a move to get back to my camp.
Boys arrived here from V. Falls with stores etc. for Fort. No trade goods for me yet.

4 Jan 1902

Murray left today for the Falls. Harris & I went for a ride in the evening.
Sent out police to hunt but they got nothing & fired 6 shots.
Harris & I start tomorrow for my camp.
Wrote to Gielgud.

5 Jan 1902

Got boys & donkey away in the morning. Harris & I rode after them about noon and overtook them near Muga R.
We went on & camped for night at first kraal beyond Muga.
Harris has 10 police with him. I have borrowed 60 yards of limbo for my camp from Harris, to be repaid when our own supply arrives. Bought food & grain at night camp. I am sleeping in Harris's tent & have given mine to Bob (interpreter) as rain looks like coming.

6 Jan 1902

Heard lions roaring during the night & was out many times having the fires made up - Got away about 7 am & came to Mtenka's for lunch. Fired some shots at kudu but got none. Harris shot a pala ewe. On again early & came to Kaiyingu's for night. Slept in rest hut.
Kaiyingu came out to visit us with tremendous following & was very civil. Harris & I went to kraal to see a sick child & gave it medicine.
Mrangwa & Dick both sick, have remained behind at a kraal on way.

7 Jan 1902

Rather late in making a start. Came on to Muyanga's. Could find no-one to take us across river & no paddle, so I got into canoe & with great difficulty paddled across with my hands. Found no men, only women on island & found a paddle.
On returning to Harris, found carriers and police had arrived. Harris & I crossed to camp leaving boys to bring on kit etc.
H's police & 2 horses remain at rest hut. My donkeys were brought to camp. Found everything right in camp. Harris very tired.
He is evidently not accustomed to the kind of travelling one does in this country.

8 Jan 1902

It is very curious how late newcomers to the country like to sleep in the morning here. Harris would sleep till noon, I think, if not disturbed. I have had to postpone breakfast till almost 9:30; before 8am is my usual time.
As Dick & Mrangwa have not turned up yet, I have sent two boys back to look for them with medicine.
A man from Sigariatombwi's made a complaint of wife stealing against a native of neighbouring kraal.
Muyanga came to camp to see Mr. Harris and brought a large present. I explained to Muyanga that Mr. Harris is in charge of people on other side of Kafue.
Temp: Max 80, Min 68

9 Jan 1902

Hunted with Harris in morning & did not get a shot. Saw Zebra mare & foal. Harris was very tired after about 2 hrs, wanted to come home & we did so.
Boys sent yesterday returned with Dick & Mragwa, who are both suffering from fever.
Muyanga brought one of his people, Mkunyanka & charged him with having seriously assaulted Difuba of Mtanti's; also with general disobedience & quarelsomeness. I handed case over to Harris who ordered man to be detained while enquiries were made as to Difuba's injuries. I sent two N.M.'s to Mtanti's for this purpose. Spent rest of day quietly in camp. H. greatly appreciates our tomatoes of which we have any quantity. He has no fresh vegetables yet at Nkala.
Mail should have arrived today. The Kacempa's runners are to bring it from Nkala.
Temp: Max 82, Min 69

10 Jan 1902

Boys returned from Mtanti's with Tafula & the injured man, Difuba. The damage was not so great as I thought but quite bad enough. Hip bone evidently badly bruised. Tafula & Difuba both corroborate Muyanga's evidence & Harris ordered Mkunyanka to be flogged & taken to Nkala to work for a bit. Boy was flogged - 12 strokes and took them without a groan. After it was finished, Muyanga seized the sjambok & gave him a good half dozen "on his own".
I did not interfere as I was glad to see this first evidence that Muyanga can act as an induna.
Wrote letters during greater part of day. Report to Gielgud for Dec: Slight attack of fever in evening.
Feeling frightfully tired with no apparent cause.
Temp: Max 83, Min 68

11 Jan 1902

Harris's police across the river have let their prisoner Mkunyanka escape.
Sgt Kandusi reduced to Cpl in consequence. Harris sent across to Muyanga for 4 carriers to go to Nkala with him. I am rather better today but full of fever pains.
Sent off boys to Nkala with mail in afternoon. This is not my regular fortnightly mail so only sent official letters & did not write home.
Wrote to Davey asking him to come whenever he can & visit me.
Temp: Max 74, Min 68

12 Jan 1902

Boys arrived from Nkala with mail. Letter from Coryndon. Patrol to N. of Kafue postponed till dry season.
C (Coryndon) says he is in communication with Milton about supplying B.N.P. to Hook instead of Matabele & offers me commission in B.N.P., 17/- a day with rations & quarters. I would very much prefer to be on Civil side of Gov. service. Can't forsee very cosy prospects for officers of B.N.P.
Letter from Worthington. After many applications to him, at last he lets me know what I owe him for duty etc. on my rifle £2,5/-.
He says he is not well and fears he may have to leave the country. Invites me to visit him at Kalomo whenever I can.
Some of our rade goods are at Kalomo & are to be sent to Nkala first opportunity. No home letters.
One of Harris's police comes in & reported being stabbed by a native - drunk - who lives on an island below Muyanga.
Alleges no cause. Can't imagine why police boy did not go for the native - he had a rifle & ammunition. Tale sounds fishy to me.
Boy has bad cut in forehead. Harris had intended leaving tomorrow for Nkala but has postponed leaving on account of this affair.
In evening, H & I went up Snipe Kei with guns but saw nothing.
Temp: Max 79, Min 68

13 Jan 1902

We made an unsuccessful attempt this morning to capture Shindarwa, who is said to have stabbed police boy yesterday.
I sent my police early to conceal themselves along this bank of river opposite kraal, while H (Harris) took his boys to do the same on W. bank. After allowing time for boys to get into place, I slipped down with one police boy in canoe. The man's hut is on a very rocky & wooded island & is only about 10 yds from the river bank. I was getting out of canoe below hut when I heard H. shouting an order to his boys. I heard voices at the hut, ran to it & found no-one.
People had got alarm & escaped from under my very hand. Hot porridge was lying where people had been eating.
Followed spoor as far as I could but lost it in rocks & maze of small bushy islands, separated by small branches of river. Found spears at hut & on spoor of runaway. Crossed to Harris's side & after considerable difficulty found him. He had moved to another kraal, thinking the one we were at was deserted.
On way home, Harris shot 2 duck with Martini, very good shots. Last night a wild cat got into my fowl house & killed 16 fowls. I am afraid to put down strychnine as dogs & cats are always certain to take it.
H's police have managed to recapture Mkunyanka who had escaped from them. H. leaves tomorrow morning. I have lent him a side of bacon, 2 llbs Nectar tea, a bottle of gin & of whisky & have also given him a grid iron, half pound tobacco, bootlaces & a lot of seeds for his garden.
Temp: Max 80, Min 68

14 Jan 1902

Last night I had doors ofn hen houses strongly closed and no more damage has been done by the wild cat.
Harris went off after breakfast. I crossed the river with him. I have lent him my Gov. .303 Lee S/ my own cover. H. has promised to let me have them whenever I require.
I today paid Mjimi, Tabangaxa, Matshasha for 6 month service, £12 each up to Dec 21st. They were absent when I paid other boys. Boys very slack at afternoon parade.
A donkey dropped a colt this afternoon - big but very weedy.
The more I think of it, the less inclined do I feel to take a commission in the B.N.P. I would for many things to be under N.W.R. administration - but on civil, not military side.
Drilling niggers does not appeal to me.
Temp: Max 80, Min 69

15 Jan 1902

Hunted in morning up Koppie on E. path & shot 2 two reed buck, both running shots, about 60 yds in long grass. Back at 9am. Sonlomola came in answer to my summons sent on 4 Dec. He denies charges of raiding by his people & lays counter charge against Mfuya. I could only say I would enquire into the matter when next in his district. S. complained that 2 of his wives have left him & are at Mtcheba's & asked me to get them back. I refused as women went of their accord. He proceeded to weep, said he was sick & had no-one to cook or carry water for him. I maintained my point however that Gov.is not a matrimonial agency. Penkeli came with him. Mlumbuchi & con (???) of Mtanti assisted me.
Sent boy to summon people from Penkeli who traded on credit. They have come in. Cleaned my revolver. Wrote to George congratulations on his engagement.
Temp: Max 85, Min 69

16 Jan 1902

Yesterday I spoke to Sonlomola about Fairbank & asked if heard of his death. He has heard that Tshipindi was killed by some natives away to the E. with an arrow. Tshipindi had burned the grain at the kraal where he was murdered. Two men from Penkeli's who sold me grain on credit brought their "tickets" and were paid.
Mjamba (???) returned from Nkala with mails - nothing except parcel from B'wayo for G, & a much delayed letter from Garbutt for me.
Put up a big bit of new fence round my camp. 3 of Penkeli's people came in & reported having been underpaid by Grey's people for journey to Nuna Neson (???).
This seems so improbable that I told them to bring me their calico. Also said that Grey is coming here soon & I would ask him about it.
If I found them lying, they would be punished; if speaking truth, they would be paid in full. Upon this, they agreed that they were mistaken, having really been paid in full. I promised a flogging if this game is tried again.
Temp: Max 87, Min 67

17 Jan 1902

Hunted in morning in hills E. of Camp. Shot a big warthog male & sent him to camp slung on a pole by two natives I had with me.
Went on with Vela to look for Eland as my cooking pot has come to an end. Saw more big pig but would not shoot & was rewarded 100 yds on by finding a small herd of Eland. Stalked to 100 yds and hit a bull through shoulders. It seemed to me to run off with the others & running after them, I hit another, thinking it was my wounded bull. Found first lying dead & followed second but it evidently was only slightly hit - through flesh of neck I think for I saw it going strong and it had lost only a few drops of blood. Gave it up and got back to camp about noon, after Vela had lost himself twice. He is useless as a guide on the veldt. My compass alone saved us from really being lost as sun was behind clouds. Sent boys for meat & they got back to camp with it about 6pm having been caught in a heavy storm.
Prepared mail to leave tomorrow. Wrote to Coryndon saying I would much prefer work on civil side of Gov.: also that my arrangements must be subservient to Gielgud's. Wrote to D.C. Kalomo asking him to forward Matshasha with N.W.R. Mail leaves to B'wayo.
Wrote to Gielgud & enclosed copy of Coryndon's letter.
Dick is down with bad go of fever.
Traded a lot of grain from Penkeli's.. Paid for last ticket for grain bought on credit. Paid Jack (kitchen boy) a cesiba (???) for month's work.
Temp: Max 83, Min 70

18 Jan 1902

Wrote to Mother telling her of Coryndon's offer. Wrote to Garbutt (B'wayo). Maluci & Manguba left for Nkala with mails. With them went Matshasha for B'wayo.
Gave him 12 yds calico - much more than enough to buy food on the road. He is to travel all the way with mail boys from N. W. Rhodesia.
Working on new fence round camp.
Temp: Max 83, Min 70

19 Jan 1902

Working on new fence. My pointer pup has got her right eye badly damaged, I fear blinded, by a fool of a boy who threw a stick at her. Of course he did not mean to hurt her like this. When I discovered it, the boy was only saved from an unholy thrashing by the fact that he was on guard.
Muyanga brought present of pumpkins in return for meat I sent him. I spoke to him about Shinolanwa (???) who cut his head.
He has come back to his hut but is ready to bolt at the slightest sign of alarm. Muyanga tells me that Bob - the Basuto - was in it too & Shinolanwa was only defending himself. Bob & Keno had demanded beer & after drinking, ordered the man to carry some to the camp.
The man objected & it appears the wound was inflicted Keno's rifle in the struggle & not by an assegai.
Muloa came in today to pay his respects. Gave Jack an old pyjama jacket.
Temp: Max 80, Min 68

20 Jan 1902

I was wakened in the night by a row in police camp & on going out found that our friend the wild cat had again managed to get into the fowl house & had killed 3 fowls.
The boys however had heard it and, surrounding it, had caught the brute and killed it. In doing so, two boys got badly bitten & scratched and I am rather afraid of blod poisoning. Lots of carbolic may prevent it.
Monatshianda paid a visit & sleeps here tonight.
Paid off 2 workers from Muloa's & Muyanga's 4 yds each for 2 months work.
Boys working on new fence. Rain in evening and really looks like a wet night.
Temp: Max 79, Min 69

21 Jan 1902

Sent off boy to ask Penkeli for 2 work boys.
Boys bitten by wild cat are getting on all right. No fear of poisoning I think. Rain all night.
Feeling awfully lonely & depressed. I would go on a hunting trip only I don't want to miss George Gray & I expect Davey to turn up any day.
Sowed more seeds in garden. Tomatoes and native pumpkins seem to be our only success this year. I don't know why. I give the garden lots of attention. Completed new fence round camp. It is much stronger than the old one & made of seasoned wood.
I do look forward to the mail which should arrive tomorrow, just to persuade me that I am not the only white man left on earth.

Temp: Max 83, Min 68

22 Jan 1902

Fruitless hunt in morning, through "home" guen pig vlei (vlei: a marshy place), then Eland Kei, then on far side, round to lift through hills and home by E Kie at noon. Saw a few 'pala for a second as they bolted.
Two police, Tshibi & Tabangane were reported by Nkunzi for refusing to sweep camp & insubordination.
They pleaded guilty & I gave both 10 days hard labour to include daily sweeping of camp. This is Tshibi's second offense
of a similar nature and I fined him in addition 5/- to be deducted from pay in Bulawayo & warned him that the next time means flogging.
Took on two boys from Penkeli's to work for 2 months in camp.
Drilled boys in afternoon.
Mail not arrived. The only advantage of my disappointment is that now I have something to look forward to tomorrow.
Heavy rain last night & my hut leaked a little but not enough to bother me much. No doubt about Trilby's eye being blinded. What a beastly shame it is.
Temp: Max 81, Min 71

23 Jan 1902

Uneventful day in camp. Boys have not yet returned from Nkala with mail. This is the sixth day.
Visited G.'s & took a tin of Keating's powder to dust my lion skin.
Parade in afternoon. Heavy storms in evening.
Temp: Max 86, Min 66

24 Jan 1902

Hunted in morn, S. of camp, saw some waterbuck but got no chance. In afternoon, I laid out direction for road to run from Camp to river crossing. It means a lot of chopping. In evening, Grey turned up on way to B'wayo. He has a mule, but walks and lets boys ride so as to march fast. Jolly having Grey here but he says he must go on tomorrow. He has had great trouble with floods & swamps.
Sat late talking. Grey's boys arrived late but I had fitted him out with clothes etc. & made him comfortable.
Mail came in - nothing from S. of Zambesi. Fancy mail has been stopped by flood.
Harris returns bottle of whisky & says Worthington fears no wagon can come up with our trade goods. Now at Kalomo. Cariun (???) again. This delay in getting trade goods is sickening. I can't feed people on grass.
Much disappointed to get no letter from home - there are so many matters I want to hear about.
Temp: Max 86, Min 66

25 Jan 1902

Breakfast a little earlier than usual. Grey showed me his maps stretching into Congo F. State.
The amount of country traversed by him & prospectors is enormous. Grey paid off his carriers from Muloa's - he had taken them on to come to this camp only & as I knew there would be a delay in getting enough boys from Muyanga & Grey wanted to get on, I lent him 4 native camp boys & 2 donkeys to go as far as Kaiyingu's & return tomorrow.
After lunch, at which he showed me an excellent method of eating tomatoes as a fruit with sugar & milk, Grey went off.
I already had donkeys crossed & 2 police boys to go with them. river is very big & crossing Grey's mule & kit took some time.
He eventually got away about 3pm.
I was glad to be able to give him some few things, meat, soaps, whisky,tobacco, jam etc. to take him to his store at Nkala.
He has promised to let me have some (???) if he can spare it from his store. Grey was keen for me to go to Nkala with him, but I thought it better to stay here as there are several things requiring my attention; so I only crossed the river with him & saw him off.
He expects to be up here in about 2 1/ months. I forgot to mention yesterday that Harris told me Davey's horse is dead. He says "fly" but I don't think the horse was sick long enough for that. Boys started cutting out new road to river today. It will be a long business.
Grey has left his revolver - Webley - here to await his return.
Temp: Max 84, Min 70

26 Jan 1902

Meant to hunt but rain was falling in the morning & I gave it up.
Sent out 2 boys, one of whom returned in the late evening with a pala ewe.
Induna Mola & people from Siamabola brought in presents of grain & pumpkins.
Wrote to Davey & enclosed £97, 10/- & pay sheets for payment of the escort at his place.
Wrote to Leslie Boase.
Boys & donkeys sent with Grey to Kaiyingu's returned.
In evening I went to Snipe Kie with gun & rifle - saw no birds but shot a duiker on way home through guen.
At dinner, I felt something crawling up my leg, I caught it & killed it between the folds of my trousers, holding it away from my leg.
It was a tarantula. Great luck not getting bitten.
P.W.A's birthday (Patrick William Anderson - brother).

Temp: Max 87, Min 69

27 Jan 1902

Sent off Mpini, Tangama & Mazivendena (Cpl in charge) with letter & packet of money & pay sheets to Silver King Mine.
Warned them to take great care of the packet, deliver it to no-one on the road, only to a white man at the camp.
Mkabwi (induna between Monatshianda and Mtenginya) came in to pay respects. He made a charge of raiding against Kapondula but on hearing that that affair occured before our arrival here, I refused to interfere.
Muyanga came across with a complaint against a man whose name he had forgotten, of having stolen a young woman. I discovered that this occured 2 years ago. Muyanga has been about the camp almost every day since we came 18 months ago & has never spoken of it. I again refused to hear the case & choked off Muyanga for his folly.
Took parade in afternoon.
Temp: Max 77, Min 68

28 Jan 1902

Hunted in morning up E. side of Mwenga. Home by path. Grass awfull. Got a very hard shot at waterbuck & hit. Followed spoor showing very little lood for miles & only gave up when big storm came & rain washed out spoor.
Got a regular soaking - very cold wind & rain. Parade in afternoon.
Boys returned from Mtanti's whom I sent this morning to ask for carriers to bring goods from Kalomo.
Finished Conan Doyle's "Great Boer War".

Temp: Max 79, Min 70

29 Jan 1902

Dull day in camp. Melusi, a subinduna of Siamajogo, visited me with usual present.
A native brought note from some white man at Monatiabenda's(???) - I can't make out the signature. Complains that people from Bulibuli's who had agreed to carry to Kaiyingu's have come back.
There are two white men who have come from North via Kasonsa's(???), Moshinra's(???) etc. Native says they are coming here tomorrow.
There is amost annoying series of pillfering going on in our store & I can't find out the culprit. Today I find 2 llbs of Mazawatti tea to have disappeared. I can't stand sentry over the place and there is no way of making & securing door.
Wrote to Natalie.
Tafuba with 3 men & 5 from Mtanti's came in as carriers to go to Kalomo. I told them I must have 20 at least & sent them back to get them. An old man from Muyanga's whom I treated the other day for neuralgia came to report that he is much better.
Temp: Max 81, Min 68

30 Jan 1902

Hunted all morning in hills E. of camp. Again no success.
Saw a baboon at 100 yds in strange light which made it look like a cheetah. Shot it, I am sorry to say.
Natives with me gladly took it for meat however.
In afternoon, I examined cutting a new path which has almost reached river, & gave directions for a few changes. Path is very nearly straight.
Out hunting today, I saw lots of spoor of yesterday & 2 days ago.
Evidently the game is there but hard to find in bush.
Got caught in tremendous storm & came back soaked from head to feet.
The white men mentioned yesterday have not turned up.

Temp: Max 84, Min 67

31 Jan 1902

Indunas came with people to carry from Kalomo & I selected 24.
Sent Tom to hunt. Saw koodoo but got no shot. In afternoon, boys arrived with letter & loads from Gielgud who is at Kalomo on his way back! Great news! He tells me to send police & carriers at once to Kalomo for trade goods. He may perhaps have to go South again to the Bubi & if so, won't be back for 2 months. Hope this won't be so.
My leave is granted on full pay & G. has asked that my pay be raised to £300. No reply to this yet. G. has brought up a light waggon for donkey which will come from Falls as soon as roads permit. G. has very kindly sent me a fine Kodak camera & a medicine case; it is good of him. He also has brought 2 deck chairs & big basins. All sorts of stores are on waggon. G. sent me this diary in wich I have now entered up to date copying from note book.

Temp: Max 83, Min 69

 
February 1902  
1 Feb 1902

Early this morning, I sent off police (6) & carriers, all national, to Kalomo. Boy left for Nkala with mail.
Carriers who arrived yesterday with G.'s things left for their homes.
Camp is now very quiet with so few people about.
Boys from G. yesterday brought a big dog - not pure bred, hard to locate - something of Bloodhound and Mastiff.
His name is "Jim"; he looks half-starved. Boys have lost another dog on the road. I do hope G. won't be long in turning up.
In the afternoon, Sikomo came in with a man from Bulibuli, both bringing presents of meal. I spoke to them about Bulibuli's people having refused to bring Grey across river, & of having deserted a few days ago, from the two white men at Monatshianda's. Sikomo agreed that both events had occured.
I refused to accept Bulibuli's present.
In evening, went round by Snipe Kie with shotgun rifle. Saw only one duiker at which I missed a difficult shot.
Have given orders for two of a guard instead of three tomorrow as I have so few police people. Had G.'s things which came today taken to his room.
By todays mail I sent a letter to Natalie, Tom A., & Leslie Boase. Also ordered three rolls of films for my camera from London, B'wayo.

Temp: Max 80, Min 63

2 Feb 1902

Hunted in morning in hills across Mwenga & home by E. path. Saw 1 duiker which I shot.
Boy arrived in camp with note from the two white men who wrote to me a few days ago.
Again, I can't make out the signature. Note gives a few details of desertion by Bulibuli's people.
A book, "The lost American" was also sent, it had been found at Msbima's (???). I remember long ago having the book thrown out!
The cat came back indeed! Msbima said the book came from here. Worked in garden in evening. Grass, seeds "inzala" getting bad again.

Temp: Max 85, Min 69

3 Feb 1902

Monasiboba came in with a man from Simoluba's to pay his respects. Simoluba was prevented by sickness from coming himself.
By Monasiboba's request, I sent him some embrocation, as his chest is giving him trouble. Gave Monasiboba a pair of socks as he told me he has boots and no socks.
Bongalo who went to B'wayo with G. arrived in camp beautifully arrayed and much influenced by the wonders of town.
Sowed onions in the garden. Fished in Kafue in evening but never raised a fish.
Rearranged official correspondance in office. No rain for 3 days and sky looks like a spell of dry weather.

Temp: Max 85, Min 69

4 Feb 1902

Hunted all morning in "home" guen as far as the Ngolubine(???) and got a duiker. Saw a herd of hartebeest and followed a long way, but they were always down wind & did not give me a shot. Wind is frightfully shifty, coming from every direction.
Saw a good lot of of spoor, chiefly yesterday's, and heard zebra but did not see them. Home about noon. There is evidently lots of game about but it seems impossible to get at it.
Tshibiyabi tells me there are a lot of geese & duck every morning on river. I think I shall try them tomorrow morning.
Muyanga sent me a present of 2 bream caught in trap in Mwenga. No rain.

Temp: Max 84, Min 69

5 Feb 1902

Went on river in canoe with Tshibiyabi & got 2 spur wing geese; knocked over another but lost it among small islands.
Mlumlemebi(???) brought presents of pumpkins; gave him wine.
Boys returned from Silver King Mine with acknowledgment of cash and completed pay sheets.
Also private letter from Davey who hopes to come here this month. His mail boys passed on way to Nkala.
Very slight shower this afternoon.
Mail should have arrived today but has not. I ought to have a big mail this time as no home letters and no papers have come for two mails.

Temp: Max 90, Min 69

6 Feb 1902

Hunted in morning. Heard lion roaring to N.E. as I started and went in that direction on very small chance of seeing it.
Shot a goose flying at 100 yds with rifle after missing once.
In guen, came on herd of Hartebeeste and shot first that gave me a chance - a cow - without waiting for a bull, as we want meat.
On way home, shot a duiker ram which I really should not have fired at as we now had meat.
However, I did it almost instinctively as the buck bolted.
Back in camp 9:30 am.
Mail arrived from Nkala. Only one home letter for me, from Barbara (Barbara M Anderson - sister), enclosing one from Jean (Jean Teaman Anderson - sister) - dates 15 Nov!
Letter from Gielgud - has gone to Manjolo, also from Munro, now Secty of Wankies Co.
Grey sends on loan 204 yds calico.
Harris is enquiring into "Bolis" conduct in Shimolabwa (???) affair. More complaints of native seizing (???).

Temp: Max 92, Min 67

7 Feb 1902

Turned out store and rearranged it. It is wonderful what a lot of dirt manages to accumulate.
Had meat put out in sun as Grey said that it is a good thing for preventing it going bad.
Police have been remudding the walls of their huts which have been a good deal damaged by heavy rains.
A few rain showers during the day. Heavy storm passed but gave us a little of its rain.
Wrote to P.W.A.(brother) and to Munro at Wankei.

Had most excellent rissoles of minced goose at dinner tonight with fried tomatoes.

Temp: Max 84, Min 69

8 Feb 1902

Feeling rather off colour today, something wrong inside.
People came in from an Induna called Siamajogo, with present of grain.
The kraal is on Kafue, this side, some way below Kaiyingu's.
I gave them calico. Boys finished mudding the huts & began clearing grass off new path to river.
Remudded grain bin. Shot a hawk over camp. Heavy shower during afternoon.
Rather an uninteresting day. Wrote to Mrs Heuston.

Temp: Max 85, Min 65

9 Feb 1902

Hunted in morning E. in hills & home by the path. Shot a duiker. Also hit a pig, through the lungs judging by blood, but spoor was so slight & grass so thick that an hours hard searching produced nothing.
Still feeling seedy. Extraordinary activity in my "innards".
Examined road which is being made to river. Issued 9 new bandoliers to police in place of old & torn ones. Drilled police in afternoon.
An Induna called Shapela from down river from Simayjo(???) came in with a present to pay his respects. Gave him calico. People brought present from Penkeli - pumpkins. Sent Penkeli 3 yds calico.
Greys return for carriers settling Penkeli. I can now afford to pay these presents. Formerly I had ??? to buy grain, the calico intended for Indunas.
Davey's mail boys passed going N. I wrote to him.

Temp: Max 85, Min 67

10 Feb 1902

Went to new path to river & pegged out another stretch.
Messenger brought letter from Davey, N.C. Co reporting alleged murder of native woman by Sonkomba.
Charge made by S's late wives now at Mtcheba's.
Induna Tshepepo, charged with seizing a woman & child came in. At first, denied charge and, in end, owned to siezing the child.
He is to be detained here till the woman & child are brought in.
Put "forks" on him to prevent bolting & told his people to hurry back with the woman & child.
"Jim", Gielgud's dog is sick & has disappeared from camp today. Sent boys out to search with no success.
Another case of "Tim" I suppose. Davey sent by his messenger, 2 bottles of sauce, and also asked me to visit him in England during my leave. He tells me he has found large area of lead ore (Kabwe / Broken Hill Mine: this may be the first Western recording of this important deposit, apart from T.G. Davey himself).

Temp: Max 84, Min 70

11 Feb 1902

A note arrived early from Macauley (B.N.P.) saying he would arrive today. Said to order boats for him.
Bought lot of grain from Penkeli's. Went to river to meet M.
First time I have seen him since Coll(ege) days (Glenalmond, Perthshire, Scotland). A good chap. He crossed his police, 15 - & about 70 carriers with loads bound for Kasempa (about 220 km N. of Kafue river crossing at Bulibuli's & c. 350 km N. of Nkala). A white Sgt Major, Mobbs is with him. Macauley has promised to stay over tomorrow.
Mobbs sleeps in tent inside my quad. Macauley insisted on producing champagne which he had brought specially to drink "to old days".
Sent boy to search for "Jim" but with no success. I fear the poor beast has died in the bush or been caught by a leopard or lion.
What awfull luck! G. will be awfully sick. Sat late talking to Macauley.

Temp: Max 84, Min 68

12 Feb 1902

Went to river early & got a duck. On way there, put up a large leopard on path but I had only a shotgun with small shot and the leopard disappeared at once in the bush. Probably he has killed "Jim".
Back to breakfast, Macauley suffering from cold. Mobbs persuaded B.N.P. & I to photograph them. They drill fairly but I think own boys are better.
Muyanga came to see Macauley with a large present. M. paid boys for crossing river yesterday.
Siakwena's people came in and I paid them Grey's present in return for his carriers.
Sent 2 police to Bulibuli to have boats waiting for M., whose carriers went on today. He follows tomorrow.
Sent Mzogozwana to hunt & he got a Hartebeeste cow & calf. Gave everybody meat.
Sat late again talking. Mobbs cut my hair today.

Temp: Max 90, Min 64

13 Feb 1902

Macauley went off this morning after early breakfast. He wanted me to go as far as Muloa's with him but I decided to remain & get the place ready for G. who may turn up anyday. Photoed M. Mobbs on donkey & mule.
M. has insisted on leaving me some cigars.
Siamabobo came in to visit me. Pegged off another stretch of new path to river.
Macauley has lent me "Some Experiences of an Irish R.M." which I am to return to O'Keefe at Kalomo.
In evening, I went up Snipe Kei with shotgun, but still there are no snipe.
The vlei is very little flooded. Last year very little of it was dry at this time.
Finished my first roll of photo films & put another in my camera.
"Jim" has not turned up & I fancy there is no chance now of his being alive.

Temp: Max 88, Min 70

14 Feb 1902

Slept well, which I have not done for a long time. Mess hut is being smeared out, so I fed in the spare hut.
Induna 'Mpondi' paid his first visit, accompanied by Penkeli.
He says his people work now without fear of bad treatment at N.C. Co's mines.
Tshepepi's people brought in the woman Mindenda - the other, Indebi still remains to be brought before Tshepepi is released.
Mindenda was sent across to her husband, Nansanga, on the island, having said she wished to go to him.
Rain came on in afternoon & continued during most of evening. Looks like a wet night.
Mail leaves tomorrow, with letters to Mother, Barbara, P.W.A., Munro & Mrs. Heuston;
I am sending box of tomatoes to Harris, Nkala and book left by Macauley to O'Keefe, Kalomo.

Temp: Max 84, Min 69

15 Feb 1902

Tangama & one native left for Nkala with mails. Hunted all morning till nearly 1 o'clock, E. in hills.
Saw no game. Rain all the time. Got back to camp in horrible state of depression which lasted all day.
Mtanti, son of the late Induna, came in to pay his respects, having acquired name & position of his father.
Gave him Grey's present of calico & also sent Tafula's 2 yds by him.
Lion roaring away to E. in hills before sundown.

Temp: Max 84, Min 69

16 Feb 1902

Pegged out another stretch of new path in morning.
Engaged 4 boys from Penkeli's to work for 2 months in camp. They will learn today duties from 4 boys whose time is up tomorrow.
Siamajogo, Tafula & people from Gaundu came in today. Told his people to send Gaundu to speak to me about Mtchenti's charge against him. In evening, Tabangana & Serivedi returned from Bulibuli's with note from Macauley, Manti who his boy took by mistake. M. reports a good deal of trouble in crossing at Bulibuli's. I had to make the old man a prisoner. Most of the people had bolted in spite of my message. M. also reports charge of theft of a hen from native by one of my boys. Shall enquire into case tomorrow.
Good lot of rain today.

Temp: Max 83, Min 69

17 Feb 1902

Hunted in morning through "home" guen to Eland Kei & in hills at head. Made a rifling shot at bolting duiker.
Came across a herd of Hartebeeste after spooring a long way, & shot a cow - very fat - thinking it was a bull.
Tabangana denies charge of theft, but admits to intention to force sale of skin at a price which did not satisfy owner.
Told T. I would report case to Gielgud.
Paid off 4 boys from Muyanga's 4 yds each for 2 months work. Very heavy storm in late afternoon which I attempted to photograph from shelter of office.
Donkey dropped a very poor looking colt. The cat is evidently about to produce kittens and makes a horrible row. Seems undecided as to a suitable place to perform in & shows keen desire for a lower shelf of my "dressing table" to which selection I distinctly object!

Temp: Max 82, Min 67

18 Feb 1902

Note arrived early from G. saying he would arrive today & during forenoon, in he came.
Can't say how glad I am to see him. With him came carriers with trade goods from Kalomo. These were paid off.
Rearranged stores, putting trade goods in spare hut. New tent has come.
G. must have had a rough time coming from B'wayo. The rains in the south have been very heavy. A white bull bitch has come with G.
Great pity "Jim" is dead as we could have bred with them.

Temp: Max 85, Min 66

19 Feb 1902

Gielgud's arrival has put life into the camp, which I think we really wanted. We had a great clear up in the office & got through a lot of work. Before breakfast I took parade.
A lot of Indunas came in to pay their respects to Gielgud on his return.
G. has suggested that I should take over the practical management of the police so that he may not be brought closely in contact with them.
It appears that the date of my leave is not fixed - but that Milton said that it would be all right.
In B'wayo, G. drew £25 with blank cheque I gave him to pay some of my share of expenses.
A patrol is to start under Lara tomorrow to summon Siapela & Maiyenda to camp. Maiyenda to report about matter which caused trouble with Coryndon recently.

Temp: Max 81, Min 68

20 Feb 1902

Working in office most of day. Traded grain with Siakwena's.
Muloa made complaint against Makoko, Sigariatombwi's - of child stealing. Police will go out tomorrow.
Lara started with patrol to summon Siapela and Maiyenda to camp. Very heavy rain storm.
In evening, G. & I went to garden, which is not doing very well.
Mail came in. Letters from Mother & Natalie. Hear that Nell has produced twins - girls. Rather alarming for their household I should imagine.
Glad to hear that she is getting on fairly well.
In evening, G. cut off my beard with clippers - tomorrow I shall apply the razor.
Patrol under Lara left to Maiyenda.

Temp: Max 81, Min 67

21 Feb 1902

Working hard in office all day; there is a lot of official correspondance to be got through.
Two police started for Sigariatombwi's to summon Makoka, accused of child stealing. All the Indunas of the district are coming in to see G. on his return.

Temp: Max 89, Min 68

22 Feb 1902

Working in office all day. Copying reports etc.
Quite a reception of Indunas again. People from Bulibuli & Sigariatombwi got for their past sins of ommision
& commission. Paid last of G.'s carriers. Boys came in from Sigariatombwi's with Makoka accused of child stealing.
It appears that he took the child as hostage for a cow stolen by the child's father. Both ordered to return their ill gotten gins.
Heavy rain storm in afternoon.

Temp: Max 80, Min 67

23 Feb 1902

Hunted in "home" guen and got a 'pala ram - good shot - in morning. Home for breakfast.
Working in office, preparing dispatches to start tomorrow for Adm. N.W. Rhodesia. More Indunas visiting Gielgud. We arranged for 17 donkeys to go to Nkala to be in charge of Robert.
Put out 60 yds calico for Harris in return for loan of that amount.
Went to garden - a boy has now been put in charge of it, which is a considerable relief to me & the place looks better with constant attention.
We have quite got into the old way of living again & it is very nice to have G. here again.

Temp: Max 84, Min 68

24 Feb 1902

3 boys started for Nkala with the donkeys, letters & also calico for Harris.
Indunas in camp again. Boys sent to Mtanti's to summon Shbonzsiwaiyawaya(???), accused of running off with Libilo's wife.
Came in, also Indunas. G. held a great inquiry and dispensed justice.
The fair respondent must have great beauties of the heart, for those of the lady appeared to be entirely insignificant.

Temp: Max 86, Min 64

25 Feb 1902

Gielgud has had a bad cold since his return & I am now developing one. Feeling very groggy with touch of fever.
G. has made great additions to the garden & planted a great lot of seeds.
Other Indunas came in to see G.
Kept very quiet in camp.

Temp: Max 87, Min 66

26 Feb 1902

Letter arrived from Davey, saying he will start today to visit us. He has heard that he has got to stay on at the Mines till Sept.
G. hunted in morning & came back to lunch having seen no game. he has a touch of fever, result probably of getting soaked with dew.
Lara's patrol returned with Siafula(???), Maiyenda, Monasibobo, several other chiefs & about 100 people.
We had a great indaba (meeting) about Baijer's (??) treatment by the Batchukulumbwi [Ba-shuku-lumpwi - The reference is to the characteristic coiffure of the people; from Smith & Dale, 1920)] .& G. accused the people that the kraals implicated will be punished. I think this is the biggest crowd we have had here.
Pitched new tent & put things in it to clear hut for Davey.
Tent seems quite good. As I write, natives in camp are having a great dance & sing-song. Feeling fitter today.

Temp: Max 92, Min 68

27 Feb 1902

Heavy rain in morning & during great part of day.
G. had awful interview with the chiefs & a complaint by Siafula(???) against Gaundu was settled.
Chiefs then went off. G. has told Siafula to send up one afom conis(???) at his camp - consis in milk & we are out of it.
Arranged hut for Davey who should arrive soon.
I drilled police in afternoon. They were slack & made me very angry.
We bought another monkey today - not a patch on our old one.

Temp: max 88, Min 66

28 Feb 1902

Hunted all morning through home guen & hills to E. & saw not a buck. Back late for lunch & with a first class headache. I had put a boy on to place(???) tomato plants off ground, the good fellow has spoilt about half.
Bulibuli came in & was choked off. He promised to build a boat for Gov; to be left at his crossing.
Siawayago also paid a visit. Wrote some official letters for mail tomorrow, also wrote to Mother & Worthington.
Monkey - new one, escaped & we had a great chase, eventually catching her when she appeared to be returning to camp of her own accord. Bulibuli presented G. with a small animal of the mongoose family. Our menagerie grows again.

Temp: Max 86, Min 66

March 1902  
1 Mar 1902

G. went hunting after breakfast & got back for lunch having seen no game.
It certainly is very difficult to get meat now. We shot 3 of our tame pigeons for dinner tonight.
People came in from Kunibwa's(???) bringing present of 2 goats.
Boy left for Nkala with mail. Kisenagi (???) arrived from Tshibi in charge of donkeys going to Nkala, that a donkey has been lost at Kaiyingu's.

Temp: Max 77, Min 68

2 Mar 1902

Meant to hunt in morning but rain stopped me. Went out after lunch working S & E & wounded a Hartebeeste, breaking shoulder at 150 yds, running in thick bush.
Followed till dark & had to give it up. Shot zebra stallion near 1st vlie at back of camp.
Home about 7pm. G. had had interview with Sibulumwa, a big chief from district of Nyamkombo & Nanjiwa,
the ev??? had come as envoy from the people.
G. told him that this submission was first necessary before any peaceful settlement can be made.
Monasiboba & Penkeli also came in.

Temp Max 77, Min 67

3 Mar 1902

I went to follow spoor of wounded Hartibeeste but very heavy rain in night made it useless to try.
Boys went out for Zebra meat. A wolf had attacked the head.
Drilled boys in morning.
The 3 N.M.'s who went to B'wayo with G. & remained with our waggon, returned today & were paid for service from 21 June to 21 Dec 1901.
They brought note stating that 10 oxen were bought in B'wayo for waggon & another from driver saying he has sent oxen back to B'wayo.
Great pity, they would have been very useful. G. hunted in evening & saw nothing. I marked out another bit of road to Kafue.
Natives sold us about a doz. hens today - our poultry stock was running low.

Temp: Max 81, Min 70

4 Mar 1902

Hunted in morning & in guen N. of East Path, made a nailing shot at a young hartebeeste bull, bolting like blazes in long grass at over 100 yds. Hit him in rump breaking spine. Back early to camp & found that G. also had gone to hunt. Made Lara prisoner for dismissing parade without leave while I was in camp.
Visited garden which goes on well.
Mail came in from Nkala. Two home letters for me from Mother & Barbara. Natalie had chicken pox when letters were written,
20th Dec, otherwise everybody fairly fit. A tremendous bunch of letters for G. collected during his trip south.
Christmas card from R.N. Kerr for me.
Bank balance to Dec 31, £154 15/- 11d.

Temp: Max 81, Min 66

5 Mar 1902

My birthday - I am 28 - how awful!
G. presented me with a most excellent & large water bottle, a great improvement on my old small one.
Tshibi & Kanzini(???) came back fron Nkala having left the donkeys in Robert's charge.
The lost donkey has been recovered. Robert also sent a flat-iron for which we asked him & sent him 10/-.
Davey has not turned up yet and we begin to think the weather has been too much for him.
Last night rain 4.19 inches full - beginning after 6pm. This is our record.
Had an excellent dinner; soup, roast hartebeeste, pineapple with champagne & brandy.
I had Lara up before G., who choked him off. No rain.

Temp: Max 80, Min 68

6 Mar 1902

Drilled boys before breakfast. Nothing much happened in camp.
I wrote to R.N. Kerr, & G. also wrote letters as we are sending off mail on Saturday - a week before the ordinary time.
Still no sign of Davey; I scarcely expect that he will come now.
Though my leave has been granted, it seems foolish to be away in he dry weather when any changes in the arrangements of the district will probably take place.
With G.'s consent therefore, I am going to postpone my leave for a few months.
Sowed a lot of seeds in the old garden. The others are doing fairly well. Practically no rain.

Temp: Max 80, Min 68

7 Mar 1902

Prepared mail to leave tomorrow. Wrote to Mother, Lockhart & Nell.
Also sent certificate of accuracy & Dee; balance to Standard Bank.
Sent 2 rolls of exposed films to London for development.
Wrote also to Macauley, Kasempa's.
Read Buller's speech, the alleged reason for his dismissal.
Indunas, Muyanga, Lutanka & rep from Tsbinkuni(???) (my old prisoner) came in to pay their respects to G. They all come from same neighbourhood & are a wild lot.
Slight rain shower.
I have a slight go of fever.

Temp: max 76, Min 67

8 Mar 1902

I drilled police before breakfast.
Almost all day G. & I were busy making up lists of trade goods & private stores required from Bulawayo.
They should reach Falls in June, I expect, & we can send down our waggon for them.
In evening, we went down to garden which is getting on well. Like last year, beans seem to be best - excepting tomatoes, of course.
We have stationed a native youngster at the garden to scare away birds which otherwise destroy every tomato as it begins to ripen.
We had an interesting exhibition today of some of the feeding habits of the meercat - it is not really a meercat but I know of no nearer name. We gave it an egg which for a long time it could not break, several attempts by throwing it on the ground failing because ground was soft.
At last, the the beast took the egg in its paws, suddenly threw it out between its hind legs so as to hit a wooden box near. Having broken the shell it ate the contents.
A few minutes afterwards, it found a toad, seized it & proceeded to crunch its bones which I could hear breaking,
when the meercat swallowed the toad headfirst & whole!
The body of the meercat is not a foot long! Still no sign of Davey.
This morning two boys left for Nkala with mails.

Temp: Max 84, Min 68

9 Mar 1902

Bongolo, who used to work in camp, made a charge of the murder of his father by Monatshianda.
I am going tomorrow, with a patrol, to try and capture Monatshianda & bring him in.
Arranged stores and everything for leaving tomorrow. Expect to be back in a couple of days.
Made out lists of trade goods, stores, stationary etc. to come from B'wayo.

Temp: Max 80, Min 67

10 Mar 1902

I was preparing to start for Monatshianda's when a note arrived from Mr Davey sying he would arrive here today.
G. told me not to start but send patrol under Nkunzi.
Hunted out E. till past noon & saw no game.
Found Davey had arrived on my return.
Induna Niambo & some of his people who attacked Baijer came in and G. interviewed them.
Refused to treat without arrival & submission of Indunas. They had brought a bullock which G. refused.
Late in evening, Nkunzi turned up with Monatshianda & some of his people who were placed under guard for night.
Mail came in. Letter from C.H.W. for me.

Temp: Max 85, Min 69

11 Mar 1902

G. held inquiry into case against Monatshianda. Bongolo gave evidence as did some of M's people.
It happens that M. found a wife dead & sent to witch doctor at Sigariatombwi's(???) who threw bones & decided that Galakampandi had caused woman's death.
Under M's orders, his people went & killed Galakampandi. M. owned to these facts.
Murdered man's people were also seized.
M. is detained prisoner while case is reported to Adminstr. People ordered to bring in the captured women.
Visited garden. Mr. Davey has brought me specimen of lead ore from large deposit found by him.
Played euekie (???) in evening.

Temp: Max 78, Min 69

12 Mar 1902

Police drilled & I left them to Lara.
In afternoon, some indunas came in & we bought 2 goats from Penkeli - one a blanket & one, 2 yds calico.
G. also bought bow & arrows for Worthington.
Nellie, G.'s bull terrier became very ill & died this evening after going into convulsions. We did everything we could. G. has awful luck with dogs. This is the seventh that has died. Nellie's symptoms rather suggested poisoning.
Took Davey to river but could not get within 50 yds of ???iary bank because of floods.
River very full.

Temp: Max 89, Min 70

13 Mar 1902

Others of Monatshianda's people came in bringing two old women said to be the seized wifes of Golakapandi, the murdered man.
It seems doubtful & many lies were certainly told.
Two men were put in guard till Bongolo turns up to identify women. Muyanga was in camp & Mr Davey photographed him.
Mr Davey kindly labelled the specimens of ore which he brought in.

Temp: Max 80, Min 67

14 Mar 1902

Prepared mail to start tomorrow & we're all busy most of the day writing. I sent a wire line home, also two photos, one of Mr Davey out on a trip of inspection & one of Mgalo(???) and group at Kalomo.
Went down to garden. Getting on fairly.
Weather seems rather more like dry season coming on.
Wrote to Beasley, B'wayo ordering 2 pairs khaki slacks, 6 pairs socks & necktie.

15 Mar 1902

Mzogozwana & a native left for Nkala with mails. Bongolo arrived in camp and on seeing women from Monatshianda's failed to identify them.
On being taken back to guard room, one of Monatshianda's young men detained on 13th, managed to escape. I went after him with police force but he got clean away.
Decided I should go tomorrow to Monatshianda's with patrol & try to recover Bangolo's people.
Mr Davey has decided to leave tomorrow so we can travel so far together.
Arranged stores etc. for patrol.
Weather looks like clearing; hope it means wet season is at an end.
G. opened a bottle of Bolinger at dinner to speed the parting guest.
I fear Davey has had a rather unexciting time here; we have had a lot to do & have perforce had to leave him a good deal to himself.
He says he enjoys the rest & change of society.

16 Mar 1902

Trilby very ill yesterday,like Nellie, but seems rather better this morning.
I was up early & ready to start but between Davey taking photo of police & other delays, we did not get away till 9:30.
Saw some Hartebeeste & D. tried a shot but found rifle unloaded & game went off.
Stopped for 1/2 hr to rest carriers & soon came on single zebra which Davey went after.
I pushed on with police & reached Monatshianda' at 3pm.
On nearing kraal, I sent half the police with Lara to approach kraal from far side and then advanced. Kraal was almost deserted but a few people bolted & ran into Lara's party who captured 3.
These absolutely denied knowledge of the women we want. Threats produced no result. Finally, they said people had run to Sigariatombwi's & protested that the whole affair was of old occurrence. One man came into camp & when I called him to me, suddenly bolted. Police caught him & had him slightly flogged as a lesson. Goodness knows whether these people of Bangolo are lying - many things point to latter.
Davey arrived about 4:30 with carriers & zebra meat & we camped near kraal. Sent police to look for food. People from Mkabo's brought a present of grain, trying to be very friendly.

17 Mar 1902

After a fine night, D & I had breakfast & parted, I making for Sigariatombwi's & taking one of the prisoners I caught yesterday & releasing he others, except the boy from Camp who was carrying load.
Started about 7:15 & passed kraals of Kasones, Siamabobo & Tutuna(???) & Shamkwabilo(???) reaching Sigariatombwi's 16:15, about 9 miles SE from Monatshianda's.
I had sent on boys to announce my arrival. Lot of water in path.
Sigariatombwi's states that his people left his kraal early this morning.
Later, Sigariatombwi sent to tell me that he had lied & that some of his people were in kraal. He brought them to me & Bangolo identified the women, Tshilonga & Mukanda, who with her chief, will go to camp with me.
Everyone but Bongolo protest that the murder occurred years ago.
Released man from Monatshianda's & came on 3 hours to lecq vlei where we camped for night.
At S's, I warned people against ??kitting offenders from us.

18 Mar 1902

Heavy rain during night.
Leopard wandering around camp but could not see him.
Started at 7am & came on 3 hrs to camp. Lot of water on road & river near Camp very full.
Mlunguchi(???) in camp gave independent evidence that Galakampandi was murdered years ago.
Corroborated by woman & by the fact that her child is acknowledged son of Monatshianda.
The lying in this case has been wonderful & M. is fool enough to have nearly convicted himself by failing to tell the truth.
M. & boy released. Bongolo had started back with his mother, & police were sent after him as he was now the offender in giving false evidence and charge against Monatshianda.
M is remaining in camp to hear case against Bongolo & his boy has gone to summon his people.
Went to look at garden which goes on well. Walked to river with G.
Trilby still sick, but much better.

Temp: Max 87, Min 68

19 Mar 1902

Police returned with Bongolo, who now will remain in prison, till case is inquired into on the arrival of people from Monatshianda's.
I went to garden & gave orders for ttansplanting of carrots.
Tshiluyabi is building huts near G.'s camp in trees behind.
He is coming to live here - no doubt as he says Shimolavwa(???) wants to kill him for paddling me to the island when I tried to arrest him.
I brought about 1400 lbs of grain from Penkeli's people & told them to bring more.
Heavy storms, rain & thunder.
Letter arrived from Macauley - Kasempa's telling me his father's address - Col. Macauley, 2 Cathedral Sq, Glasgow, & asking me to call on his people when I go home. Gielgud feeling seedy.

Temp: Max 89, Min 69

20 Mar 1902

Went to garden after drilling boys. Everything looks very fit.
People from Monatshianda's came in in and Bongolo was brought up.
He admitted having lied about Galakampandi's murder - it occurred years ago, before we came here.
Bongolo was shown how serious was his offence and got 20 strokes with sjambok & a month hard labour.
Monatshianda & people left camp, much relieved at the turn events have taken.
Muloa visited camp and brought present of horns.
Started putting up new hut - a store in Camp, to be ready for our next supply of trade goods etc.
Rain during great part of day.
Trilby, my pointer, is very ill - evidently blackwater fever. I have been giving her quinine, but I fear she will die like all the other dogs. She is awfully weak.
Letters from Mother & P.W.A. dated 1 & 3 Jan.

Temp: Max 80, Min 67

21 Mar 1902

Started about 6:30 to hunt in home quen & got a warthog - rather lucky seeing pig in long grass. Caught in rain on way home.
Found G. drilling police. Afternoon, copying old reports for London Board.
Traded almost 1900 lbs grain from Penkeli's people.
Trilby awfully bad & will probably die tonight. She can't move. Injected philocarpin and, later, brandy. The poor brute is scarcely conscious but still tries to wag her tail when I speak to her. It really is sickening to see one's dogs dying like this. Evidenly we can't keep dogs here.
Mzagozwana out all day hunting saw Hartebeeste but did not get a shot.
G. much better today.

Temp: Max 70, Min 66

22 Mar 1902

Poor Trilby died during the night. I had her cut open & found the gall bladder much extended, the kidneys full of yellow water and the lung cavity flooded with thick yellow liquid.
Again we are without dog.
Drilled police in morning.
People came in from Shipolelwa's(???) bringing a present of a bullock. As this arrival has been in "fly" we shall probably kill & eat it.
In afternoon, G. & I started for garden & had got half way when a big storm came up & we only just reached camp in time to avoid a wetting; later we went to garden which is going on well.
Copying old reports for London Board during day.
Mzogozwana sent to hunt, got a warthog.

Temp: Max 75, Min 67

23 Mar 1902

Finished reports for London Board.
Went down to garden with G. In evening, we went to fish in Mwenga but had no luck. I caught one ???ly female barbel.
Mtshenti of Muyanga's came in & told us that Kaundu's people who seized and sent his child across the Kafue, have tried to get him back, but people refuse to return him.
Beautiful cool evening, with scarcely a cloud in the sky. Sat outside after dinner reading.

Temp: Max 80, Min 64

24 Mar 1902

I drilled police after breakfast. G. shot the bullock brought in on the 22nd. & issued meat. It was very fat & will replenish our supply of fat for cooking.
Some Indunas came in & saw G. in afternoon.
In evening, G. & I went down to Mwenga & set a night line.
I came back & had roof lifted onto new hut - rather a business getting it lifted over the fence. It really should have been built inside yard.
G. went on through guen & home by East path looking for birds but saw none.
G. feeling very seedy.
Thoroughly enjoyed roast beef at dinner - have not eaten beef for many months.
Again, a fine clear night & we sat outside reading after dinner.

Temp: Max 86, Min 69

25 Mar 1902

G. quite ill today, went back to bed during forenoon where he has remained.
He seems to be thoroughly out off sorts - liver, digestion etc. & fever on top.
Went up to see him several times, but here is little one can do for him.
Went to look at night line & found a small barbel on it - about 1lb weight. Set it again.
Party of natives arrived from B'wayo where they have been working. They are on their way home. These are boys who went down with our old police. They say our waggon has reached Kalomo & that Nanzila River is still very flooded.
Wrote to C.H.W.(?). Began letter to Albert.
G. & I meant to start tomorrow on patrol but it is now postponed.

Temp: Max 83, Min 70

26 Mar 1902

George's birthday (Brother)- he must be 31 years old.
Gielgud a good deal better, but still very weak & has to be very careful about diet. He came down during forenoon. The boys who arrived yesterday asked for pay for carrying down some horns for G. to B'wayo. As they had agreed to carry horns in return for food - they were going anyhow to work - pay was, of course, refused.
Went to look at night line in morning & again in evening leaving it set. No fish.
Wrote to Harris, Nkala, asking him to return side of bacon & 2lbs of tea lent to him in January.
Wrote to Sect. Controller asking that flour may be sent with my rations instead of meal.
New arrangement in kitchen. Dick is now to be cook only, as we find so many boys don't work satisfactorily.

Temp: Max 75, Min 67

27 Mar 1902

Drilled police after breakfast. Two white traders from north - Green & Norton, arrived in camp.
They have been trading rubber & ivory in Congo State & N. Rhodesia. They think of going to trade cattle in lower Kafue, but after discussing are not decided. They camped here & lunched & dined with us.
Indunas Nanjiwa, Siamonla & Nyumkombo came in to make submission & undertook to return people & cattle which they had raided from Shipolelwa.
Kapondula's brother also came in & made complaint against Shintembe.
Sat late talking. G. is better but very weak & went to bed early. Fine clear night.

Temp: Max 79, Min 68

28 Mar 1902

Green & Norton started back North having given up idea of trading Matehukulumbi's cattle.
I photographed a fine group of natives - Nanjiwa's & Nyumkombo's, before they left to return to their homes. Monatshianda came in to pay his respects. One scarcely expected to see him so soon after his recent imprisonment here.
Mzovu made a complaint against Itumbwi (Mtanti's successor) claiming some of Mtanti's women.
Sent police to summon Itumbwi.
Went to garden & to look at night line, which had no fish, however.
Feeling rather slack.

Temp: Max 84, Min 69

29 Mar 1902

Feeling seedy when I woke, but started about 7am to hunt. Out till about noon & saw nothing. Lots of spoor.
Back to camp feeling quite ill. Fever, liver etc. Kept very quiet all rest of day.
Boy left this morning for Nkala with mail. I sent letter to C.H.W. and B'wayo Chronicle with account of interview with Gielgud to Mother.
Also sent of letter to Harris (Nkala) asking him to return bacon & tea lent to him as we are getting short.
Siapula has at last sent us cow & calf- they arrived yesterday.
Today they have been crossed to island and our cow & calf from there brought to camp. A donkey colt died today. It has been sick for some time.

Temp Max 84, Min 68

30 Mar 1902

Siapela's people went off before daybreak with the cow & calf (brought over from Muyanga's) to be left at Siapela's. 2 police went with them as far as Penkeli's to see that they hurried through the fly. G. hunted in morning, saw some pala but got no shot. Mzogozwana hunted all day; fired at & missed a hartebeeste. In evening G. hunted again behind camp & got a duiker.

I am feeling much better today but have kept quiet. Went out with shotgun in evening & missed a couple of snipe. Glad to see them; it may mean there are others. No rain, clear sky at night. Too much to hope that rains are past.

Temp: Max 86, Min 65

31 Mar 1902

G. not very fit today. Bongolo, who was flogged on the 20th, has developed a frightful back. The flogging was not a very hard one but all strokes seem to have fallen on one place with result that for a space of about 6 inches square the flesh has simply disappeared. We have been dressing it every day - a most unpleasant performance - and the sore is healing well. I never saw a back like it.

In evening, G. & I went out after snipe, down vlei W of camp & up Snipe Kie but saw none. Coming back, I killed a quaill but lost it in long grass when it fell. Mzogozwana sent to hunt & shot an eland cow. Out with G. today I saw a jackal & fired at it with no. 6 shot, with no result.

Temp: Max 89, Min 67

 
April 1902  

1 Apr 1902

One of our cows on the island reported dead, it had been sick for some time & had not been reported till yesterday. Mtanti sent in a goat as a present, a young ram. We now have 2 rams but they are too young yet to breed. Had a revolver match with G. but he was shaken from fever & I never could shoot with revolver. Practice was not good! Fine, bright day & wind from good direction, S.E. Some vile beast has eaten some of the bean plants in my garden.

Nell's birthday. Good luck to her.

Temp: Max 90, Min 63

2 Apr 1902

Drilled boys in morning while G. wrote report for March, forgotten last mail. In afternoon, Miller arrived from Kasempa's on way South & possibly to go on leave. He remained for an hour or so and then went across river. I went down with him. Has left Macauley at Kasempa's suffering from neuralgia. In late evening, mail arrived, bringing news that the plan to have B.N.P. here has fallen through. If any N.W.R. official is responsible, they are simply "cutting their own throat". G.alone wrote asking for new Ma??? and we were busy all evening making up the dispatches; letter for me contained a box of Queen's chocolate at last. G. & I enjoyed the chocolate & the box I shall keep carefully - it is almost better than a medal. Several letters from home.

Nell fairly fit, Anne going on. Patrick has decided at last moment to give up Nigeria. Letters dated up to Jan 24.

3 Apr 1902

Lion roaring in 'home' guen during night and going further off towards sun-up. G. & I decided to go off today on patrol to Kaundu's hoping to get some hunting at Siamajogo's. Left Bangolo's back and Makuswana's foot to Lara's tender mercies having given him lessons in dressing. Got away about 3pm with 22 police and 11 carriers leaving Lara & 4 other police in camp. Matemba & Tshonka left in morning with the dispatches for B'wayo. They will be discharged in B'wayo.

We came on & camped early at Uungwi River. I am sleeping in big tent, which seems a great improvement on small one. Arranged for boy to go back tomorrow to bring back some liquor of which we have brought a very small supply. G. found his acetylene lamp choked up & had great trouble to put it right. I expected him to blow himself up any minute.

4 Apr 1902

Got away at 7:30 after breakfast & came on to Penkeli's. Saw herd of Sable & G. went after them but got no shot. Going on with boys, I came on herd & again got no shot. Penkeli & Monasibobo came to see us, bringing present of meal & beer.

On again at 2:30, taking path to S.W. towards Siamajogo. Put up 2 Hartebeeste & G. got a hard shot & missed his .400 bullet completely but cut down a tree & went through another. Camped near river on our (N) side of Siamajogo's & induna & people came over to see us bringing some fowls, 2 of which we immediately had cooked for dinner. Much colder tonight. I hope there may be no mosquitos - they bothered us a good deal last night. Boy sent back to camp overtook us at midday with a bottle of gin.

5 Apr 1902

G. having won the toss, we started out after early breakfast to hunt. G. went S&E and I went N&E with boys from Siamajogo's. I soon came on herd of zebras & wounded one; followed it a long way but blood stopped & I had to give it up. Came on single Eland cow which I bagged & photographed. Got back to camp after midday where I found G. just returned having shot 3 Eland, 2 cows & a bull. Boys sent out for meat. I was very thirsty & consumed a vast quantity of Eno & water. I had a warm bath & lunch. Large part of meat cut up and put on stakes to dry, and the rest, amounting to more than 2 Eland, given to Kraal. Mtshenti overtook us to go to with patrol to Kaundu's tomorrow after his kidnapped son, Mangi. Lots of mosquitos last night, so we are putting up nets tonight. Bought 5 fowls & the chief sent us a good supply of meal. At night I was looking for something in my tent groping on the ground with my hand in the dark. On striking a match, I found a horrible looking puff adder on the ground within an inch of where I had had my hand. A rather lucky escape. We killed the snake.

6 Apr 1902

Nkumi started with 14 police for Kaundu's to bring in Induna. G. & I both hunted. I went S. & saw some zebra & pala but did not shoot. Saw fresh lion spoor following zebra & went on it but with no result. Did not fire a shot & got back to camp for lunch, where I found G. who had shot a Sable cow & a pala ram. Bath & lunch. Went on about 5pm to look for pala but saw nothing tpo shoot. Fine weather, looks as if rains were really over. G. also went out in evening & near camp saw Zebra & 2 Hartebeeste but did not shoot.

7 Apr 1902

Both went out to hunt, I going S. & E. & G. to hills near path to Simkwayila's. I went a long way & saw only 2 oribi, one of which I shot. Got back after 1pm. G. had returned having shot a Sable ram, the head of which he skinned. We arranged for Simiajogo & Simkwayila to send 10 carriers each to bring stores from Kalomo. In evening, I went out to look for pala & coming on herd, I shot a ram & ewe. Patrol returned with Kaundu and the kidnapped child. G. gave Kaundu a choking off, but, as affair turns out to be an old one, did nothing more. Nkumi has hurt his foot and did not return with the others.

8 Apr 1902

Siamajogo's 10 boys arrived & travelled with us.
Mosquitos bad but did not get into my curtain. Decided to move today homewards and after breakfast struck tents. Nkumi turned up in morning lame with cut in foot. Arranged with Gaundu to send 10 boys to go with me to Kalomo.
After lunch we set off, leaving 4 boys to wait for Kaundu's & Simkwayila's people.
Took skins, horns & biltong already dried. On road, G. shot a guinea fowl. Reached Penkeli's and passed kraals, camping in guen about a mile beyond. Indunas brought present of potatoes & meal. This morning we watched a most amusing fight between 2 kitchen boys; they swung their arms like flails & hit with open hand, no-one getting hurt.

9 Apr 1902

Did not hurry in getting aqway, to allow duo to dry. Mosquitos very bad in night & had to get up & rig my net. Road drying well. Reached camp about 11am, finding everything right.

Lion has been heard roaring everyday, but a long way off. Donkey we left sick is not dead yet. Went to gardens which seem to be doing fairly well. Picked a dish of peas for dinner, the first grown there. Arranged for Lara & 3 boys to go tomorrow to Monasiboba's & go on with him to Nanjniva's to find out if Shipolelwa's cattle & people have been returned. No rain has fallen here since we left camp.

Temp at camp since we left on patrol: Max 93, Min 63

10 Apr 1902

Drilled boys after breakfast. Sent off boy to summon carriers from Monatshianda's. Lara & 3 police went off to Monasiboba's en route to Nanjiwa's.

G. working with his horns put knife into leg; hope he won't get blood poisoning from dirty knife. Several Indunas visited camp, Msuwe (???), Mpondi, Monasimbola, & Mola. Some of these are from the area where Baijer was attacked though they say their people had nothing to do with it. Traded a lot of grain from Penkeli's people - what an enormous amount of grain they have. Mjenu (???) arrived in camp with carriers from Simkwayila & Seperu (???) for Kalomo trip.

Temp: Max 90, Min 60

11 Apr 1902

Mail leaves tomorrow. Wrote to mother, P.W.A. & Frances. Boys returned with carriers from Kaundu's also from Monatshianda's. From boys now in camp, I chose 38 to go with me to Kalomo. Had my horns cleaned. I think of taking them with me to Kalomo & arrange for waggon to take them to the Falls. Hope to get ready in time to start tomorrow for Kalomo.

Lions still heard to E. of camp, but no sign of them near. G. drilled boys today; they did badly & were awarded extra parade in afternoon. Went to see garden.

Temp: Max 90, Min 62

12 Apr 1902

To date, I owe G. £9 12s 6d. Sent off two natives to Nkala with mail. On turning out boys ton work, found that two of those engaged yesterday had bolted during the night. Patrol sent off to their kraals to try & capture them. G. went out to hunt after breakfast & got back in afternoon having seen no game. He was in the district where the lions are roaring everyday & probably they have driven the game away. I was busy all day looking after arrangenents for starting tomorrow. Made up loads of horns & food & sent the majority of carriers, two police & 2 donkeys across Kafue to await my arrival. Sent all loads ready. The boys going with me are Tandugnobla (Cpl), Kagan, Tabangana, Ndlalambi & Mnkwe (???), & kitchen boy, 38 carriers. Got to bed rather late. In evening G. & I made up our accounts to the present of which is that I owe him £9. 12. 6.

He paid me £10 the half of what I paid carriers with loads from Tshete some months ago. An Induna brought us presents of 5 young guinea fowl yesterday and tonight 2 of them have been killed, so far as we can see, by our own cats which were looking extraordinarily fat.

13 Apr 1902

Another of the new work boys at camp bolted during the night. G. vows vengeance. Got off early after a bad night. I woke about 2am with a racking headache which was happily gone when I woke finally.

Busy all morning finishing preparations for starting & got the last of the carriers & loads off to cross river about 10am. I returned to lunch and then crossed river, G. coming down to see me off. Started about 2:30 and came on through much water, reaching at times to the waist, till 5:15 when I camped for night. Find that among all my carriers there a 3 ??? which makes Sekem (??) building a long pa???. Killed a snake near my tent. On way, we had a thunder shower, hope rain won't continue.

14 Apr 1902

Rain came on after about 9pm last night & fell heavily all night. Got away at 7am and had rain for an hour on way. Camped at 12 & post boys returning met us here. Nothing for me but I expected nothing and I told Harris to keep my mail for me.

On again at 2:30. Shot a pala ram -running in bush - a good shot - & came on till 5:30 when we camped near river for the night. Two carriers are sick but not bad & I am not over sympathetic. I have rarely enjoyed a whisky & soda as I did tonight!

15 Apr 1902

Started at 6:30 & came on to Musa River about mid-day. On way, came to a very full river. I managed to cross by means of rocks and a native stake net. Came on herd of pala & shot a ram. At 1:30pm, we set off again & came right on to Nkala.

I turned off by path through bush to Fort, taking boys with the baggage. I wanted to send the rest on to Mission Station to camp. Sent a note to Robert Moalosi saying I should want a horse & donkeys tomorrow morning. Found Harris at Fort. He made me very welcome & I drank an iniquitous amount of tea. Fort much improved, roads widened & rocks removed - no water yet in well. Found that Harris has wisely removed the cattle kraal from the Kopje. Slept in Harris's hut & talked late.

Got my mail from Harris. Letters from B.M.A & ?.?.A. No news yet why Patrick has changed his plans.

16 Apr 1902

Mosquitos very bad. Borrowed head stall from Harris, ours is broken. I was up early hoping to make a good start. H. however, had mail to send off, monkeys to look at & an infinity of small affairs which allowed us to breakfast only at 9am. My boys came early for my kit & horse was brought to bottom of Kopje. Sent on letters I brought with me by mail. Harris rode with me to Nkala River. At Mission, I paid off head boy. Another carrier, Sautu of Simkwayila's has bolted in night. The horse - Jacob - is a fine big beast, very quiet & lazy but a great comfort after walking for two days through water. Robert tells me another donkey has died - showing symptoms of "fly". I go on therefore with 16, one a mare heavily in foal. Reached Nanzila about 5pm. Evangelist brought me milk & offered me a guide over Nanzila swamp. (also known as Nanzela)

17 Apr 1902

Guide from Mission came & we got away at 6:30. Left pair of horse clippers with Joseph at Mission until I return.

Water in river & vlei very bad & for at least four miles we were going through water from 1 to 4 feet deep. Cantering to overtake head of column, horse put his foot in a hole and went on his nose. I managed to recover him & keep my seat but got a bad blow on the chin from horse's head - breaking a tooth & making my jaw so painful that I can scarcely eat. Came on till 11:30 & camped beside water for lunch. The number of wild fowl on vlei are wonderful. Geese, duck etc rise from behind every ant heap or clump of bush. Started again about 2:15 and came on rest house at Mbila's (1 mile from kraal). Just as we got my tent up, a heavy storm came on, rain only lasted about an hour. I am sleeping in tent, putting loads in hut. Shot a guinea fowl & boy killed a pheasant with stick. Wounded a wildebeast which fell 3 times in 100yds and lost it in thick grass. No bloody spoor.. About 18 miles.

18 Apr 1902

Heavy dew so did not start till 6:45. Awful grass for miles & donkey going was slow. Passed near Shabia River 2 B.N.P. with carriers & loads from Kasempa's. Shot a guinea fowl on road. After passing any amount of water, found no more till 12 noon, all boys rather crooked. I am rather saddle sore. Two donkeys are sick & travel very slow. At 2pm, we started & came to Rest Camp at Tshunga's before 5pm & camped. (6 miles). Carriers annoyed me by practically refusing to collect firewood till I went for them with my feet. Sent for grain from kraal & later Tshunga turned up with a small supply. Told him to send a lot more in early morning. Very cold & no mosquitos. Good rest camp with large store of grain.

19 Apr 1902

Tshunga's people brought grain & I bought enough to fill up loads. I have refused to be caught & delayed start till 7:45. Came on about 14 miles to Kamela's (???) (Rest Camp). Found native Sgt. Sibeso (of B.N.P.) trading grain here. I tried to get 3 carriers from kraal but heard that all the people are engaged to cut poles for N.W. Rhodesia. The two sick donkeys arrived a good hour after the carriers who in many cases, seem to be done up. Afraid it will not be possible to reach Kalomo tomorrow as I had hoped. Started again at 3:10 & came on till about 5pm -(5 miles) to a stream where I camped as I did not know next water. On starting, one of the sick donkeys lay downto it & would not move. I left it at kraal in charge of Sebeso with instructions to hand it over to Kamela should he leave before my return. Told him to get a boy to look after it & I would pay him on return. We now have 15 donkeys only - 1 short for waggon team. I must get the Kalomo people to repay us the 2 donkeys lent to Colonel Standing about 18 months ago. Our night camp is rather a "liony" looking place & I have laid out camp as carefully as possible with fires in all directions. Saw no game except a duiker all day. I wish I could get meat for my people. I had a tin of Road Rations for dinner - it was even more fat than usual &, in spite of eating sparingly, I feel distinctly the worse for it.

20 Apr 1902

No lions troubled us & we got off at 6:30, coming on past the place where I met & outspanned with Bracken last year, to a river - about 12 miles, which we reached about 11am. Stopped for lunch. Shot a young guinea fowl on way. On again at 2pm & trekked till about 5 when we outspanned at last river but one, before Kalomo. I have again made a careful scherm on account of possible lions. The carriers announced to Tandagnepla (???) that they were tired and would not build their scherms. They recovered energy however when I went for them with a sjambok & put up their scherm in a very short time. They are a beastly lot. Road very muddy in places & donkeys certainly can't bring waggon along for some little time. Enjoyed guinea fowl for dinner. Lunch & breakfast consisted of bread & jam. Very saddle sore. Kagen sick. Did not see a buck all day. No meat for carriers.

21 Apr 1902

Got away before 7am & riding ahead soon came to Kalomo where I found Worthington, Major Carden, O'Keefe & Bracken at breakfast. Had a warm bath &, on my people coming up, sent them to camp some way from the Camp. Our waggon has not yet left the Falls. While at lunch, Mr. Coryndon arrived. He tells me back has been put in N.W.R. Also hear that Rhodes is dead - what will become of the country? In afternoon, we went to police camp & played cricket. I saw my old friend Mgalo still a prisoner.

Worthington's birthday & we had a great dinner. He has every thing very nice - China, glasses etc. which I have not seen for a long time. I am sleeping in tent inside fence. Move on tomorrow towards Falls; should take about 5 days. W. acts host quite "au grand seigneur". He produced champagne, 2 liqueurs etc at dinner & very pretty liqueur glasses. Very nice.

22 Apr 1902

(Total Eclipse). Breakfast about 9:00. Bracken got leg hurt playing cricket yesterday & it is quite bad today. I decided to make the first rest house on Falls road today (about 16 m) & got off about 12:30pm. Coryndon said he would talk over things on my return. Have brought on the donkey mare left sick at Kalomo by Gielgud. It is in quite good condition now.

Came on, passing Scherms of workers, where I left 6 yds of limbo for them to trade grain to be ready for my return. Left waggon road a few miles out & followed path to right said to be shorter. Shot 3 guinea fowl on road & reached Rest huts after sun down. Quite fresh lion spoor in drift below camp. Glad to find high fence around camp. I have tied up horse & donkeys inside. Again put stores in hut & I sleep in tent. As I write (8:20pm), moon is totally eclipsed. Matabele do not seem to like it. Abayila don't seem to have noticed it.

23 Apr 1902

No lion bothered & after cleaning up camp, we got away at 6:30. A few miles on found Murray (Grey's), & several Matabele camped on way to Kalomo. Spoke for a few minutes & came on. Found fresh lion spoor & have got so excited that I got off & hunted through grass, but found nothing. Came to big vlei about 7m from Maarman's & outspanned 11:30 having come I should say about 14m. Shot a guinea fowl. On again at 2pm reaching Maarman's at 4. Bracken had left 36 yds to buy grain & had allowed me to take from this store. Induna tells me the grain has not arrived. He could only give me a basket of nuts. I have therefore arranged to Tabangana, some carriers & the Induna to kraals in veldt to buy grain & overtake us in 2 days. Arranging to leave 3 baskets of grain here against our return. Good fenced Rest Camp here. Lion spoor everywhere but saw no lions.

21 miles today. Seems to be quite a famine on hue.

24 Apr 1902

Tabangana, 9 carriers, with 9 pack bags & 36 yds limbo started with Maarman to try & buy grain at kraals off the road - to overtake us tomorrow at Sekutinyani's. At 6:30 I got away after cleaning up Rest Camp. On till 10:40 when we reached & outspanned at a river which might be the Zimba, but does not seem far enough. I think we came about 14 miles & most accounts make the distance 16 1/2. However, no-one gives the same distances in describing a journey so far as I can make out in N.W. Rhodesia. People seem fagged so I stopped till 2pm then went on till about 5:20, reaching the Matetsti River. Open Veldt, little firewood & no chance to build scherm. Travelling in hilly country all day. Saw no game. Lion spoor on road again.

Matetsi river has quite the appearance of Highland stream. Only 2 bags of grain remain.

25 Apr 1902

Away at 6:30. Near "Sugar Loaf", met white men, Dunn & Barton, with boys & donkeys on way to Tanganyika Concession. On till 10:45 & outspanned at Siamwemba's, where I bought a small quantity of food - nuts & nyonti (???) at large prices.

One donkey, grey gelding, played out on road & as it did not come in, I sent boys to carry it, meaning to have it at kraal. Eventually, after long waiting, I rode off about 2 1/2 miles & found it just died. Something to do with its bowels - lunging probably. All this delayed me till 4:45 when I started again & came on to Rest House at Sekutinyani's, which I reached in the dark, having come about 6 miles I should say. Found Tabangana here. He had only been successful in buying one bag of grain - what a country! Coryndon's boy Peter turned up. It appears he lives here. He has promised to buy grain for my return. Stable here in which I have put donkeys. Roof too low for horse. Peter says there are lions about.

26 Apr 1902

Peter came early & I gave him limbo to buy grain. Got off & passing Sekutinyani's kraal, I managed to buy about 2 pack bags of food at extravagent prices. Several people brought grain & refused to sell. At Tsharaweide's outlying kraals, I sent boys to buy grain but people refused to sell for white limbo! At main kraal which I passed after 11o'c, I found people very independent & inclined to be chilly. However, I managed to change this manner before long. Awful mud for water here & we went to where people said good water was close. - really 1 1/2 mile from our road. Outspanned very late. Sand flies & bush bees awful - no rest.

Some carriers arrived about 3 o'c - one sick - as we were preparing to leave. Told sick boy to sleep at kraal & follow tomorrow. Cut across veldt to waggon road & found fresh horse spoor on road going North. Found it was Grey whom I am very sorry to have missed. Left boys with directions to sleep on road if they could not reach camp and continued on, reaching Syke's camp about sun down. Found Syke's in it. He made me welcome and is extremely kind. Nice camp & excellently got up. Can see the spray from Falls in great clouds above the trees about 3 miles off. Telephoned to Norton at River Camp 3 m away - only telephone in the country & promised to go down to breakfast tomorrow with him. Waggon with stores for Kalomo left tonight. Can hear the roar of the falls distinctly, especially at night. Boys have not arrived.

27 Apr 1902

Boys arrived this morning & camped near, well below Sykes'. I rode down to Norton for breakfast, meeting Thompson (De Beers Agent) on way to breakfast with Sykes. Found Norton looking awfully seedy & no wonder since he lives within 50 yds of the River & won't be persuaded to move. He takes no excercise & I should think won't live long unless he changes his arrangements. N. refused to do any work as it is Sunday & all I could do was to go over lists. Pryce (N.C. Co's storekeeper) is here with carriers & as he has 28 with no loads, I have arranged with him to carry our goods - me to pay carriers & feed them.

Pryce knows a path to Nkala where he can buy grain & has offered to take my carriers with him. As I must pass through Kalomo & there is "fly" on his path, I have accepted. Returned to Sykes's for dinner & sat late talking. S, says I should stick out for £30 or £35 a month. Agreed to pay Pryce's people a blanket & 2 yds calico for trip.

28 Apr 1902

Sykes had arranged a picnic to Falls S. side & after preparing lunch, we rode to River & met Dr. & Mrs. Clayton, Rev. M. Coisson (Missionary), Thompson & Pryce. Clayton is new Dr. for N.W.R. & I hear that one day out from B'wayo, he turned back & married a nurse at hospital. We crossed river in boats & walked 2 m to Falls. I have never seen anything so magnificent & beautiful. Impossible to describe. Sykes had brought camera & also I. We took several photos. Got soaked to skin by spray. Nearly went over cliffs into the "Cauldron" as when caught in a swirl of spray, I lost my direction & started to run toward edge.

Excellent lunch & afterwards returned to N. shore where we separated. S. & I riding up to his camp in time for dinner. In morning, I arranged for my boys to go & live at kraal several miles out as there is almost no grain here - also to trade & bring back grain. In evening, S. developed negatives which were excellent. Hear that 4 of our 10 oxen have returned to Falls & are in quarantine with 3 weeks to run.

29 Apr 1902

Started early & rode to Sekuti's drift about 3 miles. Saw Murray (Clarke's assistant) who is just recovering from bad blackwater. Called on Coisson & saw Mrs. Clayton. Rode to our waggon & found driver Vaiboom very sick. Consulted doctor who says he can't well walk up to Mwenga at present. Found a boy "Jim" who has come with waggon as servant or Gielgud. Donkey left here sick by G. is pretty fit & will complete span.

Took Vaiboom & Jim to Nortons where, after breakfast, I started breaking up loads & succeeded in taking everything except 1000 rounds M.II ammunition. Gave Vaiboom a letter I had for him. He tells me waggon was robbed a month ago by Lewanika's people when king crossed river & all blankets & kit belonging to boys taken. Boys returned with 2 bags grain. Dined with Norton & am sleeping at River Camp.

30 Apr 1902

Badly bitten by mosquitos which had got inside net. Norton has ones on leg & is ordered to bed by Clayton. In early morning, had all carriers up, gave them a days food & gave Pryce 150 yds to buy food. Kept 10 carriers for my own kit etc.

Boys started. I have lent Pryce 42 lbs flour & 2 pkts candles. Thompson has been of great assistance to me & is most obliging. Rode back to Sykes' for lunch & about 3pm started with him & boys to Falls. N. Side, also to look at what Sykes thought a possible site for the new hotel. Camped in thick brush. I have sent 3 police with Pryce in charge of our own carriers & to take them on from Nkala where Pryce will leave our loads with Robert Moalasi. Funkwi (???) & Ndlalambi remain with me.

Sykes this evening gave me a most interesting account of part of his life in Australia. He has had many "ups & downs".

May 1902  

1 May 1902

Started early to hunt with Sykes - saw no game - only spoor of koodoo, sable etc. Overtook boys & had breakfast. On again to Falls where we took several photos. I suddenly developed fever & felt so bad that I rested all afternoon & we decided to camp for the night. We are within 100 yds of main fall and the thunder of the water should make a good lullaby. I wish I had words to express the awful grandeur of the Falls. Thank goodness I have seen them before the trippers & the inevitable consequences spoil the place. I can recommend any man with an undue conceit of himself to come here for a cure. Sat talking with Sykes. He thinks I have a good chance of getting a district before very long from Coryndon. He thoroughly approves of me declining police commission.

2 May 1902

After breakfast, we broke up camp & sent boys home. S. & I went to river & took more photographs, then I rode to Norton & S. went to his own camp. My fever has come back with the hot sun but an argument with Norton acted as a pheneceten (???) & I feel better. Interviewed Vaiboom & told him he is under Controllers orders while he remains here. Got receipt from Norton for things I am leaving here, waggon, donkeys, ammunition etc. Thompson has kindly offered to look after 2 dogs which G. left behind with waggon. Told Vaiboom to hire a boy to herd donkeys, left 36 yds limbo with Norton for stray expenses. Rode back to Sykes for dinner. S. developed negatives in evening. Mail from S. days overdue has not arrived yet.

A list of the goods Anderson carried in the waggon is here.

3 May 1902

Got boys & loads away about 10am, rather delayed by Sykes's servant "September" being late with a loaf of bread he was baking for me. Thompson came to breakfast and about 1pm I rode after the boys. My fever came back in hot sun & I was feeling very bad when I overtook boys. We camped just beyond Kamela's about 4pm, having come about 18 miles in one trek. I have brought the boy Jim with me. I felt so bad that after drinking a little soup, I turned into bed; I hope this fever is not going to return every day. Several carriers say they are sick - probably due to the hot days & cold nights. They must must make a push homewards & get along as fast as we can. G. will think I am lost. I am making each boy carry his own food - only grain for horse & police being carried as loads. Hope I shall find grain at Rest House - I left limbo with Peter - to supply boys with several days rations. I have given them rations up to tomorrow evening.

4 May 1902

Woke feeling much better. Got away at 6:30 & came on to Rest House (Sekutinyani's) where I found that Peter had brought me about a sack of grain. Took what I could, rationing everyone for 3 days & filling up load of mealies for horse. Gave Peter tobacco. Passed on and outspanned about a mile beyond Kanyabenzi drift about 11:30. On again at 3pm & near Sugar Loaf overtook waggon which left Falls 8 days ago. They have had a bad time - Beecker & Kryt(???) - having had to offload twice in 500 yds. today & yesterday. Came on to near Mutitsi for night arriving at sun down. On road, boys said they saw Roan & I went after them but never saw them. When camped, waggon overtook me & Kryt & Becker came over & had a drink. After dinner, I went to waggon which is outspanned about 50 yds from me. Two carriers sick. One moans like a baby - when I am near.

5 May 1902

Started at 6:20, very cold. Kryt & Becker came to Mutetse to blast fish for breakfast. They charged a pool & killed a large number of small fish, about 1/4 lb but I had no time to wait & share in the spoil. On path, we heard a strange sound. - growling & snarling - away to our right. I walked out a long way but could see nothing. It sounded to me like young lions quarelling. Trekked to 10:40 & outspanned in mopanni near water. Ndlalambi sick. Hot sun but cool breeze. Road much drier than when I passed down, but still some nasty places. At midday outspan I found quartz with specks that looked like gold. Unfortunately, when I rubbed them mud came off! I don't know what it is. I have brought specimens. On at 1:30 to Maarman's at sun down where I managed to buy grain to ration everyone to a day beyond Kalomo. Told Maarman to send back bucket belonging to Grey. Fresh lion spoor on road.

6 May 1902

Did not wake till 6:15. Got away at 6:4,. Maarman showing me a short path. Horse much excited at parts of the road, probably lions had been about in night, but I could see nothing of them. I went over to where I saw two vultures, but found nothing. Shot 6 guinea fowl on the way & came on till 10:30 & outspanned a little beyond "Toms" kraal. Started again at 2pm & came past several villages joining waggon road near Rest Hut which we reached at 4. Stopped for night. Went out to look for birds but found none. Should reach Kalomo tomorrow in time for lunch. I hope I shall find H. H. there (???). Ndlambi reports himself well again so only one carrier is now on sick list.

7 May 1902

Away at 6:30 & came on to Kalomo, passing Toms scherm where I got a little grain in exchange for the limbo I left there - left boys to load up grain & rode on, boys arriving about 2pm.

Found Coryndon, Worthington, Carden, O'Keefe in camp. Am sleeping here tonight. Went to Police camp, bought 2 "British Warm" Coats from Cbutien (???) (14/6d each) & a can of potted meats, several of which Carden is anxious to get rid off (£3,12s).

In evening after dinner, we all except Worthington went to police camp & saw a native dance by police & messengers & their wives. Non-com's provided drinks & snacks & we had quite a pleasant evening. Back to bed about 10 o'clock. Boys camped at their old place. Horse tied up in yard.

8 May 1902

Meant to get away this morning but had to wait to talk to H. H. After breakfast, sat & read and eventually had interview with Coryndon. He says he would like to have me in his administration & will give me a billet. He has written to Gielgud asking to meet at Nanzila on 1 June when he will offer him district of Kafue which will stretch roughly from Kapondula's to junction of Kafue & Zambezi, will include all Batsbukulumbwi on S. side of Kafue & a narrow strip to Tshelis up W. side of Kafue. He cannot make me offer till having G.'s decision which looks as if I might get Kafue district if G. declines. Coryndon said I had better wait at Kalomo till arrival of mail tomorrow - I will do so. He is extremely pleasant & I think my chances are right enough. Worthington says I shall get a district. Carden preparing for long patrol via Kasempa & Sialui.

Paid O'Keefe £2 for Grand National Sweepstake & Carden £5.2 for British Warm & potted meat.

9 May 1902

Sent boys & loads off in morning. I remained to await mail which arrived during forenoon. Had a talk with Worthington who says I should stick out for £35 per month even if I don't get a district immediately. After lunch, I got away at 2:40 & reached Tshumbwi's where boys had camped (abt 15 miles) at 5:40pm. Road is still very bad & Grey's waggons which have gone ahead with Murray have evidently had a bad time - road is much cut up. Expect to overtake waggons tomorrow at or before Kamela's. Carden has given me two letters for Harris, Nkala. Worthington is starting on 18th for the Linyante to meet a representative (white) from Sekumis to discuss disputed boundary between Lewanika's and Sekumis territories. He does not fancy the journey, especially as he is going alone. Saw Sebeso from Kamela's who says sick donkey is dead.

10 May 1902

Started at 6:30am & came right on to night camp of 19 April near which we stopped at 11:15, having come about 14 or 15 miles. Road very bad in places & much cut about by waggons. Saw an oribi & some guinea fowl but got no shot. On again before 3:00 & reached Kamela's in good time. Hoped to find Murray & waggons here but just missed him - I could hear his waggon wheels at drift about 1 1/2 miles away. On road, shot 2 guinea fowl & at kraal, a pheasant - not so much meat for so many people!

Kamela came & was very civil, sold me meal, nuts, but could not produce mealies. I therefore took the liberty to helping myself to a feed for the horse from the supply bought by B.N.P. & stored here. I hope Carden won't object! Very cold morning & as fire wood is scarce, I fear the naked carriers will have a thin sort of night.

11 May 1902

Was wakened about 4am by lions roaring at drift. They had evidently passed our camp on waggon road for, as we started at 6:30am, the horse immediately scented them & became much excited. At one place, lions had rolled in grass & horse would scarcely pass. Followed spoor (3 lions, lioness & cub) for miles along road but lost it in a guen. Had two shots at a duiker but both cartridges were bad - nice if it had been a lion! Near Tshunga's, met Sgt Major Dorward (B.N.P.) on way from Nkala to Kalomo. At Tshunga's found Murray & waggons. Lunched with him & feeling rather fevery did not start till 3pm and then only came on 6 miles to water - last before a long thirst, & camped for night. Waggons passed a couple of hours later & Murray came up & had a drink. Bought grain for 2 days of Tshunga's. Hear from Dorward that water in Nanzila Vlei is now only knee deep.

12 May 1902

Started again at 6:30 & after a few miles, found Murray with waggons outspanned where road first touches Sapui River. Smoked a pipe with him & rode on after my people & outspanned at Mbila's Rest House, about 14 miles. On again at 2pm & coming on some oribi, missed disgracefully at about 30yds. I was shaky with the hot sun, I think. Walked ahead of boys with shotgun & shot 4 guinea fowl & 2 pheasants. Killed several others but lost them in the tremendous grass. Came on about half a mile beyond water where I lunched on 17th April, as there was no decent camping ground nearer. Camped for night at edge of bush a little way to right of road. Long grass & thick bush behind. Have trekked about 22 miles today, boys going fairly well but looking rather fagged. Five days more should see us home again. A month tomorrow since I left Mwenga.

13 May 1902

Bitterly cold morning & I felt quite chilled before starting at 6:30. On way, had a shot at reedbuck & I think hit one but could make nothing of it in the long grass. Found water in Nanzila Vlei gone down a lot; only in a few places did it reach above the knee. At about 10:20 we outspanned near Mission Stn. I developed a bad fit of the "shakes" & felt very miserable with a racking headache. Got horse clippers that I left with Joseph and started about 2:30 coming on almost 6 miles to near Sizungu's where I camped. Sent for grain & headman came with a lot of people & any amount of food. Choked people off for not clapping hands etc. Bought some grain & had to refuse the greater part, much to people's disgust. To bed early with a pretty high temperature & very bad head. Leopard wandering about not far off.

14 May 1902

Got away as usual at 6:30 and came right on to Nkala (abt 12 miles). Found only Morningham at Camp. Harris has gone to Mgayila's. Bracken has gone on part of way with Grey & was expected back today, but has not turned up. Handed over horse, saddle etc to Robert's care & gave him 24yds calico for its feed. Pryce arrived on Sat with carriers & has left 28 loads here - 2T going on to camp. Hear that Pryce has taken 15 blankets to pay carriers. Robert (Evangelist) has provided me with a room, milk, tomatoes etc. & is extremely civil & obliging. I am feeling quite well again today but a bit shaken by my fever of yesterday. Robert says he expects our goats to arrive here tomorrow.

15 May 1902

Spent a thoroughly miserable night. Robert said there were no mosquitoes to speak of - certainly what I said about them should not have been spoken! From 9pm to 3am, I varied between smoking, reading & mosquito hunting. I could not put up net without spading the floor! Got away at 6:30am & went for about 4 hours, camping on N. side of the big Vlei past Musa - about 14 miles.
On again at 2pm & shooting a pala ewe on way, came to where path leaves Kafue & camped about 4:30, about 22 miles in all.
In morning trek, I shot 5 guinea fowl; knocked another over - a long shot - but it fell in hopeless grass & I saw no more of it.
Could have shot more guineas & pala but did not as we have lots of meat. Look forward to a good night.

16 May 1902

Slept like a log! Started at 6:30 - cold morning & grass very wet with dew. Traveled for about 4 hours, passing Mtenka's where I bought grain - a lot of carriers on way to Nkala for Grey's goods. Outspanned where I lunched on 14 April & more boys passed for Grey's stores. They had note for me from Gielgud. I sent by them a note telling Carden that I have seen tsetse on road from Nkala in case he thinks of coming with horses to Mwenga. On again at 2pm, met several other parties of natives going as carriers for Grey. Took low path avoiding Kayingu's and at 5pm camped at stream near Ingwe's (???) old kraal. Saw no game all day - probably owing to so many people passing. Boys very tired; about 23 miles today. Should get in early tomorrow.

17 May 1902

Away at 6:30 - grass very wet. Came on abt 14 miles to Muyanga's where I found natives crossing on way to Nkala for Grey's loads. Passed out mail boys on road- going out. Crossed river leaving police to look after crossing of loads & came up to camp.
On coming insight, noticed that no flag was flying & gate was shut. Found that Gielgud had started this morning with all police except 3 for Sigariatombwi's who has been doing some more slave trading & also whose people refused point blank to produce carriers & sent no messenger with excuse. These people have been extremely independent & truculent for some time. Found several letters - W. ? Brown, Colin Campbell, Garbutt, Macauley, Tilney, and, from home, Mother, ???, (2), Barbara & Patrick. From latter I am more sorry than I can say to hear that he means to resign his commission & hopes for appointment as prison governor or Chief of Police. George has probably been married ere this - he and young woman going out to San F.
After a bath & food, determined to follow Gielgud, & taking William & 3 native workers as carriers, I started at 3:30pm & came straight on by moonlight to G.'s camp about 18 miles reaching it about 8pm. We are about 2 miles from kraal & can hear people singing & beating drums. Found G. fairly fit. He has had bad fever during my absence. I was very glad to reach camp after walking 23 miles today. Sat very late talking. Guard has orders to wake us at 4am.

18 May 1902

Lay in bed talking to G. till about 3am. Woke about 4am & after coffee, went on with all the police, leaving carriers behind, to kraal which we reached before sun-up. All the place deserted in night but we caught 2 or 3 natives in bush who told us people came & gave the alarm during night. Patrolled country round till about 10am & finding natives from Sibomba's, sent them to tell Sigariatombwi's people to come in to krall before noon tomorrow or krall will be destroyed. Kraal has just been built, about 1/2 mile from old one. Returned to kraal & camped inside sending back escort for carriers. Sibomba came in. Sentries posted round kraal as people might try a night attack. Police found beer in kraal & some became rather drunk & William so much so that he could not do his work & I knocked him down in sheer disgust!

19 May 1902

Remained in kraal till 2:30 when as Sigariatombwi had not complied with terms, his two main kraals were burned. A carrier to whom I had entrusted my revolver left it in one of the burning huts & the vulcanite handle was melted running into the lock. Cartridges exploded & some blowing back, twisted the chamber catch. Most annoying. Carriers had come in from Sibomba's & Tshinkuri's and at 2:50 left the kraal & came on to the headwaters of Mwenga where we camped for the night. Hope this action will have good effect on Sigariatombwi's people & on many others inclined to be too independent. Gielgud has slight fever - probably due to walking in hot sun.

20 May 1902

Away in good time & came into camp where we found that Bulibuli had sent in 24 people to carry for Grey. Other natives have also come in & were sent to Nkala as carriers for Farrel & Hook who are going north to examine Grey's mines. Very glad to be in camp again & look forward to a good night on my own bed. During my absence, G. has made many improvements to camp & has completed the "audience" hut & new store. Everything seems to be in better order & we are not so cramped for space as we used to be. Sampled Gielgud's new champagne at dinner - Gonlet '93 - and went sound asleep after it.

21 May 1902

Awoke feeling very seedy, my innards in a much perturbed condition. This got steadily worse &, fearing dysentery, I lay on my bed all afternoon. Gielgud could not have been kinder or more attentive. With milk, Brand's essence & dry biscuits as a diet, I hope this attack will pass off quickly. Bongolo came in with his induna, Tshaba, to get the kit he left on the waggon. He had to learn the bad news that the things had been stolen at the Falls. G. gave him some compensation. Boys working on new fence round police camp. Very strange weather - warm & a very stormy sky. Surely we can't have more rain at this date.

22 May 1902

Had a good night & got up feeling much better. Still have to be very careful about diet. Kept very quiet in camp all day. Mzogozwana sent to hunt returned in evening having seen no game. Gielgud worked for hours at repairing my revolver, burnt in fire at Sigariatombwi's, and has succeeded wonderfully. It will at least be reliable which at first seemed unlikely. People came in from Sigariatombwi's to make submission & apologise for their conduct. They undertook to send us carriers and also a slave bought recently by S., who will be returned to his relatives. Mail arrived from Nkala - nothing from S. of Zambezi. Letter from Coryndon asks G. to meet him on 1 June at Nanzila.

23 May 1902

Feeling quite fit again. Gielgud decided to start with patrol in direction of Siapela's and Kaundu's & proceed to Nkala to meet Coryndon on 1 June. I remain in camp & will probably go in time to see Coryndon at Nkala. Muyanga brought two paddles for sale. G. would not buy & M. eventually left me one as a present. G. got away about 3:30 after cutting my hair & I had cut his. Boys from Siamakanda's brought 2 letters from George Grey - one for Gielgud which I sent on to him, and one addressed to Bracken, Farrel or Hook -c/o Gielgud. Wrote to Sykes & Norton at Livingstone. Eight police left in Camp. Hope Bracken may turn up before I start for Nkala.

Temp: Max 102, Min 46

24 May 1902

The messenger whom I sent after G. yesterday with Grey's letter, returned this morning, bringing a reply, to be sent on to Grey first opportunity. Did some work in office, wrote to Mother & cleaned guns in morning, and, after lunch, bought over 2400 lbs grain from Penkeli's people. They are to bring in more on Monday. A messenger from Gielgud brought me inpart of a leg of reedbuck shot by G. this morning. A man from Muyanga's brought his daughter for treatment for a bed sore on her leg. I washed & dressed wound with carbolic & told them to come again tomorrow. Went to see that G.'s huts were all right & visited garden Things are not doing very well there - too cold at night & hot by day, I think.
Had old tomato plants removed from corner of fence in front of my bedroom.; they were do no good though for two years we have had a lot of fruit from them. Tomorrow I shall have the small part of fence, originally behind tomatoes, renewed. When I put up new fence some months ago, this part could not be done on account of the tomatoes.

Temp: Max 98, Min 45

25 May 1902

My inside seems to have gone all wrong again today! I am feeling very cheap. I tried to finish the repairs on my revolver; it works fairly well but is not right. Sent Tandugukla to hunt; he saw nothing. Had some indunas in - Mola, a man from Mzoan (???), and Siamabobo. Seventeen people came from Sigariatombwi's to go as carriers for Grey. They all proffered submission etc but they are a rotten lot, one can easily see, and want regular knocking out. I talked pretty straight to them. As it was evening, they will sleep here & start tomorrow for Nkala. I have given them note to Bracken (or O.C. Nkala) asking that if they arrive too late for loads, they may be kept till Gielgud arrives on the 31st. They brought in the slave woman, Mwanga. As her father is with G., she will remain with Tshibiyabi till his return.

Temp: Max 89, Min 62

26 May 1902

Two of the boys who came in yesterday from Sigariatombwi's have run away, the others started for Nkala. A subinduna of Siariatombwi's came in to express allegiance. Told him to get people to catch & bring in the two deserters. Bought about 2100 lbs grain from Penkeli's. Told people to send in 5 boys tomorrow to carry my kit to Nkala. An old man from Monateberue (???) made complaint of murder & kidnapping against a chief living near Monasitshonzi. The affair is more than a year old, but I promised to report to G. & leave it to him whether it is to be taken up. Wrote to Albert & Davey. Went to look at garden. Feeling pretty fit again today.

Temp: Max 89, Min 57

27 May 1902

Spent forenoon making out balance a/e of station. Cannot complete a/e without some information from Gielgud. Penkeli came & reported that his people refuse to supply 4 carriers to carry my kit to Nkala. I spoke very plainly to Penkeli & he was extremely apologetic. He promises to send in boys early tomorrow. I now cannot make a start before noon. A boy from Penkeli's asked for medicine for a sore on his leg. I gave him permanganate of potash, lint & bandage & told him how to use them. Tandagukla hunting in morning saw no game. In evening, went out to look for birds but saw nothing to shoot.

Temp: Max 83, Min 44

28 May 1902

Boys from Penkeli's did not turn up till noon & then only 3 came instead of 4. During forenoon, an eagle took one of our hens. I followed to guen to try for a shot but could not get near. Put up a pig near garden but only had shotgun. Gave Lara full directions, left note etc for Bracken & got away at 2pm. Crossing river took an hour & we only came on till 5pm, camping on N. side of first village. Overtaken here by Tabangana with letters from Kasempa which arrived after I had left - one for G. & one from Boger (???) for me. Jack has managed to knock half a toe off against a stump in road Tabangana sleeps here & returns to camp in morning.

Temp: Max 83, Min 44

29 May 1902

Away at 6:30. Shot a guinea fowl on road but lost it in long grass. Near Ingnu's (???) came on two reedbuck & shot one - a ram. Lost 1/2 hour cutting up, and came on till 11am, camping near water just before short path joins waggon road. Boys very late in coming up - Jack arriving at 12:30. Delay not due to his toe however - but to waiting at kraal to leave reedbuck skin which I gave him. Met mail from Nkala. Opened own parcel & took out letters - 2 from home for me, Mother & Barbara (March 7).
Also films from Lennon. Five letters for G. which I am taking on. Sent rest of mail on to camp. On again, a little before 3, & as I heard that a lot of Grey's carriers had arrived at Mtenka's. I decided to camp at last water before kraal which we did at 4:50.

30 May 1902

Started about 6:30. At Mtenka's found 2 Matabele & a large number of carriers. Note from Bracken asking Gielgud to again impress on carriers that they are engaged to go to Kanshanshi & not Kasempa's where they say they will stop. I did this but I fear words will have little effect after so long an interval. Gave Matabele in charge 2 letters from Gielgud to Grey. came on till 10am when I outspanned at Sanjolo's as I had to buy food for my people. Induna came to see me. On again at 1:30 & reached water below fort about sundown. As I did not want to arrive in camp at night, I camped here. Saw some guinea fowl but they seemed very wild. Very little firewood. About sundown, the mosquitoes were bad but went off at night. Shot a pheasant.

31 May 1902

While I was dressing, a large flock of guinea fowl suddenly flew over & settled in our camp. They went off quietly but I put them up & got 3. Moved on after sun was well up and soon reached Mission Stn where I found Bracken getting ready to start with his carriers for Kanshanshi. Gielgud soon rode up, having come from Kaundu's; he has kept some police to await us there.; brought about 60 carriers of whom Bracken takes 30 & others take our loads back to camp. We have made our scherms about 400yds behind mission station near water & on short grass.

 
June 1902  
1 June 1902

Sent off our carriers with loads to await us at Kaundu's. Comfortable night. Bracken started in morning and sleeps near fort. At breakfast we saw a cavalcade coming across the vlei & soon after Mr Coryndon, Farrel Consulting Engineer of Tanganyika Conc.,, & Capt. Hook arrived. The latter 2 are going on to Kanshanshi where F. is to examine the mines. They are traveling with mule waggon & buggy. Harris came down from the Fort & we all lunched & dined together. This is Gielgud's birthday & we celebrated it with a couple of bottles of Gonlet '93 which G. brought with him. On way from Kalomo, Coryndon shot a lioness & the waggon driver another which appeared to be about to attack the waggon. Coryndon & Farrel sleep at Mission & Hook came on to camp. Hook found he was short of limbo & whisky for journey north & as more carriers have come in, they sent out for Bracken to return & I arranged for him to leave things at Mwenga Camp.

2 June 1902

Hook had breakfast with us. We went to Mission & saw Bracken before he left. Coryndon came to our camp & interviewed indunas who came with G. Harris paraded his police. A white trader arrived with a horse for sale which Coryndon bought.
After talking to G., Coryndon offered me D.Cship of Kafue Dist. as soon as official news of transfer arrives. £500 a year with £70 allowances. G. has applied in same event to go as D.C. to Kasempa, at his present pay. Coryndon does not want me to take leave before November. After lunch, we started for home, Hook & Farrel accompanying us. I rode Farrel's mule & he drove down to river in his cart. They leave waggon & cart at Nkala & go on with 2 mules & 50 carriers whom we got for them. Reached Nosenana's (???) at sundown & camped. Induna brought food.

3 June 1902

After early breakfast, we moved down to river & got everything across in 2 Govt. & 3 native canoes. One mule gave trouble & looked like drowning. Farrel is a nervous person & does not enjoy the little risks of his journey. After crossing, came on to Kaundu's, about 2 miles, & outspanned. People here had caught one of our deserters - a violent person who stabbed one of his captors. He got 25 & 2 months work in camp. In afternoon we did about 6 miles to war kraal of some of Kaundu's slaves & camped for night. Sent on patrol to Simkwayila's to try and capture a man charged with kidnapping. Mail overtook us - lots of papers - letter from O'Keefe, nothing from home. Boots for Gielgud.

4 June 1902

On again as usual. G. went through veldt after lunch and shot 3 B. Zebra & overtook us at Siamajogo's (about 10 miles), where we camped. G., Hook & I all hunted in evening but no-one got a shot. I think old Farrel was pretty tired as he walks always instead of riding. I fancy he funks the mule! Siamajogo, Sapelu & other chiefs came in to camp & brought large presents of grain, beer & potatoes.

5 June 1902

Came on to Penkeli's (about 8 miles). On way I shot a B. Zebra stallion & a duiker ewe. Just as well I got the latter as we were out of meat for our own use. Induna brought large present. G. choked his people off for refusing to turn out to work when told by Penkeli. Last night, Funkwi & Dick deserted camp & were found in village by picket we sent. They were brought up today & Funkwi fined 5/-.. On in afternoon to Uungwi River for night. Farrel slipped on pole crossing stream (Lion River) and got a wetting. Got my cheek cut by running against G.'s rifle when he stopped suddenly on path.

6 June 1902

Came right into Camp & soon after our arrival, Bracken turned up from across river. Farrel glad to rest. I entered out new supplies - limbo etc. into store. Paid off carriers. Hook sleeps in epau (???) but, as he has no bed, Farrel in office & Bracken in my room. Dick gave us quite a decent dinner & G. produced champagne. G. goes on tomorrow to Bulibuli with H. & F. in case there should be trouble about crossing.

7 June 1902

Bracken went off early to cross river & soon a note arrived from him saying that 16 carriers (from Harris's district) had deserted & asking us to look after 16 loads which Muyanga brought over later in the day. I paid Muyanga & his people 3 1/2 yds. Farrel & Hook went off after breakfast. I photographed them & promised Hook to send his wife a copy of the photo. He gave me the address, viz.
Mrs. G. Blair Hook, c/o Tom L. Blaine Esq., Wauldley, Kei Road, near King William's Town.

8 June 1902

Still feeling very seedy. Made up Govt. Trade Goods account to date. Complaint by Sinasipeto of Siboluma's against Nyumba. Remains in camp until Nyumba is summoned. Wrote to Davey & sent by his 2 natives, 1 1/2 doz jam, 1 doz bars B.M. soap & 10 lbs rice.

9 June 1902

Mail from Kasempa's passed this morning, also mail from Nkala going North. Letter from Garbutt. Sent off patrol under Nkunzi (10) to visit Sigariatombwi & also to summon Nyumba. Two men arrived with load of calico for Nkala Mission from Bracken. By Bracken's direction, I took out 3 1/2 yds to repay what I gave Muyanga & sent the rest on with load to Nkala. Promised them 4 yds each by Bracken's direction.

10 June 1902

Nothing happened in camp today! I wrote most of day. Completed pay vouchers for police who are time expired an 21 June. Wrote to Colonel Harding, to Mother & Patrick, telling them of Coryndon's offer of District Commissionership. For the last night or two, there has been great drumming & singing going on at Muyanga's and tonight it is more noticeable than ever. One can almost hear the words of the songs in camp though the singers are a mile away. I am told that the people are celebrating the death of a boy from Muyanga's who went to work at some mine in Matebeleland and who has died there.

11 June 1902

Nkunzi & his patrol returned this morning accompanied by Nyumba &, a little later, several of Sigariatombwi's headmen arrived. After lunch, interviewed them. They expressed loyalty & an intention to obey orders. They are rebuilding their huts. I discovered that Shinasipeta's (sic) complaint against Nyumba dates back 3 years and therefore dismissed the case. Told Sigariatombwi's people to bring in the 2 men who ran away from work on 26 May. In the evening, I hunted & missed a running shot at a reedbuck at 200yds in long grass - I could only see the ears! Wrote to Munro, Lockhart & made up parcel of exposed cartridges of films for Lennon.

Temp: Max 89, Min 40

12 June 1902

Hunted in morning, through home guen & guens south of camp & home by Kafue. Came on herd of Hartebeeste & 3 cartridges in succession missed fire. Herd spotted me & went off. Followed a long way & only once got a glimpse of them running in bush. Saw no more game. These bad cartridges are a frightful nuisance & make one look forward to possible lion hunt with no confidence. Shortly after reaching home, developed a bad headache which remained all day till after dinner when it passed off. Went to garden & put boys on removing dry grass near the hedges to prevent gardens burning when grass is fired. Found that some boy has been trying one of my razors and has cut my strop!

Temp: Max 87, Min 29

13 June 1902

Sent Geleza to hunt. He saw some Sable & fired two shots but missed. Gielgud arrived in forenoon; he seems very fit. Farrel & Hook got across river all right chiefly owing to G.'s presence. G. has shot a good many buck on this trip - 6 I think. We spent the afternoon writing in the office. Last night's temperature - 29 - is lowest we have had here. All tomatoes have been spoilt by the frost. Had a fire made in the compound & sat at it after dinner. A donkey & a colt died - the former I think certainly from fly and the colt from ???, finished by the sudden cold last night.

14 June 1902

This is the proper mail day but we decided to send it tomorrow as G. had not finished writing. He is writing to London board a criticism of present position in this country generally. (Letter believed to be this). Sent off patrol to summon carriers from district between Sigariatombwi and Monatshianda to go with us to Siapula's. Two parades - at latter, in evening, police fired at a mark, making poor practice. After dinner, I dictated G.'s letter for him to write out. This took us to near midnight. Grass fires all round horizon.

Temp: Max 90, Min 34

15 June 1902

Sent off mail first thing. Boy who looks after cattle on island has been very slack, letting calf get at cow, so we got no milk. He was mildly chastised with a sjambok & a new boy sent over to the island. G. made new box for "Jacob" the mongoose, much larger than his old place. In afternoon, a messenger came up from natives on river that a hippo was going about, chasing boats when people crossed. I went down an got a shot at about 150yds. Hit it in the head, I think, for the hippo turned clean over and sank with legs sticking up. He soon seemed to recover however. I followed, missed once & hit once again, I think. People are to look for hippo tomorrow.
Temp: Max 90, Min 34

16 June 1902

News came from river that hippo has turned up again in old place. We sent Mawinduna to try to shoot it. On return, he said he thought he had killed it. I remained in camp & copied out a long letter from G. to Board, copy to be sent to Coryndon. Siamabobo came in. G. told him, as he had sent no carriers before, to send some now. The old fool pretended not to understand till the sight of a sjambok made him more acute & he promised to tell his people. Buzimbuli came back with patrol and about 10 carriers to go with us tomorrow to Siapela's. G. rearranged medicines in store.

17 June 1902

Police paraded & G. told them that if other police are on way here, they must remain till relieved, but otherwise they will be discharged on return from patrol. They made the extraordinary proposal that in order to avoid necessity of returning to camp, they should go on patrol without rifles! We put out stores for the patrol in the morning and, after lunch, finished preparation. Lara & 2 police remain in camp. Those at Silver King Mine have been recalled. Sent off carriers & police about 3pm & about 4, G. & I followed. Great push in making final arrangements. Left natives in camp to bring on any letters which may arrive. Found camp made on N. side of Uungwi River we reached after dark. Police have brought all their possessions and carry them themselves, looking like furniture vans!

18 June 1902

Sent on police early to Penkeli's to get carriers for their kits etc. As people of kraal had recently refused to turn out, police were told to collect all people they can. After breakfast, we followed with carriers. Reached Penkeli's & outspanned. Bought food. Police had about 25 natives of whom we took 14 to go to Siapela's to be paid 1yd each. Penkeli, Monasiboba & Lendima (from near Lukenti's (???)) came to see us. Monasiboba proposed a general meeting of chiefs on our return to make agreement as to people working for money instead of limbo, so that labour employers may be warned in time. About 2pm we went on passing many new kraals at Siakwema's and camped near water before descending to Siapenuka's (???) old kraal.

19 June 1902

Got away a little after sunup. Passed a lot of very long grass. On some burnt, G. saw some Hartebeeste & I stalked them. Took fright & went off. My second shot brought bull down with broken spine. They stood again at about 150 yds & I got another - a cow - through the lungs. Camped near - below Lion Kop on E. Side of river. People from small village near came & we gave them meat. On again early & came on burning grass as we passed - to Silumbiji's where we camped in old gardens. Met some boys on way who had gone some days ago to try & buy cattle. Penkeli, who is coming to show the police the cattle they bought from him, overtook us here & goes on with us tomorrow. Silumbiji, a diseased looking old beast & stone deaf, came to see us.

20 June 1902

Away as usual & came across the big plain leaving a fine trail behind us. Saw no game but quite fresh buffalo spoor. Reached Siapela's & camped at our cattle camp. Siapela came & brought food. Says 11 of his men have gone to B'wayo to work since Coryndon & G. spoke of hut tax at Nkala. We have pitched big tent & are sleeping in it, feeding in the hut. Boys, sent to Nkala to bring horse, arrived here yesterday. They also bring calf from Mission & bag of lemons. We are sending William tomorrow to Livingstone to help Vaiboom with waggon and I wrote to Norton about the arrangements. Mail arrived. Boots from home for me & parcel from Busby containing trousers & 6 pairs of socks. Still no news about new police or arrangements for the ???
Shot a guinea fowl. Funkwi agreed to remain & work for me till I go on leave. Promised him £2, 10/- per month.

21 June 1902

William started for V. Falls with 2 Bayila to help him with waggon should Vaiboom be too sick to work. Boys from Penkeli's who came to carry police kits were paid off and left for home. By them, we sent back the clothes & boots which came by mail yesterday. During forenoon, we went to kraal to look at our cattle. There are here 6 cows, 1 Bull, 1 bullock & 2 calves, all marked X on right flank. Also saw cattle bought by police/. Buzimbila (???) had bought an old cow - for a long price - & it certainly looked as if it would never stand the cold journey South. G. therefore gave him a bullock & a yearling calf instead. The number of cattle above were counted after this transaction. Besides cattle at Siapela's, we have a cow & calf at Muyanga's. About 2pm we packed up & got away, leaving Tanjana at the cattle camps in charge of the police kits. came on burning grass on way, past Siamayinda's to River Batshase where we camped for night. In crossing another river, first after Siapela's, I was being carried across by Tshibi when he slipped on some stones & came down. I tried to kick my legs free but he gallantly stuck to them, thereby letting me sit down in water up to the waist. I cut my right hand in about 10 places on the stones. People from Siamayinda's brought grain to night camp. Everybody very civil & apparently delighted to see us - they all are till something is wanted from them! On way, G. & I both missed a duiker ram.

22 Jun 1902

Heavy dew at night. Wolf made a horrible roar in the river near, which somehow got converted into the roaring of a lion in my dream & gave me a great hunt! Away as normal. G. went after some Zebra but got none. He hit a pala but was alone & lost it in the grass. I went with column &, on outspanning, I took horse & rode to Mayenda's to select place for camp. Induna & a lot of people met me about a mile from kraal. We camped in shade near water just below main kraal. G. talked to people about preparing for hut tax, which all undertook to do. In afternoon, G. hunted, going East. He shot a Zebra & a wildebeest - the latter is the first we have seen or heard of this side of the Kafue. People say it swam from S. side. I went out after birds & got a guinea fowl & a pheasant. Shot about 8 others but lost them in the grass & bush. People brought a lot of food, milk & firewood & were given a large quantity of meat.

23 Jun 1902

Away after breakfast. G. went on ahead to hunt. On starting, one of the natives who was going with him tried to bolt. G. galloped after him on the horse, much to the man's horror & the others delight. Came on about 4 m to Nangulwa's & camped near the big pond. I shot 3 duck here on arriving, a right & a lef6t & a single. G. burning grass as he went, arrived soon after me. His fires came down on us, the thick grass & scrub burned hot & fast. We had to collect everything in clearing & burn behind us. Nangulwa, Siamajogo & other chiefs came down & the usual talk about hut tax took place. Our man, who was slightly implicated in the bad treatment of Boijes (???) early in the year, was reprimanded & warned. G. saw no game out hunting. On again about 1:45 and came on about 4 or 5 miles to pool of water. Burned grass & camped. I rode out to hunt but grass was awful & I saw nothing. G. shot a pheasant near camp.

24 Jun 1902

Very heavy dew in night. Started after 8am and came on, burning grass on way, past Mienakili's kraal, where induna turned out to meet us. Took on guide and taking path on west of kraal, passed great patches of thick bush & reached water in vlei abt 9 miles, at 11 o'clock. I had great fire before camping. Induna Monaganyama followed us with people & food. Hut tax talk again.
Photographed a group of naked Bayila. Started again about 3, and, in an hour, reached river, on other bank of which is Mauwn's kraal. Police who were showing path, like fools now mentioned that river was too big to ford. We found two frightful canoes, very unstable & leaking like the devil. Crossed by degrees & were met by people from kraal. Camped under fig tree about 200yds from village. People came & prepared ground, brought food & firewood. People told to come in tomorrow to settle Boijers business. Sleeping in tent as dew is likely to be heavy here!

25 Jun 1902

Early in the morning, police were sent to kraal to see that cattle were not taken away. They did not understand order & went to all villages in neighborhood, leaving camp with very small force & becoming much scattered. Crowds of natives arrived in camp & eventually were summoned. Told that they had to pay 5 cows for the attack on Baijer, they seemed quite relieved. dispute between two rival headmen settled - Nalagnpa & Sintskui (???) - former chosen unanimously. Next to kraal with G. & branded the five cows paid as fine - XX on right flank. Penkeli has been most useful in explaining things to these particularly wild people.
I had sham fight of police for natives benefit, firing & advancing in extended order. Msulwi (???) the paramount chief, after indaba, asked for medicines for a bad sore. Given to him. In evening, G. & I went out after pheasants. I got 4 & lost 2. G. got 1 & lost 2 guineas. Cattle, 5 head, brought by police from natives. Native who took spears to police on patrol today was flogged.

26 Jun 1902

In early morning, we sent people down to cross river and, after breakfast, we followed to drift & crossed. We managed the business much better & quicker than the other day, by tying long ropes to each end of canoe & dragging it back & forward. Brought the cattle with us and outspanned where we stopped at midday on 24th. On again, meaning to camp at Mienakila's. G. rode off to hunt & I, going on with boys, first saw some reedbuck, but got no shot, then a herd of pig which I missed at 150yds. Then I saw 2 Reedbuck & stalked & shot both. G. overtook us here on horse, he had killed an Eland cow & a Zebra stallion and had seen Roan & Hartebeeste on veld we burned when passing. We went back, after sending on boys with cattle & camped near Eland, where there was a big pool of water. G. had hit some other Eland & means to follow tomorrow. About 100yds from scherms, we found fresh lion spoor on top of Eland spoor. The lion had bolted on hearing G.'s shooting. Sent message to Mienakila's to send people tomorrow for meat.

27 Jun 1902

G. went off in morning to follow spoor of wounded Eland. I went to body of Zebra on chance of lion being at it. Found it undisturbed. Heard lion roaring about 2 miles away & went in the direction. Coming to a belt of frightfully thick bush, gave it up. Saw lots of old buffalo spoor and some about 2 days old. Fresh Roan, Eland, Zebra, Hartebeeste & pig spoor. Shot an oribi ram & got back to scherm feeling rather groggy with a bad tummy ache. G. soon returned having found an Eland cow dead about 2 m from where he shot it yesterday. In afternoon, we went on to Mienakila's whose people had arrived to take the meat. Camped near village where we found Lara who had come from Mwenga to meet us. Also found Makatula & Sipolelwa with another complaint against Nanjiwa. On way, G. shot at this years Eland - evidently the calf of a cow shot yesterday. It was kinder to kill it as otherwise a wolf would probably have killed it. People from village brought food & wood & having borrowed a drum, our carriers, well fed & therefore happy, had a great dance.

28 Jun 1902

Heavy dew - we were sleeping very near water. After breakfast, we heard Sipolelwa's complaint - that Nanjiwa has not given back the people raided by him. Decided to go to Nanjiwa's, and, leaving cattle at village, we started. About 2 hours out, after reaching the big Abiyila (???) plains which we crossed last year, we found water & outspanned. Had to burn grass & started a fire which is traveling all over the country. Lunched & started again, after passing a few small kraals, we reached Mueswa's Nyambo(???) - about 6 miles. People were very sullen in their reception of us last year, but today their behavior was very different. Induna & people came out to meet us. There are no trees here, so we camped in the open. People brought food & a little firewood, of both of which they are extremely short. G. arranged for our carriers etc to sleep in the kraal. Sent police the trade blankets as there is so little firewood. From here, the Nyambala hills are distinctly seen & the 2 hills, one of Tshanaonbi's & the other of Siakumbila's, indistinctly. With glasses one can also see the green reeds on the Kafue & the guens on the other side. There are some fine cattle at Nyambo's - some of them big - Barotse. Induna says there are a lot of Lechwe not very far from here. We may stop on our return journey & try and shoot some. Neither G. nor I have ever got a Lechwe. We find that Nyambo is name of district & Mueswa name of Induna we have hitherto called Nyambo.

29 Jun 1902

Induna came to camp before we started. Came on to Mtshalilo River beside Siamagopa's & Simkowega's (???) kraals. This is on road by which we returned last year from Siakumbilo's (???). Here, after a quick lunch, we turned to N. instead of crossing river & made for Maulusi's where Sipolelwa's kraal also is. Decided to camp here & send for Nanjiwa, as firewood is scarce at his place and fairly plentiful here. People seem friendly enough here. We burned lot of grass on way, and the fire came along fast after us, threatening the peoples' grain stores. After repeated warnings, however, they turned out & burned the grass round them. Camped in garden beside Maulusi's kraal. Hear that Mulumba - a blind man - is the paramount chief here, Maulusi being one of his men.

30 Jun 1902

Early, we sent off patrol of 20 men to Nanjiwa's to summon him or bring him if necessary. Taking guides from kraal, G. & I went off to hunt. G. riding. Saw big herd of Roan & was stalking them - about half a mile - when I heard several shots & found that G. had got onto herd. They came across me a long way off & I tried to run out to cut them off but without success. G. soon came up - he had shot 5, 2 bull & 3 cows & I took the horse & went after the herd. Got to ant heap about 150yds from where they stood & after missing very badly several shots, got one which I thought was a big bull - running. It proved, however, to be a cow. Went after herd again & got to about 70yds, but did not shoot again. Back abt 2:30. Nanjiwa came in with police. He acknowledged having retained 4 women & was fined 2 cattle & 2 for each person to be returned, for each person is given back to Sipolelwa.

July 1902  
1 Jul 1902

Nanjiwa slept in camp, not a prisoner but under guard. This morning, he went off with police patrol to get the head of cattle. G. remained in camp to skin head of one of his Roan bulls & I went to hunt with horse. Struck some herd of Roan near same place. Knocked one over - a cow again, thinking it was a bull, and went after herd. Missed some running shots and got another cow, shooting her through neck & spine. As I was near Nanjiwa's, I sent back boys to get people for meat & rode on with Klagan (???) to kraal. Found police sitting in kraal doing nothing. Told induna to pick out 10 cows. As he made considerable difficulty, I told police to do it. Came back bringing cattle & induna. Induna looked very savage & was clearly meditating refusing to come. Long grass near kraal, where, if people had wanted to do so, they might have made a good show to rescue cattle. Home for lunch. Another indaba with Nanjiwa & people. Terms of fine explained again.
Found that Lennon has sent films of wrong size for my camera. I now have none left.

2 Jul 1902

Broke up camp & started at 7:30, to return via Msulwi's, the shorter path. Reached latter place at 9 & took over 2 hours to cross river - wind high & boat very bad, we nearly had some upsets. Came on to our old noon outspan. Away again at 2:45, G. riding ahead. He got onto a big lot of Eland where I shot the 2 Reedbuck, & went after them. We heard him shooting at an enormous distance from the path. Sun was getting low, so I sent on cattle with scout to Mianakila's & waited; hearing "coo-eees", I sent boys along path to answer. Again I heard shouting far off in another direction & went off with Mjamela to try & find G. Came on Roan bull & broke shoulder. Met Bongolo, whose shouts after he had lost G., we heard. Gave up following Roan till tomorrow and came back to boys on path, where I had told them to camp. Found G. had returned. He had a great chase after Eland bull, wounding it & cutting it out. Rode it to a standstill but had no cartridges left to finish it. It came for horse which bolted & fell, and Eland literally trod on G.

3 Jul 1902

Early breakfast & we started out, G. to look for his Eland & I for my Roan. Slow going as ground is hard. Found about 6 places where the Roan had lain down. Lost spoor after following for about 3 hrs; nearing Mianakila's, shot 2 Reedbuck - ram & ewe. Came in on path leading to Nyambo. Met rest of boys coming in from night camp. G. had found fresh buffalo spoor and had sent back to night camp for blankets, food etc., meaning, I suppose, to follow buffalo. I camped in our old place & put up tent as dew was heavy when we were here before. Sent boys to sleep in kraal as lions were going about close last night. People brought food & firewood. Hope G. may bring in some meat for them tomorrow as a lot of boys went out today on chance of his having killed yesterday. Cow arrived belonging to Mbango, from Copper Mines. Cattle sleeping in kraal. Saw Eland & Roan on way here. No post arrived as we hoped it would.

4 Jul 1902

Went out about 7 to hunt in bushy country to E. of kraal. Saw Roan bull long way off & in stalking it, came on single big (boar) which I shot. Got up to Roan & bagged him after va short chase, hitting him 4 times - 2 in neck, 1 in rump & 1 in shoulders. Even then he tried hard to go for us but couldn't manage it. While skinning, boy saw some pala & I went out & got 2 - one I took for a ram as it stood in shade. Both ewes. G. turned up in afternoon. He had followed buffalo for 7 hours, but they were evidently trekking out of the district & he turned back. He shot a Roan for food for people with him. Today he shot an Eland cow on way here. People went out and brought meat, most of which we gave to people at kraals.

5 Jul 1902

Got away in good time. Saw a big Roan bull on plain & G. rode up but could not get close. I had shot at a roan about 100yds but missed. Reached Nangulwa's and stopped for lunch. People brought food. Going on, G. rode out to right of path, to look for game for people of kraal. I went on with our people & on way shot a young Hartebeeste bull & a pala ram. Sent former back to kraal. Reached Mayinda's about 3:20 and made camp. G. arrived about 5 with an immense following of women from kraals, who kept up a deafening noise as they went along. Did some more work on head skin of Roan. The horse is rather bad tonight; looks as if he was griped, probably eating too much wet grass in the pools. G. gave him some salt & water and he seemed much relieved. Dick played truant again going up to kraal. Patrol sent for him & he sleeps in guard scherm.

6 Jul 1902

Horse seems much better today. G.'s liver evidently much out of order, as before starting, he displayed quite undeserved & inconsequent bad temper to me. However, I suppose these little things must be put up with and a "Secretary" is at somewhat of a disadvantage. Got away about 7:20 & after 11, reached Batshasi R. for noon. On way, G. shot an oribi ewe & made a great attack on a herd of monkeys, shooting 5, & catching a young one which died soon after, having received a bad bruise on the back. Came on to Siapela's & camped at our cattle kraal. On way, I fired several shots at some oribi, hitting one but got none. Found mail at Siapela's. No official news about police or Hook but evidently no Matabele are to be sent. G. therefore told boys they would be discharged, after returning rifles, at Mwenga R. They seemed much pleased. Letter from A.W.W.. Mbango & contingent from Mines arrived today here.

7 Jul 1902

Busy all day making out pay vouchers etc. Wrote to Harris telling him police will cross at Kaundu's about the 14th inst. I am to go back with police to camp tomorrow, to take our rifles etc. G. will remain here until they return, then see them & cattle across Kafue & come back via Siamajogo's to Camp. G. in morning branded cattle. Gov. branded xx, Private x, and those detained from Nanjiwa, I , all on right flank. Discovered that our flour is practically finished, so I must return to camp without any bread & send down supplies to G. After police go, we shall have 5 - those who came up in Dec. Funkwi remains also but as my private servant.

8 Jul 1902

Got away at 8:30 with police & 12 carriers. G. remaining with Nbangma, Mkusmana & Veletshena & the other carriers. At buffalo pools, struck to left & reached Bunka's path. Outspanned 12:30 at river which passes Lion Kop, lower down. On again at 2:40 & about 5 reached the old Siapela's where I camped for night. Missed shot at pig in morning & saw some LH a long way from the path but did not shoot. On reaching main path, saw spoor of lot of natives going south & print of a pair of boots. Probably Grey's Matabele going down. Can't profess to like living without bread - I have no sweet potatoes even but will buy them tomorrow at Penkeli's. One carrier "tklulegieli" (???) on way & had to send a boy back to bring him on. Should sleep at Uungwi R tomorrow& get in early on Thursday.

9 Jul 1902

Away at 6:45, came past Siakwema's new kraal to Penkeli's & camped in trees on N. side at 9:45. Saw no game. Monasiboba brought food - amongst which were potatoes which will do instead of bread for me. Away again at 2pm, burning grass as we came along. Camped on home side of Uungwi River in our old scherm soon after 4:00. Delayed on way by following some Hartebeeste, at which I had a running shot but got none. Otherwise, we could probably have got into camp today. At midday, outspan. One of Sipolelwa's people who was sick yesterday & today is unable to carry, asked for permission to remain at Penkeli's. I paid him off, gave him medicine & left him at kraal to go home when fit. Sent on two boys to prepare for our arrival in Camp tomorrow. Two boys from Penkeli's have come to carry horns etc. for G. to B'wayo with police.

10 Jul 1902

Away before 7. On way tried to stalk some L.H. but they got wind & went off. Reached camp soon after 9. Arranged stores etc. for G. Wrote to Lennon re wrong sized films & to Mother. Took in police rifles etc. Issued 1 rifle & bandolier, 20 rnds ammunition & 3 hatchets to police, paid of 3 carriers from Mayinda's, gave loads of G.'s horns etc. to boys from Penkeli's. Gave police a present of tobacco. After lunch they went off. Gave Funkwi my old shooting coat. Paid of Dick & took on Silomo in his place at 10/- a month. Macelis reports 2 donkeys dead during patrol. Kept on to work in camp boys who brought my loads. Note from Harris, Nkala. Mail should have arrived today. Some of Grey's people & police passed day before yesterday. Left G.'s book on Anthropology.

11 Jul 1902

Lions roaring in 2 places at considerable distance last night. Mail arrived from Nkala - letter for me from Jack Murray, dated May 19th. He was then a corporal & in charge of Fort 'Mpateni. In the morning I sent off 2 boys with note for G. to await him at Kaundu's, enclosing £2 which Nkunzi gave to boys going to Nkala, for purpose of buying cattle & which they brought back after police had left yesterday. Burned grass around camp. Mended small folding table in office. Counted & put away cartridges handed in by police yesterday - 560 rounds. Got bitten on finger by mongoose "Jacob" when trying to catch him & return him to cage. Wrote to Jack Murray.

12 Jul 1902

Macebo found one of the native workers in Camp (Makando of Tapula's) in possession of a hen which he had stolen from us and prepared to eat. He could say nothing in excuse & I had him whacked. Very quiet day in camp. I examined the loads left here by Bracken & found them all right so far as external appearance goes. No white ants. Hung up bandoliers in Trade Goods store.

13 Jul 1902

Hunted all morning from 6:15 till 12:30 & did not fire a shot. Saw 2 lots of Hartebeeste, a Reedbuck & fresh Eland spoor which I followed for miles but grass was so long & dry that it was impossible to get near game. Burned a lot of grass & walked home in front of fire which came along roaring behind, but we were easily able to keep ahead. Bulibuli came in to pay his respects. Boy came from Muyanga's with a bad sore on his leg. I dressed it & told boy to come back tomorrow. Donkeys are being grain fed night & morning as grass feed is so bad. Saw lion spoor on path through "home" guen but I think it was fairly old. Lions were quite near one night while we were away. Grass fires burning heavily tonight.

14 Jul 1902

Started soon after 6am to hunt. Went through guens behind camp to Eland Vlei where I lit a fire that should cover a lot of country. Turned towards Kafue. Shot a pig and coming on through thick country, lit grass & was going ahead of fire when I saw 2 Koodoo bulls at about 250 yds also running from fire. I tried a chance shot & missed. Followed spoor for miles with no result. Came on Eland bull and as he ran, hit him square behind shoulder but rather far back. Again hit in rump. Followed blood spoor to Eland Vlei & marked place to follow tomorrow. Saw 2 Hartebeeste in guen on way home. Arrived about 3:30. Mail arrived from Nkala. Letter from L.R.A (Cannes), & Sykes. People from Mtenti's visited camp.

15 Jul 1902

Bulawayo Chronicle wich came with mail yesterday announces that Peace treaty with Boers was signed on May 31. Finding that I had overlooked some M.H. cartridges when putting away in store the other day, I again rearranged them. Sent Manguba this morning to follow spoor of Eland I wounded yesterday. He followed it for hours & had to give up. Eland appeared to be going strong & had stopped several times to feed. Bullet must have missed lungs.
Native called Tshibalu from island near Galilo's made complaint against Mera (near Kandunga). Affair was five years old & I refused to interfere. High wind all day. Boy with sore on leg - also another with same complaint - came again & I dressed their sores.

16 Jul 1902

Boys came again & 2 dressed their legs. These good people seem rather to regard this doctoring as part of one's business!
Nothing exciting happened in camp. Boy made complaint against Nyumba.
In evening, Gielgud returned with the 3 police who remained with him. Our force now numbers the great total of 5.

17 Jul 1902

Decided to send of messengers to Nkala with letter for mail. Writing great part of day. G. wrote applying for leave & also to Secretary, Kalomo asking for escort of B.N.P. or N.M.'s. Thought of writing to Coryndon asking for official memorandum of his offer of DCship but eventually decided not to do so at present. Made up roll of exposed film for Lennon & wrote to them to send copy of films in which Hook appeared, to his wife, as Hook asked me to do. Wrote to H. W. Garbutt. Tapula visited camp. Finished reading "The Luck of the Vails" by E. F. Benson, sent by Garbutt. Was much instructed. G. not very fit - slight attack of fever each day about noon.

18 Jul 1902

Sent off boys with letter for Nkala, also some papers etc. for Harris. Soon after 6am, I started to hunt with 2 Bayila. Went through thick country S. of Camp. Saw koodoo spoor of last night. Shot a pig. Back soon after 9am.
Patrol of police left to bring in Nyumba against whom a complaint has been made. G. wrote report of our patrol. Penkeli came in and received a blanket in recognition of his services on last patrol. About sundown, boy reported reedbuck near camp (S.W.). I went out and got one, hitting it 2 times & eventually running it down. Tonight we have only one policeman in camp.

19 Jul 1902

I was writing in the office during most of the day making 2 copies of G.'s report. Two natives brought complaints which G. investigated. Boys were put to work preparing ground in the old garden at the Mwenga, which should do well in dry weather, though always flooded in the rains. Mtanti & Mola visited camp.
The patrol sent to summon Nyumba has not returned as ordered. I hope nothing has happened to them. The two complainants of today were Monamayinda of Siagamzila against Munakatwa of Shankonko's - and Mdaga of Lukento's against Maiyanda of Sijanda's (between Kayinda's & Monasitebonzi).

20 Jul 1902

Patrol returned accompanied by Nyumba & G. settled claim against him of Siampogolo - that N. must rteturn S.'s wife when he pays him 4 blankets as lobola. Monasiboba arrived in camp and agrred to send messengers to Sejanda's to summon him to Camp. One of Muyanga's boys succeeded in recovering G.'s fishing rod which was lost in river when canoe with Grey upset. Boy was given a blanket as promised. Reel required some patching & cleaning but works all right. Line was rotten & rod rather damaged. Muyanga visited camp.
In evening, G. & I went on river. G. fished but caught nothing. Began reading the "Newcomes" which I am ashamed to say I have never finished though I have begun it several times. Sky unseasonally cloudy.

21 Jul 1902

G. hunted in morning & shot a Hartebeeste, getting back soon after 11. I remained in camp and did some sewing that has been waiting for the spirit to move me. Mended a pair of breeks & sewed my field glass case & a pair of boots. Went to River with G. in evening. He fished & caught 3 (2 bream, & a tiger). Mail should be in tomorrow, boys have been away 4 days today.

22 Jul 1902

Gielgud went fishing after breakfast while I remained in camp writing letters; wrote to JyA. (???) & Natalie. G. sent up for rifle & got a shot at hippo in River but did not kill it. He caught 4 fish, one a good bream, about 4 lbs. Muiyola sent boys to camp & was given meat. Siakwena visited camp. In evening, we went down to garden by the Mwenga & sowed seeds. Mail arrived in evening. No official news of interest. Letter from Leslie Boase for me. Funkwi's young woman arrived in camp but he says he doesn't like her & is sending her home tomorrow! Prints of my photos from Lennon by mail. Some quite good but several failures.

23 Jul 1902

Writing letters for mail to start tomorrow. Sent cheque to Busby, £1. 11/- for the last things - trousers, socks, etc. - sent me. Wrote to Macauley, Kasempa's, and sent him copy of photo of himself & Mobbs leaving camp on donkey & mule. Hear that Lenies (???) recently passed through Siapela's with some other white men & 2 mule carts on way to N. C. Co. I hear also he means to form depot at Siamayinda's. Horns & head skins left at Siapela's came today. I am going out this evening to look for koodoo, taking a blanket, food & 5 boys. Shall sleep out & hunt very early tomorrow.

24 Jul 1902

Got back to camp about 12:30pm, having seen no koodoo & shot a L. Hartebeeste & a duiker. I also unfortunately killed a Hartebeeste calf about 2 days old. I did not see it as it stood in grass behind the other & the bullet hit both. Sent boys out for meat & near the Hartebeeste, they came on a big koodoo bull which bolted. Awfull luck! One of Sigariatombwi's runaways (from Bracken) came & gave himself up. Not flogged as he came of his own accord but to work in camp for 2 months. Fished with G. in evening using Archie Spinner & natural bait, we caught 4 good sized bream. G. also caught 2 or 3 this morning. Archie Spinner more successful than any other we have tried. Played chess at night & I won. Mail left for Nkala.

25 Jul 1902

G. fished in forenoon and got 2 or 3 good bream. Spent most of afternoon hearing case of Mdaga against Lwenga of Sijanda's, the latter having come in with Monasiboba. Sikomo came in & got choked off for not seeing that our second canoe at Bulibuli's is completed. In evening, I went to garden & put labels where we sowed the other day. Played cribbage in evening with G.

26 Jul 1902

After breakfast, I went to River & caught a tiger fish (5 lbs) & 2 bream (4 lbs each). Saw hippo but did not get a shot. Fired at a croc & I think hit, but don't know if I killed him. Found on getting back that G. had had a busy morning, 2 different complaints having been lodged, one against Sibomba of child stealing, other against Sijanda of robbery. People came from Siamabobo to visit camp. Some of Grey's carriers passed through on way home from Kapiers Kapango (???). On opening my camera today, G. found lens had come off, 2 screws having come out, probably from shaking when being carried. He put it right for me.
Tried new sight on G.'s .400. Saw fresh koodoo spoor at one landing place ar River this morning. Played cribbage again after dinner &, as I had last night, again had wonderful luck in hands, winning three out of five.

27 Jul 1902

G. went hunting up Mwenga in morning. I went to River and caught 3 fish - some big. Saw hippo again - 2 this time & sent boy back to camp for rifle. Got shot at 100 yds, hippo just showing & missed. Followed & got a better shot and I think hit in neck. It probably will not kill it. Home for lunch. G. had returned having got a shot at a pala, with no success. Patrol came back with Sibomba, who admitted seizing child on ground that its mother was his slave. Sibomba retained a prisoner in camp & child given back to its father, Lialabi. Boy from Sigariatombwi's Tshibata, who went as carrier with Bracken came & reported that Bracken had fired at him & he had run away.

28 Jul 1902

Went to hunt S. of Camp. In kopje country, came on koodoo bull, which bolted. Followed & hit. Followed blood spoor long way and eventually killed it, a good head. My first koodoo. G. had also gone hunting & had shot a koodoo cow. Funny we should both get koodoo on same day after looking for them so long. Note arrived from Bracken giving his account of his shooting affair reported yesterday. He certainly has no right even to frighten the boy. Nanjiwa came in & reported having returned Sepolelwa's 4 women whom he had captured. G. sent people to corroborate & messengers sent to Siapela to give Nanjiwa his 8 cows. G. making new sight for his .303.

29 Jul 1902

Getting ready to start on patrol to Mumbwa's tomorrow. We are going to look for a site for new camp as suggested by Coryndon. We tried G.'s new sight and found it good. Boys had some practice shooting & did badly. We are only taking 3 police & leaving 3 in Camp. Funkwi, Jim & Bongolo carry rifles, however, to swell the army. Cow & calf brought over from island where they are doing badly & are to start with boys for Siapela's very early tomorrow morning to escape "fly". G. wrote to Bracken re complaint by Tshibata. Mail arrived, nothing in it of any interest from S. of Kalomo. Somebody is making free with our liquor - the bottle of gin has been generously watered tonight!

30 Jul 1902

Mrangwa went off early with cow & calf for Siapela's. He is to go as far as Penkeli's. Monasiboba, Penkeli & Sibomba came in & G. held an inquiry into several of the cases pending. Mtambashi also came & he was told his case is too old to be taken up. Issued ammunition to Police, Funkwi, Jim & Bongolo, making theirs up to 40 rounds. Monasiboba goes with us to Mumbwa's & we gave him 10 rounds as well as those given the other day. Bought grain from Penkeli's, about 75 lbs. After lunch, we started - G. & I, 3 police, our own boys, Monasiboba & carriers. Leaving 2 police & some natives in Camp. Came on till 4:30 & camped at head waters of Mwenga in rocky country. Left mail to be sent off in a weeks time.

31 Jul 1902

Made a push to get away early & started at 6:10am. Came on to Sigariatombwi's & stopped about 10. Induna & several sub-indunas came in & brought food. A case pending - Mtambashi's - was settled. People told about hut tax. Came on about 2pm, taking path S. of but parallel to Tshemi's path. Soon after passing Sibomba's, we stopped on edge of big vlei with good water for night; about 4:15. I went out to look for buck but saw none. People brought food. G. suffering from slight fever - pains in body. I missed a Hartebeeste, & G., a pig on road.

 
August 1902  

1 Aug 1902

Away at 6am & came on till about 9:15 through hilly country, past Nyumba's to Namoya's on Tapira River, where we outspanned. Induna came & brought food. Told about hut tax & warned against slavery system. Elevation by Anr - 3545. On about 6 miles in afternoon, stopping at water in big vlei. On way, I tried to stalk some Hartebeeste but they evidently got my wind & went off. Missed some Zebra. After camping, boys reported game near. G. went out and shot a Roan & Hartebeeste, both bulls, getting back after dark. I am feeling rather slack tonight.

2 Aug 1902

G. lost his hat out hunting last evening. Boys found it early this morning. Got away about 6:10 and after a few miles - perhaps 4 - came to kraaals of Pompowula & Mlendema - a fairly thickly populated place. Indunas & people assembled and G. told them about hut tax etc. Monasiboba, who is a brother of Mlendema, did not seem very happy when G. spoke very plainly to the people. About 2 miles from kraals, we came on a herd of Hartebeeste in a vlei; I stalked to about 200 yds and knocked over 2 bulls. Finding water here, we stopped. Gave one buck to people from kraal who had followed us. As we sat after lunch we saw 4 Hartebeeste come out to feed in vlei about 300 yds away. Watched them with glasses for a long time - 2 cows were inclined to fight & the big bull always separated them. Suddenly, a baboon came out & startled them &, soon after, 2 warthogs came out & each seemed to scare the others, for they all went off into the guen at a gallop. G. feeling very seedy - a sort of low fever which comes on every day. On again at 2pm. G. became quite ill on road, feeling faint. At about 5 miles, we reached kraals of Sisila & Karemba on Nansenga River & camped. These chiefs have never visited Camp. They & people were told about the hut tax & received the usual homily on the subject of slavery, raiding & killing. I went out along river looking for bush buck in the thick banks. Saw spoor but no buck. Likely place for lions & leopards. Saw Hartebeeste, Reedbuck & 2 bush buck on road in afternoon. Natives say there are a lot of lions about here on the Nansenga R.

3 Aug 1902

G. a good deal better today. Away soon after 6am & came on about 10 miles to where path divides - to Lewis' & Mlungushi's. Saw Hartebeeste & Roan on road but did not shoot. At Lukenta's we held a meeting & G. discoursed on hut tax etc. On again about 2pm and stopped after about 5 miles near river before Mlungushi's. Heard shouting of people near and Kampoolwi, the induna, came to camp with police sent for him. One man at village, where people were much excited, shouting on death of somebody, took up a bow and arrow when police appeared. He was brought in and goes with us as far as Mumbwa's carrying loads. On way, saw Roan, L Hartebeeste, at which we did not shoot. I shot a duiker ram.

4 Aug 1902

Delayed in getting away by having to send to kraal for people against whom there was a complaint. Started at 7:45 and came on past Mlungushi's burning grass on way to Tshibila R., near Mono's, where we camped about 11:30. Sat in shade of plain binyo (???). Dick very slack & G. gave him a hammering. Mono & Mowasa came in and an indaba was held, usual talk taking place. These people are a wild lot, but behaved quite well. On again about 2:30 & roughly following course of Tshibila R, passing many kraals, Shitukumbwa & Sitshiombalo, near which we saw for first time, spoor of Lewis's new carts, we stopped for night at about 5 miles, near Shanoncema's, a sub kraal of Pompowula. People came and were told to get money for hut tax & to be good! Saw two good sites for camp, one near Mono's on W side of River, & one where we sleep tonight.

5 Aug 1902

Starting rather later than usual, we came on past Tshapata's, Mtshwena's & Pompowula's to Mumbwa's, about 5 miles, where we camped. Trees all leafless & shelter from the sun rather difficult. G. is again very seedy - probably dispepsia. Mumbwa came with a lot of people and appeared at first inclined to be cheeky, to "argue the point". G. however did not take long in putting him right. The usual talk of hut tax, slavery, raiding took place. In afternoon, Mumbwa brought meal & a goat which we killed & gave to our people. Near Mumbwa's, Lewis has built a small camp with stable & cattle kraal. A Basuto boy is there in charge & says Lewis has gone E & will be back in about 2 weeks. Cut G.'s hair with difficulty - blunt scissors which refuse to be sharpened.

6 Aug 1902

Lay in bed till after sunup. After breakfast, went with G. up valley of Tshibila and found two places which appear quite good for Camp. Passed Lewis's camp. Hear that Davey & Baragenanath (???) have gone with him to Tshepepo's. Back in camp about 11:30. Sent boy to nail notice & flag on trees blazed to mark sites for camp. G. wrote to N.C.Co., stating that camp is to be built & supposing that their camp should not be permanantly fixed until Gov. camp is decided on. Mumbwa brought food and was given a blanket. He appears to be in a most docile frame of mind. Case was brought by a man against Mumbwa, of retaining wife of man too ill to appear. Woman came & stated that she wished to go home. Permission granted. G. cut my hair with nail scissors! Most successful. Letter to manager N.C.C marked L.B M1/02.

7 Aug 1902

Away about 7am after breakfast. Sent Mumbwa limbo in payment for milk sent by him. After going about a mile down the valley, we saw a likely looking ridge on W side, and, leaving boys to outspan, went over to look at it. Aneroid makes it about 3690 ft and the view from it is splendid. It is very rocky however and ground on top uneven. I fear the heat held by the rock would be too much for comfort. On way here, I missed a reedbuck - not an easy shot. Got back to outspan at about 11am., and, after shaving, had lunch. G.'s boy Jim is sick. Came on again at 2pm and camped about 4:30, some little way from Mono's. G. is seedy again & I feel rather slack. I fear this valley is not so healthy as could be desired. G. fell into a game pit near midday outspan but did not damage himself.

8 Aug 1902

Got away in good time & came on about 10 miles to NKua's, an outlying kraal of Siboluema. On way, passing Mono's we got two guides, one of whom ran away but was caught by Funkwi and was flogged, taken on in handcuffs. Path lead round W end of Nyambala & we took several observations for our map. Country between Nyambala & Luteta R. very dry - swamps in summer. Two cases were brought, one dismissed & other settled at Siboluema's which we reached at 4pm, after going an hour. Induna, who seems a good sort & intelligent, met us with a big following. They soon cleared a space for our camp under a big fig tree. An indaba was held & all the usual affairs spoken of. Siboluema brought meal & a goat for which we gave him a blanket. We pitched tent. I went out a short way at sundown to look for a buck but saw none.

9 Aug 1902

Started to hunt about 7am., with people from kraal. Soon saw reedbuck & shot a young ram, leaving it covered up. Saw large herd of Roan, but always down wind in thick country & never got a chance. Saw Hartebeeste & knocked over one, but it recovered & went off & though I followed blood spoor for miles, never got it. Evidently hit just above spine. Saw Eland, more Hartebeeste & Zebra but wind always baulked me. Coming home I got a reedbuck ewe - reached camp after 3pm. G. had got back early morning having got into hopeless bush drty country with no sign of game. I had a hot bath, during which G. took the opportunity of photographing me. Felt better after food. G. has told Siboluema to give us 20 carriers. So far he has produced only 8 & says other people refuse. These indunas seem to have absolutely no power or influence with the people. Siboluema was told to come in with his headmen - G. meaning to talk to them about the way in which the people disrespected their orders.

10 Aug 1902

Siboluema & some headmen came to camp at sunup & G. told them they must exercise their authority over the people. A few more carriers turned up & we started at 7am. Some more boys followed us, making 16 in all. Came on about 10 miles in westerly direction to Lukenta's & stopped. I interviewed the Indunas instead of G., & spoke again of preparation for hut tax. People brought meal which we bought. Started again at 2:30 and had some difficulty in getting guides at village - everybody hiding in huts till we hunted them out. Came on about 2 hours, passing Mdaga's & Ganisa's till we saw 3 Waterbuck bulls, all of which G. shot. Ganisa, who had come with us, was given one - our own people about 60 being quite equal to the balance of 2. Water being near, we camped.

11 Aug 1902

Last evening we found our watches almost an hour slow by sun & put them on. Started this morning about 7 by new time and came on past Kasongo's where we got 3 boys to work in camp. Camped at first water beyond. G. feeling seedy. On again about 2pm & after going about an hour & a half, saw some Sable bulls with Hartebeeste. G. went after them & got to about 200yds. Hit a sable in foreleg but lost it. He shot a big Hartebeeste bull. We camped about 4pm in a very nice place. Excellent water in vlei. In evening, I went down to vlei on chance of seeing game. Saw spoor only. Tsetse fly in myriads. Four more men came from Siboluema, making 20 in all. The induna seems anxious to avert trouble & at least to do what he is told.

12 Aug 1902

G. & I up early and went to vlei to look for game. Saw herd of Hartebeeste & stalked them. At about 100yds, I fired but cartidge missed fire, buck moved off & I missed my second try. Back to camp, found G. ready to start, swallowed some food & got away by 7am. came on a new path to E of old one, about 11 miles, shooting Hartebeeste cow on way. Camped on headwaters of Nangoma R; (2635 ft Elev Aneroid); heard last night that some police have come from N.W.R. & are following us. Started again about 3pm & after about 2 hours reached Monatshianda's where we camped for night. At midday, we sent on boys to announce our arrival in camp, and to send to Siapela's for a milk cow.

13 Aug 1902

Away at 6:45 (by new time) just after sunup, and, coming to Sigariatombwi's, found 10 B.N.P awaiting us. Letter says 15 in all have been sent. This morning we sent on police to arrest the father of Mwalilanda who ran away from work some months ago. They heard that the man wanted us at Monatshianda's & police were sent there to get him. Saw some Hartebeeste & pig which G. went after. He did not get a shot. Stopped at head waters of Mwenga about 11am (Aneroid reading 2604). On again at 2pm, reaching Camp soon after 4. Everything seems right here. Five more police at camp making 15 B.N.P. in all. They seem pretty hopelessly bad in drill, and their intelligence cannot be described as excessive. Found 2 mails in camp, about 6 letter for me from Mother, others, Lockhart, A.W.W., Natalie, & Patrick, who has resigned commission & taken apointment in N. Nigeria under Colonial Office.

14 Aug 1902

Busy paying off old workers, arranging huts for police, work for new boy etc. G. writing all day. I made sketch map of Tshibila R. & proposed sites of camp for Coryndon. The new B.N.P. do seem awful fools. They seem to know something about manual excercise but stop there. Manguba came in with the man he was sent to arrest, & a couple of police were sent to arrest another at Siamajogo's alleged to have sold a slave. Awful yarn of murder & child stealing by man from Mlendemo's against man of same place. Find grain store in camp very low, sent message to Penkelli's to bring in for sale.

15 Aug 1902

On waking, death of a camp worker (from Siboluema) was reported. I went out & found man dead, still warm. Evidently he died of internal inflamation. Busy writing in office most of day. Case brought yesterday by Mobili of Mlendema's further enquired into. Amount of lying done was absolutely appaling! One witness was flogged for the most barefaced lying. Case reserved for further evidence & complainant made prisoner, as he seems guilty of conspiracy. One of our prisoners released - boy who attacked policemen at Kampolwi's Mtanti, Tapula, Ndabandabe, Monatshianda visited camp. Wrote to George sitting up till nearly midnight to do so.

16 Aug 1902

Busy during most of the morning completing official mail to leave today. Wrote a line to Mother. Mail left about 11am. Our B.N.P. parade every morning; they are not good at drill, but, as we don't know their methods & don't want to make them change to our way of drilling, we have to leave it almost entirely to their sargeant who is no great shakes himself. After lunch, I traded grain with people from Penkelli - about 800 lbs. Siamajoko came in to pay a visit and gave evidence in case of Mutsbila who is to be extradited to Nkala. Wrote out copy of evidence to be forwarded by special messenger tomorrow. I am beginning to feel rather shakey about my leave. Should the official intimation of transfer of Hook to N.W. Rhodesia not arrive, say before Nov, the people in Salisbury are likely to require one of us to remain in the district & G. has applied for leave before rains. Coryndon asked me to postpone my leave which was granted for about june -till end of Oct in belief that the official intimation would come at once. I shall be awfully sick if I have to forgoe my leave. Went to garden (at River).- it is not nearly so far on as we had hoped.

17 Aug 1902

Macebo arrived this morning with milk cow for Siapula's. G. went out to hunt early & returned about noon having shot 2 Zebra & a young reedbuck; he had seen an enormous lot of game & wounded a Sable which he followed without getting it. Manguba went with letter for Nkala in early morning. Monasiboba came in & case of Mobili was again heard. Proved that complainant & one of his witnesses were guilty of conspiracy - making false charge. They were both flogged. In morning I made tracing of new map of Hook. Patrol of B.N.P. and 2 Matabele start tomorrow for Sijanda's to bring in induna and a man against whom is a complaint. G. again seedy - bad headache. There is no doubt he wants a change badly. In evening, I superintended issuing of food.

18 Aug 1902

Patrol started for Sijanda's. During forenoon, I made up parcel of 119 yds limbo & sent off boy with it to N. C. Co. Sent boy to summon Monatshianda's people to sell grain. Put out our remaining boer meal in sun to dry - our flour is nearly done. If waggon doesn't come soon, we shall be short of several things. Mlumbachi & Muloa came in, the latter asking for a gun! and when that was refused, asked for powder, which was also refused. Sent a boy to catch bait in river. Wrote to P.W.A. Strong breeze & cloudy sky. Unusual kind of weather for this time of year.

19 Aug 1902

In morning after breakfast, G. & I went fishing on River. Caught nothing. G. had shot at hippo - our old friend - & a croc, shooting with Bongolo's M.H. Don't think he hit. Back for lunch. Muyanga came in with enormous quantity of beer. They are having a beer drink to celebrate the coming of age of his daughter. We told him to send his people to sell grain, but he said they would not be able to see tomorrow! G. has put in an ivory sight in a M.H. Rifle to use about camp as we are short of .303 & his .400 is practically useless owing to Jeffrey's bad cartridges. Tried rifle & both broke bottle at 100 yds. Went out with G. hearing that pigs were feeding near Mwenga - G. shot pala ewe.

20 Aug 1902

Traded grain before breakfast from people who came in late last evening. After breakfast, G. & I went to river & G. fished down stream. Fish were coming short & out of about a dozen misses caughjt 4 fish, one abt 2 lbs. After lunch, two more lots of people brought grain - from Mlumbashi & Simajoko which I traded. Penkelli came in with Mucema, latter to make complaint against a white trader who he alleges attacked & beat some of his people for appearing before him naked. G. wrote letter to white man & Macebo is to go with letter tomorrow. Mail not arrived. Lion roaring last night in rocky country S. of camp.

21 Aug 1902

Lion roaring near Mlumbachi's in early morning. At sunup, I started to hunt going E. Took 3 Abayila only. Came on herd of Hartebeeste in open at 400 yds & they went off before I could get nearer. At Sable Kie, I saw herd of Sable and, stalking to 150 yds, got a shot at bull. Broke stifle joint. Spoor were hard to take and much mixed up. Took two hours to find blood spoor which separated from others & another to come up with buck which came to bay in long grass. Could only see small part of buck who was stamping and snorting, evidently wanting to fight. Hit him several times in neck - only place I could see, before killing him. Shot today with M.H. rifle with G.'s new sight. It seems all right. Two of my boys ran away when sable came to bay - one taking my cartridges with him. He came back when called.
Home about 2:15. G. had been fishing but caught nothing. Had a shot crocodile & fired at hippo. He traded grain while I bathed. In evening, went to see croc, boys skinned soft parts. Mail has not arrived.

22 Aug 1902

Put up flag staff in compound. Wrote during morning to Mother & Lockhart, also sent cheque to Lennon for £1, 9/- in payment of their Acc. Bought small quantity of grain from natives. In late evening, police patrol returned from Sijanda's with 4 prisoners - Mdaya's runaway wife, - the man who stole Mlombi's blankets & another against whom there is a complaint. Police report having been attacked by three kraals of Maiyinda, and having bolted! leaving Mlombi prisoner in their hands. Police fired a few shots, but the thing evidently was a plain bolt - simply disgraceful. The great B.N.P. are not showing up well. Maiyinda appears to have come on the scene and stopped his people, making them send Mlombi after police. I start tomorrow for Nkala to get Harris to cooperate with his police in punishing these kraals. Mail not in yet.

23 Aug 1902

Up early, preparing to start for Nkala. G. drilled police & gave them firing practice. Soon after 10am, I got away, 6 carriers, Velekini & Makuswana & my own two boys with me & also Mutshila, the prisoner to be handed over to Harris. I am taking the mail with me. We got across Kafue by noon exactly & came on till 1:15 when I stopped for lunch. On again at 2:45 &, taking path to E. of Kaiyingn's kraal, stopped at river - past Kaiyingn's - at 5:20. I want to reach Nkala tomorrow if possible, and hope to get in an extra trek by starting in moon light. I fear that depends on whether the boys make me or not, as I feel rather like a long night myself. If I reach Mtenka's by sunup & outspan for an hour or so, I should get in to Nkala by sundown. Hope I shall find Harris at the fort, otherwise it will be rather awkward arriving at night.

24 Aug 1902

Slept very badly, woke at 2am & at 2:15 got away. Pleasant morning & good moon. Wonderful scent of hyasinths everywhere. Passed Mtenka's at sunup and stopped for 3/4 hour at 7am. Light breakfast & got away again reaching Sanjola's at 10:30, stopped for noon. On again at 12:45 & came straight to Fort which I reached about 4pm. Boys arrived before sundown. Found Harris pretty fit and he made me very welcome. He agreed at once to come to our assistance with all available police. Saw a good lot of game on road but did not wait to shoot. Must have come about 36 miles today - excellent going for carriers.

25 Aug 1902

Remained in camp. Harris feeling very seedy. Kaiyingu came in with his band and Harris held indaba. Kaiyingu said he had heard that police had been thrashed by natives in Hook & asked if it was true! The bad effect of this affair must be very great. Harris made up & dispatched mails for South. I hear that a lot of white traders are about, and that some are trading in Hook. Very late hours here - breakfast about 11. Lunch 4 & so on. Harris very busy with his police, post & A.D.C work. Wrote to G. saying we shall leave this on 28th for Siapela's & sent Veletjui off with letter. Slight shower of rain during night - very early in season.

26 Aug 1902

Harris still seedy. Sent of boys to collect carriers for patrol. Harris making up his books etc to date preparatory to coming on patrol. I filled maxim belts for same purpose. H. is very keen to see Zimmerman - a trader now at Tshaloba's - before leaving & has asked me to let horse Jacob go for him to ride in tomorrow. His horse is not fit. Sent Jacob with instructions that Z. must either bring him or send him back tomorrow.

27 Aug 1902

Harris still preparing to start tomorrow on patrol - carriers came in. Cleaned maxim gun. Zimmerman arrived on Jacob from Tshaloba's. He seems a good sort & a great improvment on the average trader. He has left his partner, Moxton, very sick at Tshaloba's. He asked Harris some rather inconvenient questions as to how much he must stand from natives before being justified in retaliating & so on. In early morning, I went down to watch Harris's parade. Police here - only a few today - were not very great "drills". Zimmerman wants to go with our expedition, but must stay with Moxton. He says Abayila are very cheeky & independent. Evidently they want a lesson badly.

28 Aug 1902

We hoped to get away early this morning but Harris had a vast number of things to attend to and we got away about 1pm. Zimmerman went off during forenoon to walk back to Tshalamba's taking supply of lemons & eggs for Moxton. Came on to Moshenana's - abt 10 miles & camped for night. Found camp of a trader, Malvenas, who has bought a lot of cattle, many, I hear, from Hook. He has no licence for N.E.R. I understand. Trader is not at his camp just now. I fancy he is man against whom Mueswa made complaint. I shall report to G. when we meet. Before leaving Fort, a Fingo native arrived saying that Gielgud has refused trading licence; Harris gave him one for N.W.R. I have brought Jacob - a great score to ride again. On path, had shot at Puku (???) but did not hit, I think. Good luck to Barbara & Lockhart.

29 Aug 1902

Got away about 6:30 and came 2m to River which we crossed by 8:30. Harris had slight trouble in crossing Peter, who got loose once & swam back to bank. Kaundu came down to meet us. Took on guide & about 11, reached Siasokwi's & Shobwa's where we stopped till about 3pm. Indunas brought food. Sent on to Bunka to have food prepared and came on to his kraal at 4:30. People seemed rather cool at first, but improved later. Found here a young Walker trading cattle. He has no licence for N.E.R. & I told him to come to Siapela's tomorrow to see Gielgud. His father is across River. This man professes not to know where his father's licence applies to - an obvious lie.

30 Aug 1902

Got away about 7am and came on to Siapela's - about 8m, where we found Gielgud camped. He had arrived yesterday with 13 police & 4 Matabele, besides kitchen boys. We hear that the old Walker is here, hunting, & shot a buffalo yesterday. G. tells us that our enemy have sent in to treat, but were told we were coming to their kraal. Maiyinda who has acted on the square throughout this affair, sent in a bullock which we killed to feed our people. After lunch, we moved on, & passing N.C. Co's new camp near Siamayinda's, G. & Harris rode to see the people there (4) & I went on with the coulumn. At Batshase R., we took on water and stopped between there & first of Maiyinda's kraals for night. Harris has posted all his police as pickets round camp and has mounted his maxim. We are not meaning to surprise kraal tomorrow as they know of our coming already. G. brought me some letters which came by last mail, from Barbara, Natalie (June 20), C.H.W. (June 25), Jack Murray (7 July), & Davey. Also Bank acc statement (Balance £25, 5/- ) at end of June. C.H.W. tells me Lockhart was attacked & stabbed by a lunatic in his asylum, but is getting on well.

31 Aug 1902

After an early breakfast, we got away & came on past Maiyinda's where we were met by the Chief and a vast crowd of his people. The indunas of the offending kraals also came out & we went to their villages & camped. An indaba was held & Kowula, who gave orders for police to be attacked, was arrested, much to the evident disappointment & disapproval of the people. The kraals were fined 10 cows & 4 headmen arrested till fine is paid. Vast quantities of food brought as present. Mlumbi's case - the origin of the whole row - was finished & part of his stolen kit returned. In afternoon, we moved down to clear place behind Maiyinda's kraal & camped for night. People came & saw a belt put through Maxim which greatly impressed them. Big pickets again.

 
September 1902  
1 Sep 1902

This morning, the fine of 10 cows was paid & the 4 men released. Kowula being kept prisoner. We moved a few hundred yards to shade as things were not arranged before 11 o'clock. We asked for carriers to go to Kalomo for our stores band about 35 turned up. G. gave Maiyinda a cow as reward for his behaviour in this matter of attack on police. At 2:30, we moved on - a large party now- and camje on to Batshase R., where we camped for night. H. shot 2 Roan bulls on road. Siamayinda sent in some food. People brought present of grain from Bunka. In evening, boys ret from Bokenham with 57 yards calico.

2 Sep 1902

Away at 7am. Harris & I rode down to N.C. Co's base camp near Siamaiyinda's & there found several white men - Bokenham, Walter, young & Walker, & on other side of R., 6 waggons offloading with several other men. We crossed and heard that some waggons recently went up to Kalomo from Livingstone. Probably our stores are on these. Bokenham lent us 100 rounds L.M. ammunition. Rode on to Siapela's which we reached about 11am. Siamaiyinda's people brought food. Trial of Kowula in afternoon which however was not finished. Siapela's people brought food which we bought & put in an empty sipala. I shall probably go on with carriers to Kalomo for stores. In evening, case of Kowula was completed - he was found guilty - practically admitting guilt - and sentenced to 6 months in jail.

3 Sep 1902

Harris got ready to start for Nkala. We gave him a cow in exchange for bullock to be handed to me at Nkala. Branded other cows xx - 8 & a calf. A Greek trader called Tsammas came to camp. He is working for Malvenas. G. told him he must get away across Kafue and gave him shells recovered from Nyambo. People brought good quantity of grain which I bought. Limbo practically finished till G. sends more. Wrote asking Bokenham to lend me some. G. got off with carriers & some police on his way back to camp. He is to send grain & stores to me. Taking horse as far as Silumbiji's. Hunted in evening & got an oribi; on returning, found note from Zimmerman, who has arrived with Moxton & was camped at Siapela's. They were too tired to come down so I went to them after dinner & stayed about an hour. Moxton much better again.

4 Sep 1902

Early this morning, Zimmerman & Moxton passed my camp on their way down River to trade cattle. I went out hunting N.E. &, coming on Hartebeeste at abt 200 yds, shot 3. Back to camp. Bought grain which Siamayinda's people had brought in. Sent boys out for the meat. Sent for Siapela & told him his people must send in more grain. Gave him a little meat. Police paraded in afternoon. Really their performances are ammusing! The sergeant, instead of talking to them in his & their vernacular, elects to pour out torrents of appalling kitchen kaffir mixed with English oaths - "Weniaicona fundili, Bl...dy fool!" is a sample. Veletjui returned from Silumbiji's with horse, arriving this morning. Cloudy sky & strong wind all day. Hope it does not mean rain.

5 Sep 1902

Thunder storm with pretty heavy rain came on in the night and continued during morning. I have had our grain bin hastily thatched. Horse ran off when let out to graze & went a long way before being caught. Meant to hunt but weather stopped me. Sent 2 police to Maiyinda's to give message about slave case (from G.) & to summon people to sell grain. Also sent 2 police to tell all people as far as Siasokwi's to bring grain. Rain off & on all day. A few people from Siamayinda & Siapela brought grain for sale. In evening, I went for a short ride, watering horse on way. Boys returned from Maiyinda's & say that people will bring grain tomorrow. Two fine mohens have been walking about all day near camp. They are lovely birds. Sky looks like a wet night; thunder still going on. Wrote to Lockhart. Rather dreary day in camp.

6 Sep 1902

Sent for guides from kraal and started at 6am to hunt. I hoped for buffalo and did not shoot at some B.Z. I saw. Lots of buffalo spoor but some days old & none fresh. Came on herd of Roan, about 40 I should say, and shot 3. Two fell close and one, a cow, went off with a broken shoulder. We followed an easy spoor a long way and finished her in thick bush where she came to bay. Left boys at kills & got back at 11:30. Sent for people from kraal to carry meat and a vast crowd of women turned out. After lunch I saw a caravan passing. It was Walker pere on his way to his camp across River. He came to my camp & had coffee & stayed some little time talking. He seems a good old chap. very bitter about N.W.R. people stopping his cartridges at Zambesi, resenting the idea that he kills too much game. he gave me a few old books to read & some onions. The latter I hesitated to take but he says he has lots at his waggon. A lot of people have brought in grain to trade - Maiyinda & Bunka. People from Siasokwi & more from near Maiyinda came in too late to trade, and have gone to kraal leaving grain here, to be traded in morning. My calico will soon be running out. It is difficult to estimate how much grain I have bought but I think it cannot be far short of 1000 lbs. Dull cloudy day & cool breeze. I hope rain has passed off. We have just had enough to be pleasant & don't want more just yet.

7 Sep 1902

Bought grain from Monasitshonsi's & Siasokwi's people till limbo ran out & I had to stop. I really think I must have about enough grain now. Remained in camp hoping people from Mwenga might arrive in time to get ready to start tomorrow. Two natives passed through with mails for N.C. co's camp which they call "Kapukwi Drift", I understand. Bright sunshine again. Wrote to Mother. In evening, Macibo turned up with 29 carriers (20 loads grain, and stores). Kit etc. for me. Too late to make any preparations. Sent of policeman & native to Bokenham with 57 yds limbo. People from Monasitshonsi & Sijanda brought grain which I bought though I don't think we really want it. They had come so far. Gave meat to each lot of people who came to trade. Took a large nest of "Jigger" eggs out of one of my toes. My first experience of jiggers. Put in strong Pm., permanganate.

8 Sep 1902

Started work early. Summoned all carriers & made a list. Set boys preparing sacks - very holey - which came yesterday. Filled up loads of grain - in all we must be carrying close on 2000 lbs. Gave out loads amid much groaning & expressions of despair from people. Asked Siapela for 10 carriers. He says everybody has gone to work for N.C. Co. I refused to believe him & sent him back to get people. Quite late he turned up almost in despair saying he cannot find anybody. Told him to send 4 women to go as far as Bunka's where I shall try to get other people. Agreed. People came from Mianakila's to trade but I refused to buy. Even now I am leaving a lot of grain in the sipela, which I have told Siapela to put thatch on. Sent 2 police ahead to Moshenena's to have boats brought to river.

9 Sep 1902

Got away about 6:30 & arranged the loads so that Siapela's women were not necessary. At Bunka's, I tried hard to get 5 carriers & took induna on as hostage. Reached Siasokwi's about noon owing to long delay at Bunka's. Some carriers did not get in till nearly 4pm, so I had to decide to sleep here. The carriers say they can't manage the large loads of grain & 2 got down to sit in road & I had to send back people to relieve them. Siasokwi & Showbwa can't produce carriers - they say that everyone has gone to carry for N.C. co. & alleges that a native came with a letter stating that everyone was to turn out by Langwena's orders! Also say that N.C. Co. has paid Langwena 10 cartridges for this privilege! I released Bunka as his yarn is thus corroborated.; I have got one man from him. I have had to leave a lot of grain here - 10 baskets - to lighten loads. These, the people are to take to Kaundu's for me. In evening, went out & shot a Roan bull & a Hartebeeste.

10 Sep 1902

Slept badly & woke tired. Got away at 6am, and, boys going better, we reached Kaundu's at 8:40, having picked up 4 boys on road; got 2 more from Kaundu. Came on to R. & found no Gov. boats, only native canoes. It appears the boys I sent on did not clearly understand what was wanted. Horse crossed well & everything was over in an hour. One boy, Kowanga (Sijanda's) ran away while we were crossing. Camped at Moshenena's for lunch & found Tshammas, the Greek trader, here. Kaundu is to send 5 baskets of grain here for me & Moshenena to send it to Nkala. From R., sent back to camp 8 police, 2 carriers and a large tent. Met Webb, whom we met last year at Samsonti's, trading now. Away about 3 & went ahead to Nkala. Met at station, missionary & wife, the Chapman's. Very unfavourably impressed. They never even asked me to come into their house. Went up to Fort for night, my people camping below.

11 Sep 1902

Found at Fort letters from G. awaiting me, also the prisoner, Kowulo, & the 4 police as further escort. I wanted to get away early but it was pas 9 o'clock when I managed it. Got 60 lbs meat from Harris & sent off two boys with 40 lbs for G. & took 20 myself. Returned "Ismailie" to mission station. Came on 2 hrs & stopped for lunch. On again about 3 hours to Nanzela where I found Mr Smith (missionary) & his wife. They are very good sort and gave me a different reception to that of Chapman. Insisted on putting me up & gave me a beautiful bed with sheets. They have a small son, a few months old. Smith, a most interesting man to talk to. He is systematically learning & making grammar of Sewila, and in translating St Luke. Went out before going to bed to visit guard.

12 Sep 1902

Most comfortable night in a civilised bed. Wakened at 5:20 by Funkwi, and went out & got my people away soon after 6. I went back & had breakfast which Smith insisted on having early, 7:30. They gave me eggs & milk to carry with me & I rode after people, overtaking them at 10 o'c when they had just outspanned at Water. Left on day's grain at Nanzela. Started again at 1:45 & came on to 'Mbila's about 4:45. Sent for induna & he brought me a small supply of food. On road I shot a Reedbuck ram. Arranged to leave days supply of grain with 'Mbila's, for return journey. Strong gale blowing in my face all day, very trying for eyes on a sand road. One policeman sick. I now have several carriers with no loads & should get on well. Sleeping outside reed huts - I don't trust their cleanliness. I hope it won't rain.

13 Sep 1902

Cleaned up reed camp & got away at 6am, reaching water in small spring on left of path at 9:30. Stopped here as I think this is last water before Tshungi's. Sick policeman dragged behind a long way. Left another with him. They arrived about 11:15. Very small amount of water here, which my large party pretty well finished! Moved on again at 1pm. Passed a large party of carriers with goods for Mr. Smith, Nanzila. Reached past camp at Tshungi's old kraal about 3:40 & decided to camp as next water is a long way ahead and many of my people are forty one. Have put half a sack of grain in hut for my return journey. A native turned up in evening who professes to look after the camp. I told him about the sack of grain & put it in his charge. Tshungi's people have built a new kraal near the water. The new road to N.C. Co. Siamayinda's branches off here. Saw some reedbuck on road but did not get a shot. Veletjui asked for permission to buy a goat here which he proposed to kill & eat & for which he was prepared to pay 10/-. I refused permission. The camp is infested by rats, due no doubt to fact that large quantities of grain need to be stored here.

14 Sep 1902

Rats running all over & around me last night; also stealing grain from my loads. Got away at 6am. One of Bunka's people is so lame that I told him to go to Mbila's & wait there for my return. Reached Kamela's Rest Camp at 9:30 & stopped for lunch. Arranged to leave grain here - a half sack. Another policeman sick, but I have returned the former one to duty. Started again at 1:30pm & came on to river where I slept on 19 April on way to Falls. I here got a running shot at 200 yds at Wildebeeste, but it went off & I don't know if I hit. Took on water at river & went on till 5 o'c. Camping in thirst. I want to reach Kalomo if possible tomorrow but I fear it may prove too far. Fresh lion spoor on road. I have got Jacob well surrounded by people & fires & hope we won't have any bother. Cloudy sky tonight. I wish I were on my way to Bulawayo & home and hadn't to go all the way back to Mwenga first!

15 Sep 1902

Started at 5:30 am. No rain or lions having come to disturb us during the night. Came right on to Tshumbwi's where I left 3 bags of grain in charge of induna & passed on to river which we reached at 10:45, having travelled 5 1/4 hours. At Tshumbwi's we left wagoon road & took path to left, which B.N.P. say is shorter. On again at 1:30 &, after rejoining waggon road, I cantered on, reaching Camp soon after 4 pm. Boys got in well before sundown. Found great changes at Kalomo, Old Camp has been renewed and is occupied by Swanson, A.D.C.. Worthington has almost completed his new camp, as also have H.H. and the B.N.P.. All camps are about 1/4 mile from each other. H.H. ( Harris ) is here. I am staying with Worthington. Nell, the accountant is also with him for the present. Claytons have gone & Middleton has agreed to come in his place. Handed over prisoner Kowula to O.C. G's dogs which I left at Falls in Thomson's charge are now here.

16 Sep 1902

Hear that Trudhope, Q.M.S.M., shot himself a few days ago, having allowed his books to get into great disorder. After breakfast, I went to H.H.'s camp where I saw him and O'Keefe. Stayed to lunch. Hearing that waggons left Falls on 10th & it is uncertain if our stores are on, decided to move on to meet waggon, as native food is so scarce. I have food for 6 days, H.H. giving me 100 lbs. Got boys away in afternoon & H.H. drove me out in buggy in evening. Finding boys had camped only at drift, I came back & dined with H.H. & went to W's to sleep. H.H. assures me both G. & I shall go on leave, but says he must first communicate with High Comm. I tried to prove that this is unnecessary as we are N.E.R. but he would not have it. I again feel shaky about my leave! Impressed on H.H. that G.'s health cannot stand another rains & he should go at once. Gave H.H. G.'s letters about the B.N.P.. He won't make any statement of opinion however.

17 Sep 1902

Told boys yesterday to start early today. I rode off after breakfast, 9 am, & overtook them at first rest huts at noon. Stopped for lunch & moved on again at 1:45. Sending boys on along road, I took 10 carriers & Veletjuni & struck over veldt to E. to look for game. Came on herd of Sable & knocked one over, but, evidently, hit in neck as it recovered & went off with the rest. Sable had one horn broken clean off. Followed herd & at 150 yds shot a cow through shoulder. Got back to waggon road striking it just where boys had made night camp. I scarcely know how far we have come, as I did not travel along road. Issued meat & no grain, thus saving a days grain. If I should have to go on to Livingstone, I shall be in difficulties about food for boys unless I can shoot meat every day on way down & so save grain for return.

18 Sep 1902

Mosquitos bad last night. Before starting, I sent back to Kalomo one policeman, 3 having come & I only want 2. We got away at 5:45 & sending boys on to stop at Maarman's. I took unloaded boys & hunted E. of road. Came on Sable & shot another cow. Sorry to kill so many cows, but supply of meat is important & one must take best chance. Reached Maarman's at 10:45 & found boys outspanned. I heard lions roaring early this morning back on road we have come, but a long way off. I heard at Maarman's that 6 waggons have crossed Zimba R on way here & will pass in night. On again at 1:15 pm. Found 10 waggons (N.C.Co.) outspanned on road. In them, Dr & Mrs Clayton on way S. Camped abt 5 pm at river where I found 2 B.N.P. in charge of Gov. stores left here. Clayton's waggon overtook & passed me here. Mrs Clayton down with fever. I issued no grain today, having thus saved 2 days supply.

19 Sep 1902

Got away at 5:45. I went to W. of road to look for buck. Got shot running at 150 yds at Eland & I think hit but could not get him. Got back to road abt 9 am & found waggon with Vaiboom & William. Boys had stopped so I camped. Goodin Zimba R near. Just under 2000 lbs on waggon which is pulled by 4 oxen & 10 donkeys. Decided to take stores by my carriers & send waggon back for more. Offloaded waggon. Made up loads for carriers, taking everything left on waggon, 2 pack saddles, 2 blankets & some donkey harnesses sent by Norton. Left 100 lbs grain to be taken to Worthington by waggons which are following. Wrote to Norton & Sykes - Vaiboom to take letters. One of the two natives working with waggon returning with us, one remains with waggon. Made my boys build scherm round waggon, as river is renowned for lions.

20 Sep 1902

Slept very badly, much disturbed by 5 waggons passing in the night. They outspanned just across the drift. Two drivers had a lengthy quarrel & fight about some trifle. In the morning, our waggon moved off & we got away at 5:30. A Zulu driver came & complained that he had been "sacked" by the white driver with whom he had fought last night. I told him I had nothing to do with this district. On passing waggons, I saw the white driver & a sort of peace was patched up - the Zulu remaining. Two of these waggons are "Gov." for Kalomo & 3 for N.C.Co., Kafue Drift. We came on to Maarman's at 10 am & outspanned. I have a bad headache & am feeling very seedy. Felt much tempted to sleep here but moved on at 1:45 and, by footpath, reached Tom's Kraal about 5 pm. Camped about 200 yds from kraal. Induna came to see me & sent me milk & a fowl, for which I gave him some calico. With a little push we should reach Kalomo tomorrow. Saw no big game today - only oribi & duiker, & I did not attempt to shoot them. Carriers don't seem to find their current loads so hard as the grain on the way down. I should have thought that their present loads are the heavier. Perhaps the fact that we are on the way home may have something to do with it. Quite a gale blowing all day, Quiet, clear, evening.

21 Sep 1902

Started 5:30 & reaching waggon road & Rest Home about 7:30, we came on 2 hours to water near "Sixpences". Saw Hartebeeste but did not shoot as boys are groaning about loads already. Away again at 1:30. I sent boys by path which is shorter, but went myself by road on chance of meeting Davey (N.C.Co.) who should have left Silver King on 15th. Reached Kalomo about 3:30 and went to Adm's Camp. He gave me his horse, Ruby, to ride & we went over to look at Harding's house & the B.N.P. Camp. Coryndon in a vague kind of way said he thought police would have to be materially changed. After all we have said about them, I hope they will! Back to Worthington's where I dined & shall sleep. Swanson & Nell dined here also. Gave W. some egaulte (???) tobacco. Boys got in before sundown & went to their old camp.

22 Sep 1902

As I only want to get to Tshumbwi's tonight, abt 15 miles, I did not hurry in getting up. Sent boys off about 7:30 and remained in camp myself. During forenoon, I got Becker, a Boer working here, to rasp down Jacob's hoofs which are now much improved. Swanson has G.'s dogs, a bull & a scotch terrier, which I left in Thomson's charge at the Falls. The bitch has pupped & Swanson gave me first choice; I chose a white dog which looks as if it has bull in it. Lunched with W. He tells me Adm's present scheme, the result of much talking, is to completely alter the police getting Matabele. May he stick to it. After lunch, rode to Coryndon's camp to say goodbye. He has written to Admin asking if he can give G. & me leave! Started at 3:30 and reached Tshumbwi's after dark - 6pm, where I found my people camped.

23 Sep 1902

Got away at 5:30. Passed mail boys going south. Came on to river which I reached at10:30 - the last carrier after 11. A long trek, but unavoidable on account of water. Got off again at 2:40 & in less than 2 hours reached Kammela's, where I stopped for night. On way, passed a Cape boy of Basuto who said he had come up to Batshukulumbwi country on behalf of Pryce - Wankei's to look for Labena (???). He was on his way S. & had a few boys. My boys are tired but seem to be getting along fairly well. Having grain ready for us each day is a great comfort. N.C.Co. mail passed going S. this evening, boys sleeping at kraal. Shot a pheasant, which, grilled, made a welcome change for dinner. Night looks clear. Heat extraordinarily severe today.

24 Sep 1902

Heat worse than ever. Stifling air. No rain though sky looked like it all last night. Cleaned up rest camps & moved on at 5:30 am & went on to Tshungu's which we reached at 9:30. Boys quite cooked. One police servant has a bad leg & is to remain for present at Tshungu's. Found my grain all right at Tshungu's. Got away again at 1:40 in boiling sun, thunder & lightning in the distance. Found too small supply of water in my old midday stopping place to allow me to camp, so went on. I left road & rode along Sapui R. looking for water which I did not find till about 5:30. Stopped here & carriers got in about 6pm. Made camp in dark. When riding along Sapui, I fired a long shot at a single Hartebeeste, but missed. I have not put up tent as sky looks like clearing. Hope I am not too sanguine. Boys quite cooked tonight. Must try to make a short trek tomorrow.

25 Sep 1902

Thunder storm came up in the night, but did not last long & rain was not heavy. I had sail put over the goods & tent spread over my bed. Away at 5:30am & in less than 3 hours reached river beyond Mbila's. Sent boys to kraal for my grain & heard that the sick man whom I had left here has gone home, not having remained a day! On camping, I went out & shot a reed buck ram; not much meat for so many mouths, but better than none. Again, the heat is intense, making everyone feel very cheap. Moved on again at 1:40. Fired at a Reedbuck on road & missed. Camped at water (Fig Tree) at about 4:30pm. Short trek today but all boys seem rather done. Looks like rain. I am therefore sleeping in tent. Passed post going S. this afternoon.

26 Sep 1902

No rain last night. Started at 5:40am & came on to Nanzila. Camped under the big trees. The Smith's have gone to Nkala. I got my bag of grain from Mission and a boy brought me some milk. Gave policeman Towela 4 extra guards (when we reached camp), for trying to steal the assegai of one ofr my carriers. Away again at 1:40pm & came to good water in vlei, reached by path to left of road about a mile from Nanzila - about 4pm. Camped here. Waggon road is close behind camp at head of vlei. Some boys refused to go grass cutting but as I heard of the affair, I soon put it right by thumping one of them. They have not come far today & had no excuse. Sky looks like rain & I have pitched tent, so I suppose rain won't come. I wish it would, to clear the air which is almost unbearably sultry & oppressive.

27 Sep 1902

Started about 5:40, and, riding ahead, I soon reached Nkala & found Harris at breakfast. On road, I met Mr Smith returning to Nanzila. His child has had measles at Nkala but is getting over it. My boys arrived later and camped on our old ground. Found at Fort from Barbara & Natalie, dated 18 July, also letter from Garbutt and bill - already back from Busby. In after noon, H. & I went down to Mission where we found Chapmans bmuch more inclinjed to be hospitable, & they gave us raspberry vinegar to drink. Also saw Mrs Smith, who is staying here with her son. Found grain here which I had arranged to be sent from Kaundu's. I had ox killed - one Harris owed us in exchange for cow - and, after sending meat to Mission & Fort, I issued to my people, who can have a really big feed tonight. Chapman actually invited me to come & stay with them whenever I can spare the time! Got back to fort, where I sleep - after dark. Have arranged for Harris to keep Jacob in his stable for present as Mr Chapman has horse in our stable and there is now only the old gelding, Peter, in the Fort stable & no stallion, which used to be the objection to our leaving Jacob there before.

28 Sep 1902

Yesterday I told my boys to move on to Mosenena's at sunup & cross river. I remained at Fort & gave H. a hand with his mails etc. - also cut his hair. H. agreed to ride part of way with me & I intended starting at midday. for vsome reason, however, horses were not brought in till nearly 3pm & I had to canter hard to Mosenena's - H. coming more than half way with me. Met mail boys from Mwenga and got a letter from Gielgud. Got boy from Mosenena's to take me across river & sent Jacob back to Fort. H. sent boys to take him. Found my camp made at Kaundu's. In crossing over goods, one boat got swamped and I fear one tin of sugar is practically destroyed - tin leaked and got full of water. Kaundu came to see me, brought meat & also grain which I left here. Got a lot of very fine lemons from Mission Stn.

29 Sep 1902

Wind blew a gale during night & I expected tent to be carried away. Started as usual at 5:30am, & going about 4 hrs, reached water & camped for midday. On again at 1:50pm & came on, through a big grass fire to Siamajoko's, where we arrived before 4pm. Decided to camp here as we require food. Induna was away from home but people brought good supply of meal and potatoes. I drank two lemon squashes with great pleasure as I was very hot & thirsty. Hope to reach camp tomorrow - distance can't be much more than 20 miles. Saw no game today.

30 Sep 1902

Very high wind again during night. Woke at 4:30 & got away at 5am. Came right on past Penkeli's, where I found almost deserted - everybody having gone to somebody's funeral at Sigariatombwi's, to Lion Sprint where we stopped at 9am. On road we met boy bound for Kalomo with dispatches from Gielgud. On again about 1:45 and soon after 4pm reached Camp. Found G. who had returned yesterday from patrol to Moshina's. He looks much pulled down, having had a lot of fever, though well just now. Boys arrived soon after me, and were glad to be finished with their loads. I too am glad to be back in Camp. G. has written to say that, unless he gets direct orders not to, he will go on leave at end of October.

October 1902  

1 Oct 1902

Very hot tonight & I slept badly. Paid off my carriers 4 yds each of broad limbo. G. & I unloaded our stores and put them away. Store looked very thin before the fresh stuff was put in. Several stores were badly knocked about and several bottles broken. All these nice things come just when we both expect to go on leave - they were due here in June or July. In afternoon, people came from Mlunbachi and traded grain. G. has shot a good lot of game since I left & has some good Puku horns.

2 Oct 1902

Again I slept badly & woke tired. G. busy drawing up a scheme suggesting the policing of N.W.R. with Matabele. Coryndon has asked him for his opinion. I hear that N.E.R. have formed a station at Sitanda's & a man named Vernon Reid is A.N.C. in charge. Boys who recently brought letters from Reid started back today with letters from G. Sent off 2 police to summon Sigariatombwi to answer a complaint made against him yesterday. People from Siamakanda came & sold about 300 lbs grain. Tapula, Ndabandaba & people from Mtanti came to visit camp.

3 Oct 1902

During the forenoon, we heard the sound of many people singing & then shortly appeared a crowd of strange natives, from whose midst emerged from a machila, a very thin man with a fez and an enormous red moustache. This was Lanigan O'Keefe, brother of the Kalomo man, & of whom we have heard many a wierd yarn. He seems a good enough sort in his way; he is going to Nkala for loads for Grey under contract. He sleeps here tonight and his people camp near the river. Police came back from Sigariatombwi's with the woman & a man to represent the chief. The whole affair came to nothing - evidently a ridiculous domestic quarrel.

4 Oct 1902

Great change of weather during night. Woke to find cloudy stormy sky, cold wind & soon after, light rain. O'Keefe sent his people to cross river, which occupied them all day. We were very slack & bmost of our time was spent in desultory conversation which occasionally became somewhat argumentative. O'K is an excitable person and is apt to take all one says very seriously. I brought grain from Siamajoko's people who came in. O'K decided to sleep here again as it was too late to move on when all his people had crossed. Gielgud, O'K & I walked down to Kafue in evening. Sent off mail this morning; it contained amongst others, a letter for the Mother.

5 Oct 1902

O'Keefe left camp on his way to Nkala. He has very little ammunition & G. gave him 20 rounds M.H. A boy brought a note from Farrel (T.C.Ld) saying he will arrive tomorrow on his way to Bulawayo. I hunted in the morning going East. Shot a single L. Hartebeeste bull, which had evidently had a shot in shoulder at some previous time. Also shot 2 Duikers. Saw other Hartebeeste & Eland. Developed rather a bad head on returning to camp, & G. too is feeling very seedy.

6 Oct 1902

Just after breakfast, Farrel arrived with two others - Durand & Wynne. Their people camped near River. F. & D. will sleep in camp. Wynne, sick, wants to keep quiet. Farrel is very fit & glad to be on his way home. Durand has a 4 month old leopard - quite tame, a jolly little beast. Unfortunately, it has got its back damaged & can't walk but will probably get better. F. & D. lunched & dined with us, before going across river with carriers. A strange dog has appeared in camp - a horrible cur which snaps at everyone.

7 Oct 1902

About sun-up, Farrel & Durand went off. We had a very quiet day in camp. I patched holes in the green tent which somehow got slightly burnt when I was on way back from Kalomo. G. busy putting new canvas on his camp bed.

8 Oct 1902

Again a quiet day in camp. Mess hut & office being swabbed so we sat in the indaba hut which was much cooler than office. Sent boys to summon people to trade grain. In evening, G. & I went up river in canoe. G. got a shot at the old hippo. Don't know if he hit. Coming back, G. gave me 3 to 1, in socks, mail had not arrived. Found mail had arrived. No official news & only a receipt from Busby for me. Some prints of photos for G. Lots of papers

9 Oct 1902

I had prepared letters for boys to take back to Nkala & then found that boys had left without permission in early morning. Our own mail boys got back from Nkala. Penkeli came in & made a charge - on (?) suspicion - against Siamajoko's people, of having murdered his child about a year ago. He could give no decent excuse for not reporting matter sooner. Spent a dull day in camp - one certainly might just as well be on leave just now as sitting here doing nothing. G. still has slight fever every day. He certainly should get away for a change. High wind all day, making life a misery with clouds of dust.

10 Oct 1902

Boys started with Penkeli to summon Siamajoko & people re murder charge. Mlumbachi & Silolo came in with people and sold grain. Paid off 16 work boys whose time expired today. After breakfast, G. went out for a walk, returning before lunch. He had shot a jackal. I made part of a new mosquito curtain for patrol, a most wearisome and tiring business. In evening, we went fishing down river & nearly had a capsize owing to Bongolo's idiocy. G. caught a small bream. Fish evidently not on food.

11 Oct 1902

Wakened last night by two wolves howling just outside camp. Went out & seeing one in moonlight, was on point of firing, when shot came from police camp & I fired as wolf ran. Found large wolf dead on parade ground. I started early to hunt, going E & round to Uungwi R where I came on herd of L. H. & pig. Shot a L. H. at 150 yds & a pig as they ran. Saw Reedbuck, oribi and a single sable. Back about 11am. G. fishing - caught a tiger fish. In afternoon, quite a flood of arrivals - a native brought a complaint, referred here by D.C. Nkala. Boys came back from Lewis's with Mkalo against whom a charge of murder has been made - also Nyamalaka as a witness. Boys also got back from Siamajoko's with the induna & some of his people, as witnesses in the murder case brought by Penkeli. G. held inquiry, when it seeme possible to get any light on the subject. Later, Penkeli came & told us that he heard on the way here that two girls at Siamajoko's had pushed Penkeli's youngster into the river, where he drowned, and they were afraid to say anything about it. Messenger sent to kraal for other evidence & case is remanded till their arrival.

12 Oct 1902

Writing in office during part of the morning. Bought grain from Muyola's people. The Penkeli-Siamajoko case was again gone into. Everybody seems averse to giving evidence and lying was very thick. the case now stands that two young girls, for some reason unknown, threw P's small son into river. A woman states that she saw them do it but won't say why she did not help the child. She is probably lying. She & another woman are detained pending arrival of the two girls & other witnesses. Two other cases were opened - trivial affairs & people from Msulwi's are summoned to answer.

13 Oct 1902

Prepared mail to start. Wrote only a few lines to the Mother. Mail left at 10 o'clock. G. tried the murder case against Mkolo of Nyamalaka's. The man pleaded guilty of having shot the boy, Tom. He is to be detained a prisoner while case is reported for review & confirmation by H.C. Patrol returned with other witnesses in Penkeli-Siamajoko case. One, a little girl, stated that she saw a small girl named Leshimbika throw the child into the water. She said she never tried to get him out - the cold-blooded little beast! Two women, to whom the affair was told & who concealed it & went at night to hide the body, are kept in camp while we have applied to Harris for arrest of Leshimbika, who lives in N.W.R.

Bought 800 lbs grain.

14 Oct 1902

I had the old roof taken of office & a new one begun. I worked a good deal at my new mosquito net - a tiresome business. In the evening, the boy sent to Kalomo on Sept 30 with letters to Admin asking about arrangements here when G. & I go on leave, returned, saying that Coryndon was gone to Livingstone & letters had been sent on. He brought not even a note from Kalomo!

15 Oct 1902

Boys working at new roof on office - much higher than any of the other roofs. Building nearly finished. I completed mosquito curtain. Muyanga's people brought grain which I traded. I have practically made up my mind to go on leave this month whether we hear from Coryndon or not. If I don't, I forsee a good chance of me being blocked in here for the whole wet weather & probably next dry one too!

16 Oct 1902

Dull day in camp. Boys completed building office roof. Much steeper slope than any of our other roofs. Kapesi, Bulibuli's son came in & denied that any boys from him or Sikomo ran away from O'Keefe caravan. Frightfully hot all day. Therm in shade reads about 109. Mails passed going N to S. Only a letter from Whitton (T.C.L.) for here. In evening, I fired some shots with G.'s .077 to try it. He says he will leave it here if he goes down & does not come back.

17 Oct 1902

Hunted in morning through home guen to Eland ulei where I shot a duiker & saw a reed buck & some oribi. On to Ulungwi R. & went up, & home again by Eland ulei where we picked up Duiker. Home about 11. G. had been busy repairing a Sipala, & buying grain which Simkwayila's people brought. I am reading "Pepy's Diary" & am much interested. Boys are thatching new office roof but can't finish it today. Our mail should have come today.

18 Oct 1902

Nothing to do in camp today. Boys finished thatching office roof. In evening, police & Matebele shot at a target for a bag of tobacco put up by G. Mlangwa won with 9 points out of 15. None of the police hit the target even! Went to garden with G. Only a few carrots remain. Weather desperately hot. Mail not in yet - can't understand why mails are so irregular now.

19 Oct 1902

Today our messenger returned from Nkala but brought no mail, only a letter from Harris which enters into great detail of the amount of biltong he has made, but makes absolutely no mention of mail. Really, this mail has gone past a joke! We at once sent of another messenger to Nkala asking about it. I expect some muddle has been made and our mail sent on to Kasempa's. Harris also sent Lishimbika, the girl for whose arrest we applied. She is a horrid little brute, & though she denies it, there is no doubt she shoved Penkeli's son into the river. In evening, G. & I crossed to island to look at one cow which is sick. Decide to send it to Siapela's for the calf's sake.

20 Oct 1902

Patrol returned from Msulwi's, and some unimportant matters in which they are concerned were gone into. One case, brought by Mokamke (?) remains to be settled tomorrow. Two men, Samabanza & Sentento, brought a disputed succesion case which was settled in latter's favour; the former, originally the rightful heir to disputed indunaship, having voluntarily ceded his rights to Sentento years ago.

Cow brought over from island with its calf, & this evening two boys left to take them to Siapela's. G. preparing to leave tomorrow for Nkala to arrange to store Gov. property there if no-one is left in charge of this camp. Sky looks like rain tonight.

21 Oct 1902

Gielgud, who is feeling very seedy, went off with 10 police and Manguba. The two boys who took cow to Siapela's are to join him at Kaundu's with the private cattle. I wrote & sent by G. a letter to Coryndon saying I have decided to take my leave this month. I wonder how Coryndon will take it! Mkwanka, complainant against Monachemobwe, ran away. I therefore dismissed case & discharged defendant. Kapempa, a chief living between Msulwi's and Sitento's, came in to pay his respects. I had furniture moved back to office from indoba hut as sky looks rather like rain & I think office is cooler. Heat oppressive. Wrote to Macauley - Kasempa's. Sent boy to sleep at G.'s camp. Went down Mwenga with shot gun & got two guinea fowl. To bed early.

22 Oct 1902

Found Mpongwe picking off all the blossoms of the "Stinkblooms". He said he did it to stop the weeds spreading! Began taking stock of Gov. stores to be left. Cannot do it finally till I know what we will take with us. Found a tin of dried potatoes spoilt by water having got in. The stuff had gone (?) except about one third which seems all right. We have had bad luck with our new stores. Made boys build & thatch a small roof for new dove-cot to be put up tomorrow. I had pack saddles taken out and worked over. Went to inspect G.'s room - everything seems right there. About 7pm - thunder & rains came on but did not last long. Very hot all day - slightly cooler in evening after the rain.

23 Oct 1902

Heat last night awful - couldn't sleep. Started at 6 to hunt with Bongolo. Got off a trotting shot at bush buck ram (100 yds) & missed. Worked along between River & Mlumbushi's path & shot a duiker ram. Back about 10. Mail arrived. Letter for G. says wagon has left Falls with balance of our goods. Also other letter about Lewis's farm. Sent off Mrangwa at once with letter for G. Began to build new pigeon cot. Thunder storm, with wind blowing a gale, & slight rain after noon. Norton sent me by mail 100 Egyptian cigarettes; I asked him to get me 200 & charge to my a/e. No home letter for me. Suppose they are all stopped in B'wayo awaiting my arrival - when will that be?

24 Oct 1902

Sent Mkoswana to Penkeli's & Monasiboba's, to tell people who want to go to Bulaweyo with us, to come in. Started at 5:30 am alone to look for bush buck, went down road to river, turned up Mwenga, but saw nothing till after passing Snipe Vlei I got 2 reed buck. Back to breakfast. In the afternoon, I put up the frame work of dove cot - having to undo most of the boys' work of yesterday. Thunder going on most of day, very high wind & apparently heavy rain to S. & E. None however fell in camp, though sky tonight looks very wet. Mkoswana returned in evening & reports that boys will come in tomorrow. He says Monasiboba told him G. proposed to bring the boys with him when he returns, also boys from Sunkwayila & Siamajoko.

25 Oct 1902

Rather uneventful day in Camp. Heavy rain & thunder storm came on about noon, and rain drizzled in a half-hearted sort of way for rest of the day. Thirteen boys came in from Penkeli's volunteering to go to Bulaweyo with us. When one's carriers arrive in camp, it begins to look as if one is really going home! Finished the building of dove cot, only mudding remaining to do. Rain stopped that however. Our fine new office roof leaks like a sieve! Due, no doubt, to some extent to new thatch, but also, I fear, also to bad thatching. Thank goodness I don't expect to be here to see if time & wear improves it! Read with great interest a series of articles in "19th Century" (July & Aug 1902), "The Reader of Plays to the Rescue" by F (?) Lord and a rather bitter opponent Hamilton Fyfe - all about the production of "Monna Vanna" (?). I think Lord scores & (?) Fyfe's article seems inconsequent.

26 Oct 1902

Very little happened this morning. I was busy patching up water bottles in preparation for journey south. Boys mudded the new dove cot. In the afternoon, G. turned up. I did not expect him till tomorrow. He found no-one at the Fort but has arranged to put Gov. stores in Grey's place. He is frailer than ever & has detestation of this country & talks of scarcely anything but his chances of getting out of it. This ground has been travelled so often that I fear my replies must begin to sound familiar. He is fairly fit. Alas! I have to start off for Mumbwa's tomorrow to inspect the areas Lewis & Baragwanath want for their farms - 200 miles added to my walk to Bulaweyo!

27 Oct 1902

This morning, early, 2 boys went of to Lewis asing him to meet me at Mumbwa's on 2 Nov. I got things ready and started off before 3pm & came on to head waters of Mwenga for the night. Most of my carriers are those who returned with G. I have lots of time going out. Coming home I shall hurry like the devil - G. means to have everything ready for an immediate start on my return. I have 10 carriers, Mkoswana, 3 B.N.P., Funkwi & Silomo. Saw herd of pig & single Sable bull but did not get a chance at them.

28 Oct 1902

Scarcely slept 3 hours last night. Away before 6am & soon came on herd of Sable (8) feeding in ulei. I shot a young bull - about 200yds, shot through heart. Managed to take most of the meat. Soon again saw a herd of Hartebeeste with single Sable bull & could have had an easy shot. Reached Sigariatombwi's 9:30 & stopped. S. came down with meal as did some of his people. Women traded meal for meat with my people. Took guide from S. but he proved useless & did not know the short-cut. Took us to Lutayika's & wanted to go to Kapila - right down south. I struck & got Lutayika to give me a guide - he also came himself and we only managed to reach Nangoma R - where G. & I also passed - at 6pm. Wounded a Zebra but could not follow him.

29 Oct 1902

Did not sleep a wink last night. I never remember such a thing happening. At 3am, a boy suddenly turned up with letters from G. Having started yesterday after dinner, letters from Salisbury telling G. to hand district over to me - now N.W.R. - and to go down to B'wayo. G. suggests my coming back but I can't decently do so as I can't stop Lewis. G. wants to go at once but offers to wait till I get back. I wrote to him asking him to wait as I must see him before taking over. Sent Mkoswana off with letters. Also wrote to Coryndon reminding him that he has promised my leave, but now, of course, I must wait until he agrees. D..n! Away at 7am & came on 2 1/2 hours to water - feeling awfully seedy. Rain as we started again at 1:45. We marched till 5:15, losing time by shooting & cutting up a Hartebeeste - which, by the way, had an arrow head sticking in the rump. Stopped at Kasongo's & a frightful storm came up soaking everything. Could scarcely pitch tent in gale & lashing rain. Every boy seemed to lose his head & I went round kicking them into their senses. Gov. food and firewood from kraal. Carriers to sleep in hut.

30 Oct 1902

Everything so wet this morning that we took some time packing up & got away at 6:30. Lutayika turned back home & Kasongo comes on with me as he wants to go to Mumbwa's. Feeling much more fit as I slept well. Near Nansenga's, I shot a water buck. Reached Lukenta's after 10am where I found Wadeson (N. C. Co.) with 450 carriers going to mines. He tells me Lewis is at River & Baragwanath at Broken Hill. Former, however, will probably be at Mumbwa's on 3rd. Decided to stop here as there is no hurry now to reach Mumbwa's. Lukento brought me food. Wadeson is having difficulty in feeding his crowd. A white man paid me a flying visit asking for Gielgud. He wants licence to trade & I told him he would find G. in camp. He immediately rushed off - looks like a Greek Jew! Heard from Wadeson that Coryndon went to B'wayo about 3 weeks ago. What about my leave?

31 Oct 1902

Wadeson dined with me last night & came again to early breakfast. We came on together at about 6am & separated at the junction of paths. I only trekked till about 9:30 as I must put off time on the road or else wait for Lewis at Mumbwa's, which is less pleasant. Gave Wadeson 200 rnds of .303 amm. lent to us by N.C.Co. & took his receipt. On again at 1:40 and soon after 4 reached Mlungushii's (2nd of name) where I camped. Induna came & brought food. Gave him limbo. He says there are a lot of rhino on a river some miles W of his village, but I have no time now to go after them. Sky looks very threatening & thunder is continuous. Arranged for policeman to go with Kasongo tomorrow to Tshaniobi's, with letter to Lewis, asking him to come on at once.

 
November 1902  

1 Nov 1902

It rained a little during night. Sent off policeman & Kasongo to Tshaniobi's with orders to come on to Mumbwa's at once. Took path to left over hills (at 6am) and, passing Tshibono R., missed path to water at the little village & only came to water at 10:30 at Tshibila river - farther down than I meant to strike it. On road missed shot at a bolting bush buck & saw no more game. Saw old rhino spoor. My feet are very sore & blistered in several places; I am wearing a pair of G.'s boots which he lent me as they are larger than mine. They save one place that my own boots hurt but, in return, take it out of me in other places! Moved on before 3 & reached Mumbwa's at 4:30. Here I found Macebo & the policemen sent with him to Silver King. The letter they brough merely said what I knew before, that neither Lewis nor Baragwanath were at home. Found 2 drivers at the camp at Mumbwa's. Pitched my camp about 200 yds away. Mumbwa came with a lot of people & brought meal & a goat. Messengers returned from Tshaniobi's. They brought no letter but say Lewis arrived there this morning & will ride over this evening. Up to 9:30 he had not appeared so I got to bed. Got milk from Kraal. One foot has quite a bad sore. I shall try to walk as little as possible tomorrow.

2 Nov 1902

Lewis did not turn up last night & I remained awaiting him. He came before lunch and had that meal with me. After lunch, he showed me the planting which has already been done - about an acre or less I should say, and the irrigation ditch which is about 1/2 mile long - water returning to river just below Mumbwa's present kraal. Lewis contends that he and Baragwanath both told Coryndon that they wanted farms at Mumbwa's & that he promised them verbally. Heavy rain put end to further inspection. Lewis dined with me & remained talking till 10:00 when he went back to his camp - about 150 yds away & I was glad to go to bed.

3 Nov 1902

Lion roaring away to N.E. Lewis came to breakfast, after which we rode out, he lending me a nice little black stallion. Rode round & L. pointed out the boundaries - roughly, for no flagging is yet done, - I paid particular attention to raals & kaffir lands within area. Lewis disowns all idea of making people pay rent or tax & proposes to be ready to do anything to encourage people to settle there. This, of course, has nothing to do with my present object which is merely to inspect & report on ground. Made notes & rough map for report. L. went to lay out more buildings & I inspected our No. 1 Beacon which is very distinct. Roughly measured off 100 acres with frontage to river but did not peg. Lewis dined with me. I go to bed feeling awfully seedy. Mumbwa again came to see me. He says he is going to build at his new place, a mile up river. I gave him a blanket in return for goat and meal.

4 Nov 1902

Woke feeling very ill, but decided to trek. Got away at 6 after drinking a cup of tea. Said goodbye to Lewis when passing the camp. and got a guide from Mumbwa. Took short path over hill & came straight on to Mlungushi, about 17 miles at 11:15. Could scarcely stand when I got in & slept most of halting time. I had some cocoa only for lunch. Induna came & brought meal & beer. Sent back Mumbwa's guide. Started again at 3pm, feeling very groggy & came on till 5, passing on way some of Wadeson's carriers returning to their homes. Camped about half way to Lukendo's. I had some soup for dinner. I have eaten nothing solid today. Lay down on bed & fell asleep, waking about 10pm, when I turned in. About 24 miles today.

   

5 Nov 1902

Rain came on in night & was still drizzling when we started at 6am. Saw some Roan but did not shoot. Got guide at Lukendo's, and, shooting Hartebeeste on way, came at 10:30 to where G. shot 3 waterbuck on our return from Siboluma's. Stopped for noon. Missed a running shot at Reed buck which I wanted for its horns. About 13 or 14 miles so far today. Feeling much better but still seedy. My inside all wrong. Moved on again at 2:30 - heat very great. From outspan, I had sent on police to tell people at Kasongo's to prepare food, and, on reaching kraal, found it ready. People brought it on to our usual camping place under the hills where I stopped for night soon after 5pm. We walked fast & came I think a good 9 miles, making about 23 today. Am still living on soup etc hoping to bring my unruly inside to order. Hard walking for such light diet!

6 Nov 1902

Woke early & got away at 5:25am. Saw Roan (2), Sable bull & herd of Hartebeeste on road but did not stop to shoot. Went on to Nangoma R. - at 10:30 - a long trek, 16 miles good, probably more. Boys seem pretty fagged but go well. Tsetse thick on road and quite a nuisance at outspan. Made out draft of report on farms at Mumbwa's. Started again at 2pm and came on to Sigariatombwa's keeping a long way south of Monatsherui's. Camped at 5pm. Sigariatombwi brought food. He said he he had heard that I am to be in charge of this country & am to build at Mumbwa's. He expressed wish that I would remain near them. I am feeling much better today, but am still very careful of diet - eating no meat. I think incipient dysentery has been my complaint. Boys very footsore & tired. We have come a good 26 miles today - 10 this afternoon.

7 Nov 1902

Fine night, but slept badly. Started at 6:45 and stopped for noon at 9:30 after passing the hills on Mwenga. Heat intense. Some people from Sigariatombwi's followed me on chance of getting meat, but we saw no game & they turned back here. Hope this may be my last trek on patrol before going on leave. On again about 1pm & heavy storm soon came up & soaked us. Got into camp before 3pm & found G. fit. I have to remain here till relieved & all the news is that Harte Barry of B.N.P. will come here "on his arrival at Kalomo". I really don't think Coryndon has played the game at all. I had his distinct promise & he has not fulfilled it. I feel much inclined to go & risk everything. G. making ready to start tomorrow - & once more I shall be left alone - for the whole rains as likely as not.

8 Nov 1902

Last evening, G. & I made up our accounts and I gave him a cheque fo £80, in settlement to date. This morning G. got ready to start & I made out my report & map of ground at Mumbwa's which he is to forward to Coryndon. All the Matabele go with G., except my own boy, Funkwi, who remains with me - much against his will I can see, but he is very good about it & has made no protest. G. has promised to do all he can to hurry on my leave - both at Kalomo, and by writing to, or trying to see Coryndon who has gone to Bulawayo. Coryndon never seems to be on the spot whyen he is wanted! G. sent his boys off in the morning & followed after lunch. He has left me several things which will be useful - a bath for instance- my own is nearly worn out. I gave Dick a sov. before he left. G. & I cut each others' hair - for the last time I expect. I am very sorry that my connection officially with G. is now at an end. He has been most kind & considerate to me & I have learnt much about native work from him. He has been kind enough to express in a report to Milton, a most flattering opinion of my work. Oh! the disappointment of this further delay in going home! I feel physically sick about it! When will my leave come off? I have only 14 of these useless B.N.P. now to work the district with which simply means that things are practically at a stand still. G. has promised to meet me at Southhampton if possible when I do go home. Heavy rain in the afternoon. G. went off in afternoon & I walked a mile or so with him; felt much inclined to go all the way!

9 Nov 1902

Got camp settled down a bit. There is a youngster here who got badly damaged by our pigs - he was fooling with them. G. has been dressing his wounds & today I took it on. Ran 2 police for duty rifles. Wrote to Worthington who has asked me to go there for Christmas. I devoutly hope however to be on the way home by then. Note came back from G. at Penkelli's - in which he speaks most kindly & charmingly of our comradeship up here. Mayinda came in - he had disregarded a previous summons. It appears he has been sick but he should have sent substitute; I chocked him off. Muloa came in. Am having more grass cut in order to put more on office roof which leaks in spite of big pitch.

10 Nov 1902

Two police started early this morning to summon Siboluma who did not come in when summoned by Monasiboba. They are also to tell people along the road to bring in grain to trade. Dull day in camp. Drizzling rain during great part of day. I am not going out to hunt at present in order to rest my feet which got rather badly blistered on journey to Mumbwa's. Wrote to Norton askinh him to let me know what I owe him for cigarettes and transport of horns to Bulawayo. I expect almost any day to hear that the balance of our stores has reached Nkala, when I shall go down & put them in Grey's store.

11 Nov 1902

Started at 6am to hunt, going up Mwenga and the striking S.E. Came on Warthog & shot one - a sow. Coming home, saw a puff adder going off with a small bird. The snake was too intent on it to notice me & after watching it for some time, I killed it. Back about 11:30. Complaint by Mbuluma of Bundas. Told off 2 police to go tomorrow & summon latter. Monatshianda, Tapula & Ndabandaba visited me. Told M's people to bring grain to trade. Thunder storms.

12 Nov 1902

Boys came from Gielgud (Nkala) with note. Lungsick regulations in force on road & G. has therefore sent back to Siapela's all cattle with him, viz. (Gov.) 4 cows & 1 bullock - also 2 cows & 1 bull belonging to Dick, marked x. Also 1 yearling heifer (Macebo) - right ear slit. He is also sending back 10 carriers. Wrote to Mother, also to O'Keefe & official letters reporting my being in charge here, and necessity of more police. Siampogolo, who gave us such a lot of bother about his wife recently, again reports that she has disappeared & says Nyumba has seized her. Told off 2 police to summon Nyumba.

13 Nov 1902

Sent off mail this morning. This morning, as I was dressing, I heard shot out to S. and came on Capt. Harte Barry & a white N.C.O. arrived on their way to Kalomo. They paid off carriers here & I have sent for fresh ones to go on. Meanwhile, H-B remains here. He seems a very good sort. He is supposed to relieve me but must first go to Kalomo to report the failure of his expedition to get police recruits in N. E. Rhodesia. I shall impress on H-B my anxiety to get away as soon as possible. H-B does not like his N.C.O. to mess with him, so I had him in for a drink after dinner. I went out to try for a buck at sundown but had no luck.

14 Nov 1902

Went out early to hunt but saw nothing & got back about 10:30. No fresh meat in camp. Muyanga came to see me & I gave him Gielgud's old sun shade. Harte Barry suffering from fever but not bad. Police returned in evening from Nyumba accompanied by that chief and the wife of Siampogolo. Sat late talking to Barry.

15 Nov 1902

Meant to hunt but, feeling rather seedy, I had a goat killed instead. Barry's Sikh - Athem Singh - distinguished himself by going on parade unbidden & drilling the boys. Beastly cheek. Barry had him up & fined him 5/-., to the poor man's awful grief. Boys came back with one carrier from Monatshianda's and Tshaba brought 6 - a ridiculous number. I sent Tshaba back with one man to get more. I hope to goodness the other people will manage to raise a decent lot. Lewis & O'Keefe seem to have denuded the whole country. I sent to Muyanga also for boys. In evening, Barry & I walked down to the Kafue. He is feeling very seedy - fever or liver. I had Cpl. Johnson over in evening for a drink.

16 Nov 1902

Corporal Johnson went hunting this morning & Reed Buck ram. Barry very seedy. During day, about 70 boys came in from Muyanga, Tapula, Mlumbushi, Muloa, Sikomo etc. Barry wants 55, which number I engaged, also 4 for camp. Sent others home. Barry means to go on tomorrow. Boy arrived with note from Harris, who has procured a herd boy for donkeys. Siampolega, who has worked with waggon since June therefore came in for his pay. Man from Bunda's whom I summoned re Kaleambo's slave case, came in but plaintif did not appear. Had Johnson over again after dinner.

17 Nov 1902

Barry went of about 6am. He promises to return relieve me as soon as possible. I fear I shall be here however for a month yet. Police returned with Siboluma's son - the chief himself is very sick & had to stop on road. I choked S. off - through his son - for not sending a sub. when summoned before. Tshaba came in with more boys, also 4 more from Monatshianda. These are not wanted now & after lecturing them for having bolted from the police, I dismissed them. Told everybody to bring grain to sell. Very sharp thunder storm & gale at midday. Barry has left some of his own kit here as he expects to be back so soon.

18 Nov 1902

Very severe storm in night. Thunder & lightning seemed to make camp its centre. 1.30 inches rain, including showers yesterday. Nothing exciting in camp. A few people from Sigariatombwi to trade - about 370 lbs. I ran four B.N.P. for parading with dirty rifles. Mail arrived in evening - no letters, only newspapers. I do think I might have got some communication from Adm. Office. Most extraordinary!

19 Nov 1902

Hunted. Starting at 6am, soon saw a 'pala ram, before reaching Snipe Kie. Broke his shoulder & followed for 6 hours study before getting another shot, when I killed him near Mola's island. Back in camp about 1pm & soon developed a bad headache which lasted all day. I kept very quiet in camp. Much annoyed by the noise made by the youngsters who work for the police. Told police that if they can't keep their boys in order, I shall not allow them to have boys. To bed early, feeling very cheap. This afternoon I bought about 370 lbs grain from Monatshianda's.

20 Nov 1902

People from Siamabobo brought grain which I bought. During last night 1.02 inches rain fell & I was glad to find the roof of my hut scarcely leaking at all, & the office not at all. Made new map of district for Harte Barry. Boys rethatched kitchen. Man made application for assistance in recovering his wife who refuses to leave Tshipumba's Kraal. Sent police to summon Tshipumba and the woman. Expect Gielgud is somewhere near the Zambezi now. I wish I were with him! Feeling distinctly down in the mouth!

21 Nov 1902

An unexciting day, though I seemed to be busy. Bought grain from Monatshianda's people. I had Mluluma up, and, as Kabambo had not appeared, dismissed the case. The girl in question stated that she did not know who her parents were as she was given as a slave when a baby. She had lived 4 years with Mluluma & did not want to leave him. Monasiboba came to see me. He had gone with G. as far as Sisungu's. Boys thatched a police hut. Police returned with Tshipumba and the woman, Nkunka. Arranged for the cripple policeman, Lovuna, to start tomorrow for Kalomo, as he seems fit now for the journey.

22 Nov 1902

Lovuna started for Kalomo - rationed to Nkala & with letter asking Harris to see him right on the next stage. He carries rifle, No. 612, bandolier & 5 rounds. People from Sigariatombwi, Mlendema & Tshaba brought grain - abt 520 lbs which I bought. Tshaba also wanted me to buy a young baboon but I refused. Sent for Mlumbuchi and settled Siamajila's case. Ordered his wife to return to him and choked off the two indunas for their inaction. Explained that these small domestic affairs are for the indunas to settle. Went to look for bush buck down the Mwenga in evening; saw fresh spoor but no buck. Muyanga's people brought news of a fresh hippo in the river which comes out on the rocks during the day, and chases boats so that women are afraid to cross. I am apt to be sceptical of these yarns! Wrote to T. G. Davey.

23 Nov 1902

Started about 6 to hunt across Mwenga, got a hopeless shot at bush buck. Saw some pala bolting & followed a long way but did not see them again. Heavy rain came on & we got back to camp about 9, soaked. Sent boy to hunt in afternoon - he fired at a pig & got nothing. People from River Kraals reported the wonderful new hippo again, saying it was lying on the rocks. I went down & got a shot certainly but only a snap as the beast rose for a second. Boys say I hit but the beast seemed none the worse & cleared. In evening, I heard reedbuck behind camp. Boys pointed out what they said was it & I fired in the very dim light and hit - a stump!

24 Nov 1902

Hunted. Away at 6. Struck fresh kudu spoor & followed a long way in awful bush across Mwenga. Boys saw herd but I did not & they cleared, haing our wind. Still followed and came on 2 reed buck. Shot one & hit other in shoulder. Followed blood spoor for miles & then lost it & had to give up. Coming home, shot a duiker, which, however, took me an hour and 4 shots to finish it. Sibomba in camp when I returned (at 1:30pm) to trade grain which I did after lunch - abt 440 lbs. Found box of books in Harte Barry's kit, among which are many I have not read. Read "A Change of Air" by Anthony Hope.

25 Nov 1902

Boys put more thatch on Gov. Store hut. People from Siboluma & Lukendo brought about 250 lbs grain for sale, for which I gave bigger prices than normal as these people have come so far. One of Siboluma's people made complaint on his chief's behalf against Mono, saying latter had enslaved one of S.'s wives. S. is too sick to come in himself. I cut down a pair of breeks for hunting, and, in evening, sowed seeds in garden. Wrote to Gielgud & the Mother. Fine clear night; looks as if rain had let up a bit. Reading Selous's "Travel & Adventure in Africa".

26 Nov 1902

Penkelli came in with his three boys who went to B'wayo in July with the Matabele. These boys complain of being robbed by 2 B.N.P. just S. of Kalomo on their way home. I wrote to Worthington & sent the boys with a letter to report to him. Penkeli also made an extraordinary statement that a woman whom one of H-Barry's boys "bought" at Kasongo's for 4 yds of calico, ran away when H-B was at Penkelli's - two of Kasongo's people having come for her. Penkelli says Barry told him to send after the woman & catch her, and took on one of the men with her as a prisoner. I told Penkelli to release the woman, as, if H-B did this, he was acting quite irregularly. Shall await Barry's return. Prepared to start tomorrow for Nkala.

27 Nov 1902

Started at 6:30, with 6 police, 10 carriers, Funkwi & Silomo. Fired several shots at Hartebeeste (200 yds) in Eland Kei and did nothing. Feeling fevery & therefore shaky. Saw herd of pala & a big herd of Sable but got off no shot. Could easily have got a cow but waited for the bull, who became suspicious & turned off about 200 yds away. Reached Penkelli's soon after 10 & outspanned. Induna brought food. Moved on again at 2:30. Heat rather bad, and some of my carriers, fat with life in Camp, had a regular Turkish bath. Reached river near Siamajoko's after 5 o'c and stopped for night. After seeing my tent pitched, I walked up the river for a mile or so but saw nothing but a duiker at waterhole. I did not shoot. Sent messenger to village & Chief came down with good supply of meal. I calculate that Barry should have reached Kalomo yesterday.

28 Nov 1902

Forgot to mention yesterday that when we had left camp about 6am, I heard 2 shots away to the N. & not far from Camp. I wonder if some white man had arrived. Got away at 5:30 and, some little way beyond Sipelu's, shot a Hartebeeste and badly wounded another which could just slowly keep in front of me. People had followed from Kraal & I sent them after it - they ought easily to get it. Came on till nearly 10am & camped at water, having given what meal I could not carry to people from Sipelu's. On again at 2:30 and reached Kaundu's before sundown. Within 1/2 mile of Kraal, I saw 3 L.H. and shot them all. People from Kraal brought in meat. Induna brought food & milk but says they have no dry grain & are eating new mealies. I must take on food for my people at Nkala & told people to bring mealies tomorrow. Gave away most of meat.

29 Nov 1902

Did not get away till 6:30 as I had to wait for people to bring grain. River has risen a few feet and we had to use boats instead of wading knee deep as G.'s people did. People at Mosenana's seem to be hard up for grain & are eating fruit of the tall palm trees. Met Harte Barry's carriers returning from Kalomo; they say they arrived there 4 days ago. Very hot walking and I reached Fort about noon. Sent my people to River for water before coming up to camp. Found Harris in camp. Some letters for me from Gielgud. Very sorry to hear that the Smiths' (Nanzila) have lost their baby son. Barry has left a prisoner here for me, stating that he induced the wife of one of H-B's wives to desert. I hear from G. that our waggon has only reached Kalomo and our stores are there - if I want anything, I must send carriers to Kalomo for it. Feeling rather tired so remained in camp all day. Harris has lent H-B his horse which should bring him back all the sooner. Durand's young leopard is here, left in Harris's charge. A jolly little beast; its back seems stronger now. Gave Harris the acetyline lamp, calico & stationary. Harris asked me to help him in an expidition against Shaloba & I have agreed if he goes at once.

30 Nov 1902

Did nothing much in camp. Very hot day and I was glad to keep quiet. In evening, Harris & I went to call at Mission & saw the Chapmans, who seemed quite pleased to see one. Saw our donkeys - there are 10 altogether in the kraal, but I am told that 3 belong to Grey. The kraal needs repairing and Harris has arranged for it to be done. Mail arrived from S. Letter for me from O'Keefe, and Carden. Nothing from S. of Kalomo for me. Harris has decided not to undertake expedition against Shaloba at present. Invitation from Smiths, Nanzila, for Christmas. Wrote accepting provisionally and sympathising about death of their child.

December 1902  

1 Dec 1902

Remained in camp. Harris working in office. Frightfully hot on kopje, especially at night. Had man up whom Harte Barry left here as prisoner for inducing woman to leave his cook bag. As I concede the man was perfectly within his rights, I released him

2 Dec 1902

Prepared to return home & had just started when Corporal Johnson arrived from Kalomo - on his way to relieve me - an officer is coming up in a week or so, but Johnson takes over temporarily. Letter from Harte Barry who is not now coming to Mwenga but returns to N. E. Rhodesia to recruit for police. Carden asks me to take down 30 or 40 carriers with grain, but I do not see why I should wait to collect them. Unpacked my kit & will go tomorrow as Harris has been told to come with me to take over Govt. stores. Johnson dined with us this evening. Harris says he will be ready to start after lunch tomorrow.

3 Dec 1902

Harris working in office, but I can see that he won't be ready to start till tomorrow. I am keen to get away but can do no good at my camp till H. gets there, so may as well wait for him. Bokenham of N. C. Co. arrived looking for labour for the Mines. He seems to improve slightly on acquaintance. He sleeps here.

Lungsick has broken out among cattle S. of Kafue, and Swanson is now on Makobela road, with police isolating cattle. I do hope the disease won't spread into the Hook. Harris says he can get away early tomorrow. Heat intense.

4 Dec 1902

After all, we could not get away till after lunch. Harris seemed to have an endless number of things to attend to. Bokenham left after breakfast, making for Sisungu's. We got away about 3:30 & made a bee line through bush to Mosenana's where, arriving after sundown, we found our tents ready pitched. People brought food and boy sent on by H. had shot a reed buck. On way, I got running shot at pig but did not get it, though I thought I hit. Johnson & Harris both stalked & fired at oribi, but did not hit. Harris has brought a machila & looks very comfortable & lazy in it.

5 Dec 1902

Away at 6am & on reaching river, found the boats but no paddles. Managed to get everyone & kit across with poles before paddles, which H. had sent for, arrived. Came on to Siloengi's about 10 and outspanned. People brought manioc, beer & water & I gave them limbo. On again to Sipelu's in afternoon & camped in guen near Kraal. People brought food & water and turned out to clear ground. Arrested boy who deserted from Gielgud & shall take him on with me to camp. Told induna to give me 5 men to carry to Livingstone; they are to turn up in the morning.

6 Dec 1902

Got away at 6am and came right on to Penkelli's. On way, Harris hit a L. Hartebeeste but did not get it. At noon, Penkelli & Monasiboba brought food. Told them to come tomorrow to camp with 8 boys to carry to Kalomo. Sent 2 police this morning to summon carriers from Simkwayila's & Siakwena and also told Siamajoko to send in 5 boys and another Mazai who deserted from Gielgud. At 3 o'c, we moved on again to Kungwi R. & camped for night. Sent on boy to announce our arrival tomorrow with orders to have bath water etc. ready.

7 Dec 1902

Away as usual & came right on to camp. Found everything in order. Three new kids in goat herd. Did some work in preparation for leaving camp. Harris & Johnson have taken over police & seem to be making them up.

8 Dec 1902

Handed over all of Govt. property to Harris. This work occupied all morning. Prepared 5 donkey loads of grain for journey. Released the two women who have been prisoners in connection with child murder at Siamajoko's. Flogged two boys who deserted from Gielgud on way S. & whom I have managed to arrest. 25 boys have come to go to Falls with me as carriers. Cut Johnson's hair. A month today since Gielgud left. Monasibobo came in with Penkelli. Gave M. my old great coat & P., a pair of trousers. Gave Muloa a shirt.

9 Dec 1902

Busy all morning making final preparations for going. Gave Johnson all instructions and information I could think of. Arranged food for road, private kit etc. Gave away a lot of clothes, Johnson being glad to have several things. Told Johnson to pay off boys whose time is up day after tomorrow. Left blanket for Muyanga. Started about 3pm with Harris. I am taking Harte Barry's things down to him. Came on to Uungwi R. & camped. Harris's boy, sent out to hunt, shot an eland so boys had a great feed. Sky looks stormy & there is thunder as we go to bed.

10 Dec 1902

Heavy rain in night but all loads were under cover. Got away at 6am and taking short path to Siamajoko's, camped near kraal at 10am. On way, Harris shot a duiker, which he thought was an oribi! Moved on again at 2:30 & thunder storm soon came up. Trekked till 630pm & camped at Siloengi's. Carriers arrived about an hour later. People from kraal turned out & brought water & firewood. Rain began again about 8 & lasted for some hours but we had got tents up & all loads under cover. In afternoon, Harris shot a reed buck ram.

11 Dec 1902

Everything very wet. Got away about 6am & even met Bokenham (N. C. Co.) hunting for labour for mines. Found boats awaiting us at river & Kaundu came down. I shot 2 duck. Crossed Kafue & outspanned at Mosenana's at 10am. Kaundu sent a present of grain after me. Found 5 donkeys for me here & therefore paid off 5 boys from Penkelli's who have been carrying grain. Saddled up donkeys & got away at 2:40, heat intense. Reached Fort before 6pm but many carriers were an hour behind & 2 of H's boys got in about 10pm! Harris has to go to Tshungu's on Kalomo road & says he will start on Saturday. I think of waiting for him. Found letter from Carden, asking me to hand over any donkeys to him. Nothing from H-B; most irregular!

12 Dec 1902

Harris working in camp, preparing to start tomorrow. I did nothing much and carriers, who seemed rather cooked yesterday, are glad of the rest. In evening, I went down to Mission Stn. and said goodbye to the Chapmans. Got Chapman to shorten the top pole of my tent, as the tent has shrunk and gave me a lot of trouble on Wednesday evening. Left 3 pack saddles for Grey, in return for those taken by Gielgud. Back in camp in time for dinner. Harris has been seedy all day but is feeling better tonight.

13 Dec 1902

Succeeded in getting away at 7am - earlier than I had hoped. Took 5 donkeys and the colt, " Jogajog", who always follows his mother, and left at Mission a gelding with a very bad back - bitten by the stallion, and a mare, heavy in foal. Came on by short path to water, about 8 miles and stopped. One of my donkeys - a mare - is badly fly struck & proves unequal to travelling, even unloaded. Arranged for natives to take her back to Nkala with saddle & blanket. Moved on again at 2pm & arriving by path through Sizungu's village, reached Nanzila & camped under trees. H. & I went up to Mission where the Smiths received us most kindly. We remained to supper and afterwards sat talking till midnight. As before, I drank many quarts of milk! Went back to our camp to bed. A boy brought note today to Harris from Swanson saying that the cattle work is finished & H. need not go down. He intends coming to Mbila's with me tomorrow.

14 Dec 1902

Heavy storm during night & we did not get away till after 6am. Told boys to carry water from Nanzila & we camped in thirst after 3 1/2 hours. H. shot reed buck ewe on road. On again about 2pm & came to Mbila River - final water from Nanzila just now. Boys & donkeys had a drink & we moved on to the Rest Camp, well before sundown. Harris feeling very seedy. He has travelled in machila almost all day, so it cannot be from over exertion. Put donkeys in stable. They are travelling extremely well.

15 Dec 1902

Harris about early, having gone to sleep in his clothes & slept so all night. Said goodbye to him and got away at 6am. Took on water from Shalega River & stopped at spring - now dry - about 11 miles. Shot reed buck ram on way. Saddled up again about 2pm & came on 2 1/2 hours, by short path to Rest Camp at Tshungu's. Found 4 B. N. P. here who presented me with papers containing regulations about Lungsick - I suppose they thought me as a trader, as I am humbly padding the hoof! I hear that all grain, except 2 sacks brought today, have been taken to Kalomo by waggon. Told Cpl. in charge to load up the 8 boys from Muyanga's whom Harris has sent & who have travelled with me. Also told Cpl. to ration them to Kalomo. Saw big herd of L. H. but did not shoot.

16 Dec 1902

Rain came on early & delayed my start till 6:30. Came on to Kamela's at 10 o'clock. Road frightfully muddy & one's boots seemed to gather acres of ground. Kamela came to see me and brought a pot of beer. Hippo flies very bad & donkeys got no peace. On again at 1:45 in stifling heat. Met mail bags going North. Took on water at river - about 5 miles - a and came on till nearly 6, when I camped in thirst. Had great difficulty in putting up tent - the long top pole being again too long for canvas which has shrunk. Had to saw pole with saw in my knife and, being tired, my temper was not of the best! Hope to reach Kalomo tomorrow, but it means a very long trek.

17 Dec 1902

Heavy rain in night. One donkey got loose but I heard him & had him tied up. Got away at 5:30 and, on reaching Tshumbwi's at 9:30, many carriers were so far behind that I decided to outspan. Drizzling rain during first half of walk. Made up my mind to get into Kalomo tonight and started with Funkwi & 2 boys about 1 o'c., leaving Bongolo with carriers to camp half way & come on tomorrow. Frightful storm, rain, thunder & hurricane came up & soaked me, my bed & kit bag. Reached Kalomo about 5 &, at new camp, found Rangeley, the new magistrate, whom I knew as Municipal Police sergeant in B'wayo in '99. Found Worthington at his camp. He puts me up. Swanson's birthday & he produced fizz for dinner. Australian prospector, Cairn???, staying here. Swanson lent me dry clothes.

18 Dec 1902

Lay long in bed. In morning, my people arrived & I sent them to camp about 400 yds from house. After breakfast, borrowed Swanson's horse, "Bee's Wing", and rode to Admin. Camp where I saw H. B. & O'Keefe. H. H. was busy, but in a moments conversation, gave impression that he meant to back out of his promise to insure my going on leave on D. C. pay. Arranged for interview tomorrow. Invitation from Carden to lunch at police mess & went round. Found Carden, Barry & 3 new officers, Lts. Byas, Hamilton & another. Gave Barry his it which I have brought for him. He is leaving tomorrow again for N. E. R. to recruit, Codrington having been ordered by L. Board to give recruits. Carden sick, but came to lunch. Dined with H. H. - also Barry -and rode to bed at Worthington's by moon light.

19 Dec 1902

Again slept late. Rode over to H. H. and had some trouble persuading him to guarantee pay at £500, while I am on leave. Milton has agreed to pay at £240 & H. H. makes up rest, hoping to get Milton to refund. He proposes however to try to get Milton to pay me direct, which scheme I don't like. H. H. agreed to my bringing up a horse & interpreter. Went to B. N. P. to lunch with Harte Barry, H. H. also there. Barry produced Champagne & stout! Asked me to bring out his father's ring - to be sent to me - also to get 2 "swagger sticks" for orderlies. Saw Barry off - also Hamilton who is going to Nkala to relieve Harris, who, I am sorry to hear, is going to be asked to resign for some mysterious reason. Sold my old remaining rations - case Bully Beef (7 lbs Gilliman tea to B. N. P. for £4 -2-6.. Dined with Worthington.

20 Dec 1902

Up about 6 & got my people away at 7am with kit - keeping only my gun boy. W. gave me a letter to Clegg of London Office - who can arrange for Reeves (buyer) to get my stores very cheap! Asked me to loo after 2 guns he has ordered from Rigby. Walked to Adm. Camp and persuaded him to authorise direct payment of balance of pay - he to be refunded by Milton if he agrees. Got draft for £24 for four months rations which were due in June but which have just arrived here. Handed them over, and, on return to W.'s. camp, got receipt from him for balance of 8 months. O'Keefe gave me letter to his folks near Dublin, Swanson to his brother in B'wayo, whom he wants me to call on. Found some Champagne in our stores at W.'s & opened a bottle at lunch. W., Swanson, Murray ??? (late of Grey's - now Gov. cattle inspector) & me at lunch. Got away at 1:30 and came by short path to Rest House, about 15 miles, before 6pm, where I found tent pitched. I am taking 3 leopard skins for Worthington to Rowland Land (?), - one to be given to Clegg. Drizzling rain at night. I should have mentioned that the charge of robbery against 2 B. N. P. brought by Penkelli's boys, has been tried by H. H. in Consular Govt. Police convicted, fined £1, one month hard labour & 25 strokes. Worthington today handed me £3, as compensation for the boys; they were still in camp here & I gave them their money.

21 Dec 1902

Lion roaring during night but did not bother us & I don't think he came close. Rain began in morning & I delayed starting till 6:20 am, when I was too impatient to wait longer. Came on to river, 11am, not far from Maarman's & stopped. On way, met Christian, H. H.'s boy, riding up from Falls. On again at 2:30 and outspanned for night at 5:20 - half an hour having been lost on the way by boys delaying behind. The rain here must have been very heavy as mud on road is bad & water standing in every hollow. Made scherm round donkeys, as camp looks likely for lions. About 22 miles today. In evening, some of my carriers "made medicine" to keep the rains off - we shall see.

22 Dec 1902

Heavy rain during night. I told boys my tent was best medicine. Away at 5:45am & treked till 11 - I should say a good 15 miles. Outspanned shortly before reaching Matetsi River. Just as I finished lunch, a desperate storm came on, giving time only to throw sail over loads. I got on my "Roso" coat & stood the storm out but got very wet. Could hear river rising & roaring in distance, but could not move. Away again at 2, and out across veldt, reaching waggon road at river, which we found waist deep. I had to strip and get donkeys across. Road here very muddy & slippery. At 4, storms approaching all round. I decided to camp & got everything under cover before rain came. Cannot now reach Falls tomorrow as I had hoped. Saw no game.

23 Dec 1902

Away at 5:45 &, in an hour, passed the new rest camp at junction of old road & new. Latter turns off to S. through hills. Drizzling rain all morning, and roads very bad, greasy mud, taking twice the normal time & energy to get along. Found donkey waggon outspanned - natives only with it - belonging to Clarke, who I hear is very ill at Livingston. Passed ox waggon on way N. Supposed to be bringing Mrs. Nell, but driver tells me she remains at Falls. Outspanned at 10:15 and pitched tent as rain still drizzles. On again at 2pm. Met a Dutchman on road, going to the donkey waggon which I saw this morning. He says Falls are 20 miles off, but I think he lies as I soon after saw the spray & I think 15 should see me in. Camped at 5:30, with a very stormy sky, but with dry blankets, thank goodness! About 20 miles today, but with roads heavy, enough to equal 40!

24 Dec 1902

Rain in morning which delayed start till 6:45, when leaving my people, I walked ahead and, missing road to Sykes, reached Norton before 11. Mud awful, especially last mile. Found Norton pretty fit. He gave me dry kit & sent boy to meet my people & take them to Sykes'. Syes came down to lunch and Hardesty - cattle inspector, also turned up. He is living with S. & seems a good sort - a nephew of Lord Strathcona & out & out Canadian. Thompson (De Beer's man), Nell & his wife arrived in afternoon from drift. Went fishing with Sykes & we got into a school of hippo & S. fired many fruitless shots. Back to Sykes for dinner, Norton lending me his horse.

25 Dec 1902

Paid off my carriers who are returning North. Went to see Dobson with whom I found Lucas - again returned to the country. In afternoon, we decorated Sykes's mess hut for dinner & had sports for police, post boys etc. Sykes gave me a great dinner - 8 people in all. Sykes, Norton, Thompson, Dobson, Hardesty, Lucas, Nell & myself. We sat very late talking. Mail arrived today; letter from Gielgud. Milton has promised him a billet in S. Rhodesia. G. expects to sail for home on 7 Jan. My mail cart starts on Sat at 5am & I am sorry to hear that there are 2 other passengers - both Zudenburg's men.

26 Dec 1902

Sykes busy all day. He had a series of bad luck - lost some money, his store keys etc. I got my things ready to start, left donkeys (5), sadles & tent etc for which Sykes gave me a receipt for them. I paid Funkwi cheque for £16, gave Bayolo 30/-, Miaca & 'Nyon, 10/- each, & the 2 youngsters 5/- each. In afternoon, I rode down to Drift where I found Nell, Thompson, Norton etc. Clarke is getting better. Bought a sack of grain, £3. 10, which I gave to my boys for road - also a sov. for extras. Thompson fitted me out with food for journey & gave me an excellent Karoesl of pole cat. Crossed river and put my kit on cart. Paid £18 for fare to B'wayo & £2.13 for overweight luggage. Norton & I slept in Clarke's store.

27 Dec 1902

Crossed river & got away about 5:30am, Norton & Thompson coming to see me off. My two fellow passengers are Lootz & Lottning - both Zudenburg's men & Dutchmen. With two short outspans, we came 28 m to first stables, changed oxen & had supper & travelled all night, 25 miles to 2nd stables, which we reached in morning at sunup. Awful road & my piles are very sore.

28 Dec 1902

Started about 7am with a white driver, William, & after about 25 miles, outspanned for an hour; on again to stables 2m, where we changed spans & came on till sundown, when we stopped for an hour, for food. On again 7 m, & tied up for night.

29 Dec 1902

Slept well & woke refreshed. Came on about 2 miles to Wankies, where I found Dale, A. N. C., whom I have hitherto only known by correspondence. He is most kind & is putting me up. We change coaches here & the new one is very rickety & will probably break down. Went over to township & met Price, the manager, Forester, the doctor, and Dawson, the storeman. Bought a few provisions at the store. Two young men appeared, on their way to ask for work with N. C. Co. I gave them as gloomy account of their chances that they decided to turn back. Price & Forseter came to the N. C. Camp to dine & we afterwards went to native dane which Dale had got up. Dale shot a lion here a few days ago.

30 Dec 1902

Got away about 9 o'c and travelled all day - outspanning once for food. Road very rough & one awful hill to climb - "Misa Hill". Left rocky country behind and reached sand road in early morning. Cart very rickety. Dale provided me with 2 roast fowls & leg of mutton & loaf - a welcome addition to my tinned diet!

31 Dec 1902

Still travelling on sand road. Slow going & all very tired with this night & day work. In afternoon, cart ran against bad stump and wheel smashed. Lootz & Lottning tied the wheel up & we managed to reach next stables - about 7 miles. There they further strengthened wheel & we started after supper. Got away about 1 1/2 miles & through hard driving, wheel smashed to bits! Tied up & prepared to sleep. A dreary way to spend the last night of the year. Boys say lions are very troublesome about here.

1 Jan 1903

Sent boy on to try & get help.

   
   
   
   
   
   
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